Advice for Hot Rod Cams with a good spring set?

Cars got almost 150k miles on it with the stock valvetrain, any recommendations on replacing the stock springs while im in there to replace the cam? Or would you advise just keeping it stock. Wouldn't mind reving a tad higher with a decent tune afterwards. Hear good things about PAC's but I'm indifferent on what I want to do to be honest. Cheers!

Freshening up the valve springs is not really a bad idea if your going to run more aggressive cams. That said you should match the springs to the cams you install. I believe the Hot Rod cams are made for stock springs so no need to go heavier or make room for more lift. Plus! You need to pull the heads to change the springs.

The valve springs can be replaced without pulling the heads. Just push enough rope into each spark plug hole to ensure that the valves don't drop into the cylinder. Otherwise you WILL be pulling the heads

Compressed air in cylinder to change valve springs.

with 150k miles, I'd spend some money on the roller followers and the lash adjusters.

I used compressed air when I attempted to change valve springs on the car. No problem holding the valve closed with air but some of the valve stem keepers are almost impossible to put back in place. You have to do it 24 times, good luck with that!

RED09GT said:

with 150k miles, I'd spend some money on the roller followers and the lash adjusters.

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And phasers, chains, crank sprocket, tensioners, guides and maybe an oil pump. There a kit for that and one for the followers and adjusters.

Midlife Crises said:

I used compressed air when I attempted to change valve springs on the car. No problem holding the valve closed with air but some of the valve stem keepers are almost impossible to put back in place. You have to do it 24 times, good luck with that!

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I use a magnet or a magnetized flat screw driver to place the keeper and a drop of 30 wt oil on the stem. It makes it easy to position the keeper and the oil holds it onto the stem.

RED09GT said:

30 wt oil

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Ya, I used a dab of grease to hold the keeper when I did it on the bench. Slipped a set of new valve seals on while I was there.

Midlife Crises said:

And phasers, chains, crank sprocket, tensioners, guides and maybe an oil pump. There a kit for that and one for the followers and adjusters.

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https://performanceparts.ford.com/part/M-6529-3V
https://performanceparts.ford.com/part/M-6004-463V

At 150k miles I'd definitely replace the oil pump and the valve stem oil seals together with the other pieces shown above.
Since the oil pan will be off anyway, I'd also replace all of the rod bearings and at least inspect the main bearings. The engine would then be good for another 150k miles.

This escalated quickly...
I'd leave the bottom end bearings. No way I'd do those with the motor in the car. That belongs in a clean space with the motor out of the car. Debris from any of the other parts swapped will be caught in the oil filter but get 1 piece of grit or dirt under a bearing and you'll be pulling the motor out for a full rebuild.

Appreciate the responses. I'm just concerned about blowing up the valvetrain as I've seen some horror vids of people swapping out cams and rocker arms break or risk getting terrible valve float at high RPM (Even when not having to swap springs). I maintain this little car well with full synthetic RP HMX and dump at 5k. Previous owners....hard to say how they took care of it.

If this helps, I did a similar project on my '06. Hot Rod cams, new OEM timing set/followers/lash adjusters, VCT solenoids, and HV oil pump. The best advice I can give you is to A, get the special tools needed for the job (less than $100), B, take your time, and C, follow the cam instructions to the letter.

Rick Simons said:

If this helps, I did a similar project on my '06. Hot Rod cams, new OEM timing set/followers/lash adjusters, VCT solenoids, and HV oil pump. The best advice I can give you is to A, get the special tools needed for the job (less than $100), B, take your time, and C, follow the cam instructions to the letter.

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Ive seen people not have to use the rocker arm tool (valve spring compressor) on these 3Vs and people have had success, I do however have the cam positioning tool and wedge which should be enough. On a budget as is, but I suppose who wants to break things. My goal is to just wait 1000k to break them in before hard testing.

Deathstang II said:

Ive seen people not have to use the rocker arm tool (valve spring compressor) on these 3Vs and people have had success, I do however have the cam positioning tool and wedge which should be enough. On a budget as is, but I suppose who wants to break things. My goal is to just wait 1000k to break them in before hard testing.

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I'd recommend getting the tool, and getting a good brand at that. I got a knock off from amazon when I did mine and the tool was garbage. Ended up having to get the OTC branded one, and it worked as it should.

Your going to have the front cover off when replacing the timing set so buy the tool that holds the phaser gears in place while tightening the phaser bolt. It bolts to the head and puts no strain on the chains while preventing the gear from moving.

Midlife Crises said:

Your going to have the front cover off when replacing the timing set so buy the tool that holds the phaser gears in place while tightening the phaser bolt. It bolts to the head and puts no strain on the chains while preventing the gear from moving.

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I dont have to remove the timing cover to remove the cams thankfully.