Bogging/stalling when coming to a stop, irregular power.

stkjock said:

Post all the actual codes

do you know who’s tune is in the car?

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thailand said:

Mine did that when I had a dirty throttle body. Once cleaned, all was well.
I've also read folks having issues with BBK...if any of the codes were throttle body/motor related.

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Bigmatthew86 said:

I’d start by giving the throttle body & good cleaning & maf too. Might not do a thing but worth a shot. I’d also hit up Lito & get a tune from him. It made a big difference on my car that has only & intake & axle backs. So it could make a gigantic difference on your car with everything it has done.

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partypants said:

I cleaned both last week. When I have the money for a tune, Im taking it to get dyno tuned by a guy near me who did all of my old bosses mustangs.

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RRPD4130 said:

I am slowly writing up my bizarro engine death that occurred July 2021 and required 3 months for my Lincoln dealership to locate a longblock ; nutshell, a 2020 purchase, from the usual local suspects, an OEM Motorcraft over-the-counter replacement Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor. One year later, my engine autopsy evidenced that the recycled Shenzhen Schmoo plastic sensor disintegrated inside the fuel rail itself, during a cold start and subsequent non-start OBD2 diagnostics....every fuel pump cycle/charge pumped the cylinders full of petrol. DRT. Dead Right There.
First symptom was what you describe, precisely.
I have found zero other similar accounts, except for a Corvette forum.
Just a hope. Good luck, my friend.

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Laga said:

You will regret not getting a Lito tune.

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partypants said:

As for the BBK thing, IDK, it kind of came out of nowhere.

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partypants said:

So I left work a couple of weeks ago and my car felt/sounded off. It feels like its choked up, almost as if I short shifted and the car needed to afterfire and clear out, until around ~3000rpm. Then a few days ago, as I pulled into work, I got the wrench light and a code for TPS, and saw a code for an O2 sensor stuck rich. On the way home, my car stalled a few times as I came to a stop at red lights and before I pulled into my driveway. Now, since I bought the car last July Ive thought it was running rich, but never had any issues until recently. I just replaced the TPS, and it still bogs/stalls when I come to a stop, but the code went away before I even installed it.
Car is an 08 GT, with a bunch of mods that the previous owner installed. Borla exhaust, CAI, Ford racing manifold, MSD coil packs, BBK throttle body, headers and its cammed.
Any help would be appreciated.

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whitmanink said:

sounds like vvt solenoid sticking ,,,,, isnt that what causes this condition? the ford mikoloko guy was talking about this in an old video ,

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GlassTop09 said:

Hi OP,
Just so you know, these BBK #1763 62mm TB's can have an issue w\ excess drag or hang in the plastic TB gearing on the actuator side which will show up mostly close to idle position (this is where the butterfly shaft return spring is at its weakest coil tension). I know this because I've owned 1 of these in the past & have witnessed it 1st hand when I was swapping out the TPS & actuator from my OEM TB onto it. It's an easy issue to fix by using some white lithium grease (safe to be used on plastic\nylon gearing) to lube the plastic gearing teeth (I've applied this myself) to eliminate this from happening.
Most of these BBK TB's get assembled w\o any application of some lube on these gears (as the instructions state to do) but I've witnessed the need for it to be used so keep this in mind.

Not saying yours has this particular issue......

If you're still having the car stall when coming to a stop (APP is at full rest--foot off the pedal--sending idle voltage signals to PCM) & you have replaced the TPS sensor, then disconnect the battery to clear out the KAM in PCM then do a throttle idle relearn to allow the PCM to relearn\realign the APP to TPS voltage signals then see if this stops the stalling (what the P2135 DTC code is.....PCM detected a difference of the A\B signal between the 2 which says the APP is out of synch electrically w\ the TPS) then go from there. You also might check the TPS connector terminals for contact\corrosion if you haven't already done so. Butterfly shaft drag\sticking can cause this as well........but I'd only look into this if the idle relearn didn't help. Don't leave out the APP either.........these cars are getting old enough for some APP sensors to start failing.

The P2196 code is due to the B1S1 O2 sensor getting hung momentarily rich (O2 sensor output voltage above 700mV & voltage is not switching lower) when PCM is running lean response tests on the O2 sensor (PCM has cut fuel to lean out exhaust but O2 sensor hasn't responded\reacted from the rich position to the lean exhaust within a specific period of time) thus the DTC.
Before looking at anything else I'd suggest checking the B1S1 O2 sensor to make sure that the sensor itself isn't the cause before looking at fueling because it all starts w\ the O2 sensor's voltage feedback signal to the PCM. Once you determine that the B1S1 O2 sensor is physically good & physically operating properly, then start looking at\for fueling issues.

Just swap sides (B1S1 w\ B2S1) w\ O2 sensors then see if the DTC moves to B2 (P2198 DTC shows up).

Hope this can help you out.

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partypants said:

Im not sure about the throttle body thing, Ill have to look into it. I have been driving my moms car but I did take my car to a family friends shop who couldnt help me because all of the work done to my car, he told me to take it to a tuner because they would know more about what theyre looking at. I took it to a guy my boss has been to for multiple cars (he specializes in Mustangs) who told me everything Im describing sounds like a bad tune. So in the 2-2.5 hours of driving to these places, I still bogged, but not nearly as bad (only down to maybe 600rpm, 500 at worst) and never stalled. My uncles said repeatedly that he thinks I need to get it retuned but also mentioned changing my spark plugs, which Im terrified to do because of the whole spark plug ordeal. I have disconnected the battery but not since doing the TPS. Another thing worth mentioning is that I looked at the data stream on my scanner, and with the car off, foot off the pedal, the throttle percentage sat at 17%. Pedal fully depressed, it went to 75%. If I let off the pedal, it dropped down to ~11%, then jumped back up to rest at 17%. Any thoughts on that?

Also could you point out on a picture where youre telling me to grease? Im not a mechanic and I only know how to do basic stuff so Im not sure what youre telling me to do.

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GlassTop09 said:

1. I read someone has suggested that the tune may be an issue, but if I read your postings correctly that you had none of these issues occurring until recently, then this says to me that your tune isn't the issue & most likely the BBK TB isn't the issue either from a mechanical POV. Your issue is most likely an input signal to PCM issue throwing the PCM output off causing erratic engine operation.......can be several items that need to be checked.
2. Now from the PCM kicking out a P2135 DTC this was indicating a TB to APP synch issue thru PCM. You've replaced the TPS sensor on the BBK TB, is the replacement a MotorCraft OEM part or an aftermarket part? I noted that you typed that this P2135 DTC went away prior you replacing the TPS, correct? If so, then this says to me that this issue is intermittent. Either way, 1st thing to do is to clear KAM & perform an idle relearn to allow the PCM to realign itself to the APP\TPS voltage output to get this out of the way (costs you nothing). The readings you saw thru live data when cycling the APP during KOEO was the TB actuator operation read thru the TPS position......the readings are normal for what you did.....initial TB open angle is around 17%-18% (cold start TB position set by the PCM, not the APP). The rest is the PCM moving the TB according to the APP input.....the TB open % angle followed the APP depressed fully to 75% TB open angle then down to the idle position of 11% when APP was released, then the PCM reset the TB angle back to the cold start TB open position of 17% since you never initiated an engine startup (in KOEO). You'd need to perform the KAM reset\idle relearn w\ new TPS installed 1st then clean TB as needed then verify stall is still present before going further..............
3. The PCM having a P2196 DTC is more of a concern to me. The intermittent TB operating issue could have influenced the B1S1 O2 sensor to momentarily hang rich, but this IMHO is more common to occur during a cold start or coming out of a DFSO (decel fuel shut off) event when the PCM is most likely to be running O2 sensor self check tests (PCM does constantly monitor O2 sensor operations from startup to shutdown). Is this P2196 DTC still showing in PCM? Have you cleared this DTC & checked to see if it has come back? You can test this by swapping both front O2 sensors across banks to see if the DTC moves to the other bank (follows the original B1S1 O2 sensor setting a P2198 DTC) OR if you have a spare known good front NB O2 sensor in hand, use it to replace B1S1 to test if stall goes away. You'd need to verify that the front O2 sensor(s) is working properly before going further (exhaust feedback input controls fueling correction to MAF reading).

You can check other input sensors like the MAF sensor for trash\dirt on sensor element as well & clean as needed then check MAF seal to aftermarket CAI MAF flange for leakage and\or check EVAP CPV operation (check for valve sealing off when PCM signals it closed.....leaking EVAP CPV can cause a vacuum leak thru EVAP canister. This part rarely gets looked at thus is overlooked a lot).

Stuff to consider..............

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Juice said:

I seem to vaguely recall issues like this with the BBK TBs.

I suggest just putting a known good, and unmolested stock TB on. And have your tuner restore stock TB data in the tune (if it was tune required, IDK) No need to go to the tuner, have him email you the updated tune.

This is the quickest way I see to either fix the car or eliminate the TB as the issue.

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