2006 4.0 V6 ran good...

richie9mt

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...So I decided to fix it... :(

I took off the throttle body and cleaned the sludge off with Throttle Body Cleaner, cleaned the MAF sensor with MAF sensor cleaner, and took off the accelerator pedal and checked/wiped off the attenuator contacts.

Put everything back together, and got these error codes...and it's in limp-home mode now...

P1000-FF; P2104-FF; P2123-FF; P2129-FF; P2132-FF; P2104-C

I've read that three of these are module codes and the other three are throttle body and pedal DTC's...

Nothing was replaced, nothing looked bad. Car ran fine until I just had to clean some of the parts that were suggested in other threads (88,000 miles). The TB position sensor is the old style round type, which from threads I've read here is failure-prone.

I'm using ForScan to read my codes, but even though there shouldn't be anything wrong with the TB/pedal (other than being clean), I can't delete the codes.

So...besides being stupid, is there anything I've done that should have bricked the car???

Thanks for any comments! ;)
 

Iceman62

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When you cleaned everything, did you wipe areas w/ rags/towels/cloths? Sometimes little pieces in wrong places can cause havoc.
 

86GT351

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P1000 Incomplete Testing
P2123 TPS Sensor Code
P2129 TPS Sensor Code
P2132 Throttle Body Code
P2104 Throttle Actuator
P2014 Intake Manifold Runner Control

Without being able to test, I am going to say you have a bad Throttle body. Replace the complete assembly. With the P2014 you might have a bad intake manifold also. The runner controls break. Codes won't clear if the failed component is still on the vehicle.
 

richie9mt

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P1000 Incomplete Testing
P2123 TPS Sensor Code
P2129 TPS Sensor Code
P2132 Throttle Body Code
P2104 Throttle Actuator
P2014 Intake Manifold Runner Control

Without being able to test, I am going to say you have a bad Throttle body. Replace the complete assembly. With the P2014 you might have a bad intake manifold also. The runner controls break. Codes won't clear if the failed component is still on the vehicle.

No P2014 code; two different P2104 codes.

When you cleaned everything, did you wipe areas w/ rags/towels/cloths? Sometimes little pieces in wrong places can cause havoc.

No, just a bore cleaning brush and the spray can cleaners.

If it needs a PCM I have a good used one for you. Check for sale ads.

Interesting. You mentioned that it would need re-programming. What would that require? Besides a trip to the Ford dealer... :(
 
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86GT351

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Interesting. You mentioned that it would need re-programming. What would that require? Besides a trip to the Ford dealer... :(
When a PCM is replaced, the vehicle needs to have the appropriate program for the VIN. There are aftermarket people that can do the tune. However............
 

richie9mt

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Codes won't clear if the failed component is still on the vehicle.

If the part is replaced with a good one, and fixes the overall problem, will the ECU clear the codes by itself???

I'm not at all familiar with these ECUs...or any, for that matter...

BTW, do I need the Standard or Extended version of ForScan to clear codes manually??? I Just have the downloaded version 2.3.48...
 

Juice

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If the part is replaced with a good one, and fixes the overall problem, will the ECU clear the codes by itself???

I'm not at all familiar with these ECUs...or any, for that matter...

BTW, do I need the Standard or Extended version of ForScan to clear codes manually??? I Just have the downloaded version 2.3.48...

Repair, than clear codes with scan tool. Forscan, Torque, a hand held tuner. This will turn off the check engine light. (and if the light comes back on, you know repair is not complete)

If you are OK with the CEL on for a while, yes, the computer should clear the codes...eventually. But this may take a few drives/miles.
 

richie9mt

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Repair, than clear codes with scan tool. Forscan, Torque, a hand held tuner. This will turn off the check engine light. (and if the light comes back on, you know repair is not complete)

Good to know; Thanks!

I neglected to mention that I have two warning lights; the orange 'engine' icon light in the tach pod, and an orange 'wrench' icon in the speedo pod. Is there any special significance to the 'wrench' icon warning light???
 

Oliver

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I got the "orange wrench" when I installed my FRP intake....... drives perfectly fine with no noticeable effects in performance or MPG...... the light annoys me but I can live with it rather than go to the monkey boys at the ford zoo.
If I'm making a mistake , please advise, but otherwise it's good.
 

Juice

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I got the "orange wrench" when I installed my FRP intake....... drives perfectly fine with no noticeable effects in performance or MPG...... the light annoys me but I can live with it rather than go to the monkey boys at the ford zoo.
If I'm making a mistake , please advise, but otherwise it's good.

That does not make any sense. Wrench light = Limp mode.
Atleast stop at an autozone and get the codes read. They will not reset it, but you will know why the light is on. Something tells me it isnt the limp mode light. Sounds more like a low fluid light. May just want to check your owners manual.
 

richie9mt

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May just want to check your owners manual.

Juice, that is the best advice I've read here yet. (A bit off-topic, but related). You advised the poster to read the owners manual, in another thread on idle relearn. I was skeptical, but then I was amazed to see it in print in my 2006 Owners Manual - under "Idle Trim". I had searched in the Shop Manual and not found it. And, of course, it's different from the other relearn procedures posted here and on other sites.

I'll go with the Owners Manual. And the orange wrench is defined as "Electronic Throttle Control. Illuminates when the engine has defaulted to a Limp-Home operation. Report the fault to a dealer at the earliest opportunity".

There should be a RTFM icon here somewhere.."Duh" to me! :)
 

86GT351

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Juice, that is the best advice I've read here yet. (A bit off-topic, but related). You advised the poster to read the owners manual, in another thread on idle relearn. I was skeptical, but then I was amazed to see it in print in my 2006 Owners Manual - under "Idle Trim". I had searched in the Shop Manual and not found it. And, of course, it's different from the other relearn procedures posted here and on other sites.

I'll go with the Owners Manual. And the orange wrench is defined as "Electronic Throttle Control. Illuminates when the engine has defaulted to a Limp-Home operation. Report the fault to a dealer at the earliest opportunity".

There should be a RTFM icon here somewhere.."Duh" to me! :)
Limp-Home Operation is a common issue with a Throttle Body. Replace the Throttle Body. Nobody for sure is going to be able to tell you for sure what is causing the issue with your car without proper testing.
 

Juice

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I was referring to Oliver's post. Has wrench light, but car is running fine. This makes no sense.
 

richie9mt

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OK, new TP sensor installed, idle learn process complete. Car runs again! No orange wrench; no orange engine icon! No DTC codes, except the P1000 for an incomplete diagnostic test (before & after pic attached). I don't know what that is, I'll have to look it up/Google it.

I have no idea why just cleaning the TB should kill the TB sensor. Maybe the spray cleaner got into the sensor??? Maybe jiggling the TB around while cleaning it did something??? It was the old-style round sensor, new one is the square style.

Anyway, I took it out for 11 miles and it seems back to normal. :)

A big Thank You! to all you guys who posted great advice/comments/help and got me through this stressful time. I know nothing about electronics or auto electronic systems. This was a trip into the unknown for me. So, Thanks! again! :Dbefore-after.jpg
 
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Juice

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P1000 = not ready for emission test. Ignore, it will go away. This code always shows up after clearing codes (clears OBD tests also) or after a battery disconnect.
 

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