Flywheel help

GlassTop09

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What's to stop dirt, dust, and misc debris from getting sucked into the airstream ? Or is it even a potential issue.
It is no more of an issue w\ this Exedy flywheel as w\ any other 1 as the 3650 Tremec's bellhousing has 2 slots cut in it......1 is on bottom between the housing & separator plate & the other 1 is located at top of bellhousing also between the housing & separator plate......these 2 slots are there to provide air exchange within the bell housing for cooling purposes using air convection properties. The Exedy flywheel center section design just improves the air exchange thru the center section of clutch components thus it doesn't create any extra airflow from bottom BH vent to top BH vent thus still operates as originally designed.
 

pass1over

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After having to go to some extreme measures to remove a failed pilot bearing from a Kellogg crankshaft, I'd be inclined to spend the extra $15 for the high load bearing.
I think the one that failed was a parts store jobber due to a availability at the time.

both of them are FoMoCo parts, but the High Load one says it's .... This will be designed more for high-performance applications.

I mean, according to whom? Neither are that expensive, but the High Load one is double the price. Does the high load refer to a stiffer or higher load clutch compared to oem?
 

RED09GT

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I'd only be guessing but Ford Racing aren't one of those manufacturers that puts out snake oil products so they probably have found a need for it. My guess that it would be for the built motor power adder and big power shelby cars.
I had never seen a pilot bearing fail like mine did but my car is also the most powerful car I'd ever worked on as well so I really don't know whether the high load one is worth it or not. What I do know was removing the destroyed one sucked. I also had the benefit of having the crankshaft out of the motor to remove it rather than having to do it while on my back under the car.
 

pass1over

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That sure sounds like a nightmare. I think I'll go with the high pressure one. Like I said, they're both relatively cheap
Luckily I have a 2 post at my house to help out with projects like this.
 

pass1over

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So I ended up with this pile of parts:

exedy mach 500 clutch
exedy lightweight flywheel
mcleod stainless clutch hose w/bleeder
OEM throwout bearing/slave
ARP flywheel bolts
FoMoCo high pressure pilot bearing
FoMoCo PP bolts and dowel pins

Only spent $694 for all of this, all brand new parts. Not a bad deal. Can't wait to feel the difference.
 

pass1over

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just want to double check my torque specs,

I have the flywheel torque specs according to ARP, but the only thing I can find is that the pressure plate bolts are only 12-24 ft/lbs? Is that correct?
 

JC SSP

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Old clutch disc looks like its almost down to the rivets. Pressure plate has the normal heat score on its face, but you definitely got you money's worth out of that one. Yes 12-24ft lbs. (not inch lbs!) is the norm.

I suggest some type of lock-tight on all those bolts!

Enjoy your ride buddy!

PS Nice blue Bully in your sig.
 

pass1over

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Got it all in and cars back on the road. Feels a lot better than the stock clutch for sure. However, the bite point is like right off the floor, is there any way to adjust this?
Is there maybe a little bit of air left in the line still that I need to get out? I'm going to try and bleed it again tomorrow.

Other issue I seem to be having is my mgw shifter will not push down to go into reverse anymore. I can get it to go into reverse, but it doesn't push down. The transmission got accidentally bumped while it was on the stand and they both fell over. I don't see any obvious signs of damage. But I guess something must have gotten bent.
It is supposed to push down to go into reverse, correct? Or am I just imagining this?
 
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RED09GT

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There is likely air still in the system if it disengages close to the floor. Keep pumping the pedal.
 

pass1over

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There is likely air still in the system if it disengages close to the floor. Keep pumping the pedal.

I bench bled the slave before install, and used the bleeder fitting where the clutch hose attaches to the slave.
Just keep pumping clutch with the reservoir cap off? Any certain way to do it?
 

pass1over

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Did you measure the preload on the throwout bearing before you put the tranny in? If the problem is air in the line it will work it’s way out with use.

No, I bled it, capped it and installed it. It's an OEM slave, there were no shims or anything, they looked identical.
 

GlassTop09

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Got it all in and cars back on the road. Feels a lot better than the stock clutch for sure. However, the bite point is like right off the floor, is there any way to adjust this?
Is there maybe a little bit of air left in the line still that I need to get out? I'm going to try and bleed it again tomorrow.

Other issue I seem to be having is my mgw shifter will not push down to go into reverse anymore. I can get it to go into reverse, but it doesn't push down. The transmission got accidentally bumped while it was on the stand and they both fell over. I don't see any obvious signs of damage. But I guess something must have gotten bent.
It is supposed to push down to go into reverse, correct? Or am I just imagining this?
On the Exedy Mach series clutch kits, these are designed by Exedy to provide a low pedal engagement since these are part of Exedy’s performance designs, as opposed to their OE replacement so yes the pedal engagement will be low…..even if fully bled. They state this in their brochures for their performance line of clutches.

If this isn’t desirable then you’ll need to shim the TOB to get the pedal height you want.
 

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