Bearing Sizes and Forged Short Block

Andrew06GT · May 18, 2025

Just to preface this post, this is my first time sizing bearings to a short block without just buying a rotating assembly or having a machine shop do it, so I'm learning but have done some research.

I have a 2010 3V block with Manley H-Beam Rods (Part #14042R-8), an Eagle 4340 Crank (Part #CRS-428135435933), and Wiseco Professional Pistons (Part #K0086XS).

All of the specs on these are a replacement to stock other than some changes to compression ratio and strength of course.

I know that Eagle 4340 Forged Cranks have oversized fillets that require certain rod bearings to fit properly, I called them and they recommended me to Clevite 1442HN bearings. After doing some math, either their bearing that they recommended me does not work or I'm doing something wrong.

Here are the specs: https://www.beefcakeracing.com/clev...6DNdlMR5e_0RI4BFMoaRhhphagFwzcs7TWPurJXVaxKZf

From my calculations of the crank and rods I already have: (Rod Big End Bore - Rod Journal Dia)/2 gives the allowable thickness of the bearing and how much oil clearance you should have. I know that a good rule of thumb is every inch of rod journal diameter you need 0.001in of clearance so I would need a maximum of 0.002in preferably. With these bearings and rotating assembly setup I get around 0.0005in of clearance which I know can't be right.

Does anyone know what bearing to use or what they have used with an Eagle Forged Crank. Surely I can't be the first to do this and I can not find anything anywhere.

Thanks!

Midlife Crises · May 18, 2025

Hi Andrew. I am running the same choice of parts you listed. Manley H Beam rods on an Eagle forged crank with Wiseco forged pistons. All purchased as a balanced kit I installed in my 2010 Aluminum block. I don’t find my scribble sheet of tolerances and clearances but I did find the box tops and tech sheets from all the parts I used. The rod bearings I used are indeed Clevite H series narrowed standard size part number CB-1442HN. The Main Bearings are also the same H series standard size and included the half circle thrust bearing insert. I checked one rod and one main (dry) with plastic-gauge at assembly. I think the clearance was around 0.002” but like I said, I don’t find my note sheet.

Andrew06GT · May 18, 2025

Midlife Crises said:
Hi Andrew. I am running the same choice of parts you listed. Manley H Beam rods on an Eagle forged crank with Wiseco forged pistons. All purchased as a balanced kit I installed in my 2010 Aluminum block. I don’t find my scribble sheet of tolerances and clearances but I did find the box tops and tech sheets from all the parts I used. The rod bearings I used are indeed Clevite H series narrowed standard size part number CB-1442HN. The Main Bearings are also the same H series standard size and included the half circle thrust bearing insert. I checked one rod and one main (dry) with plastic-gauge at assembly. I think the clearance was around 0.002” but like I said, I don’t find my note sheet.

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Perfect, I think I am just going to order them and then plastigage it to confirm, just weird that the numbers don't add up for the bearings.

Midlife Crises · May 18, 2025

Andrew06GT said:
Perfect, I think I am just going to order them and then plastigage it to confirm, just weird that the numbers don't add up for the bearings.

If you haven’t done this before note that the bearings are clearanced on one side and fit into the rods only one way. This will create 4 left and 4 right clearanced rods. Good to know before mounting the pistons! I had to turn one around so look ahead. Also remember to check the actual clearance with plastigage while the bearings are clean and dry. No oil to take up space. I used ARP fasteners and torque specs on the rods, mains, side bolts and heads without the slightest problem. Have fun! :driver:

Andrew06GT · May 26, 2025

Midlife Crises said:
If you haven’t done this before note that the bearings are clearanced on one side and fit into the rods only one way. This will create 4 left and 4 right clearanced rods. Good to know before mounting the pistons! I had to turn one around so look ahead. Also remember to check the actual clearance with plastigage while the bearings are clean and dry. No oil to take up space. I used ARP fasteners and torque specs on the rods, mains, side bolts and heads without the slightest problem. Have fun!

Awesome I'll make sure to pair them up correctly because I did not know that. They just came in the mail so I'm about to bolt everything up and see if they create enough clearance! Also, I went with every ARP bolt for the 3V that they offer so I will make sure to follow their recommended procedure.

Midlife Crises · May 26, 2025

My Eagle crank came with deeply recessed threads in the snout. I had to use a longer bolt to comfortably engage the threads holding the damper on. The stock length bolt would not work.

Zal3v · Apr 16, 2026

Midlife Crises said:
My Eagle crank came with deeply recessed threads in the snout. I had to use a longer bolt to comfortably engage the threads holding the damper on. The stock length bolt would not work.

Just curious, is your Eagle crank a stroker or stock stroke? Were you using the stock balancer? Anyhow, what bolt did you end up using, was it the ARP 206-1001 one?
Thanks

Midlife Crises · Apr 16, 2026

The Eagle crank is stock stroke. I used a stock diameter, certified damper from ATI. I don’t remember the size of the bolt but I’m sure I ordered it from Belmetric on line. I think it was grade 10.9 or 12.9 in metric speak. I am currently running an innovators west overdrive damper and it took the same bolt.

Zal3v · Apr 20, 2026

Midlife Crises said:
The Eagle crank is stock stroke. I used a stock diameter, certified damper from ATI. I don’t remember the size of the bolt but I’m sure I ordered it from Belmetric on line. I think it was grade 10.9 or 12.9 in metric speak. I am currently running an innovators west overdrive damper and it took the same bolt.

Thanks, I actually called Eagle and they told me that their crank was designed to use the OEM size bolt. I was told that some people were experiencing bolt length issues with the aftermarket dampers but I don’t know for sure. The reason I was inquiring is that I plan on running an Eagle stock stroke crank soon on my build. Other than the bolt issue, anything else you can say about the crank itself? Any thing positive?

Midlife Crises · Apr 21, 2026

I had no other issues with the Eagle crank. I think it is a quality product. The threads in the snout are recessed 5/8 of an inch or so. The adapter for my damper install tool would not reach the threads so i simply used a long stud, nut and heavy washer to pull the damper on. I attempted to use the ARP replacement for the damper bolt but it did not engage enough threads to trust.
Simple to check for yourself to be sure. I have no idea why they would recess the threads so deeply.

Zal3v · Apr 23, 2026

Andrew06GT said:
Professional

Midlife Crises said:

I had no other issues with the Eagle crank. I think it is a quality product. The threads in the snout are recessed 5/8 of an inch or so. The adapter for my damper install tool would not reach the threads so i simply used a long stud, nut and heavy washer to pull the damper on. I attempted to use the ARP replacement for the damper bolt but it did not engage enough threads to trust.
Simple to check for yourself to be sure. I have no idea why they would recess the threads so deeply.

Click to expand...

You wanna know something else? I saw two part numbers for the Eagle crank,
CRS-428135435933
CRS-428135545933
One is a stock 3.543” stroke and the other is a 3.554” stroke.
They both accept stock length rods and the Eagle rep couldn’t tell me the reason for the extra stroke but said either one would be fine for a near stock stroke setup. Any thoughts on this?

Juice · Apr 23, 2026

Zal3v said:
You wanna know something else? I saw two part numbers for the Eagle crank,
CRS-428135435933
CRS-428135545933
One is a stock 3.543” stroke and the other is a 3.554” stroke.
They both accept stock length rods and the Eagle rep couldn’t tell me the reason for the extra stroke but said either one would be fine for a near stock stroke setup. Any thoughts on this?

.011 stroke difference. Pretty smal diff.

Zal3v · Apr 23, 2026

Juice said:
.011 stroke difference. Pretty smal diff.

Definitely, but was curious as to why they did that. The funny thing is, the Eagle rep couldn’t answer me on that as well. He just said could go with either, whatever is in stock lol

Dino Dino Bambino · Apr 24, 2026

Zal3v said:
You wanna know something else? I saw two part numbers for the Eagle crank,
CRS-428135435933
CRS-428135545933
One is a stock 3.543” stroke and the other is a 3.554” stroke.
They both accept stock length rods and the Eagle rep couldn’t tell me the reason for the extra stroke but said either one would be fine for a near stock stroke setup. Any thoughts on this?

The reason could be that some of the aftermarket pistons are shorter than the stock 1.220" in order to keep the deck clearance close to stock.

JC SSP · Apr 24, 2026

Dino that makes perfect sense, but why didn't the rep at Eagle know that?

Dino Dino Bambino · Apr 24, 2026

JC SSP said:
Dino that makes perfect sense, but why didn't the rep at Eagle know that?

He isn't as clever as I am.

Juice · Apr 24, 2026

The only issue with that is, they make pistons to fit the specs (a lot easier) than grind cranks to fit pistons.
My bet is Eagle ground a batch slightly out of spec.

Zal3v · Apr 24, 2026

Juice said:
The only issue with that is, they make pistons to fit the specs (a lot easier) than grind cranks to fit pistons.
My bet is Eagle ground a batch slightly out of spec.

Honestly, that wouldn’t surprise me. It really doesn’t make much sense to have a stroke slightly off like that. Why didn’t Manley or any other aftermarket crank make one with those specs? Seems like your answer is sound.

Zal3v · May 15, 2026

Midlife Crises said:
Hi Andrew. I am running the same choice of parts you listed. Manley H Beam rods on an Eagle forged crank with Wiseco forged pistons. All purchased as a balanced kit I installed in my 2010 Aluminum block. I don’t find my scribble sheet of tolerances and clearances but I did find the box tops and tech sheets from all the parts I used. The rod bearings I used are indeed Clevite H series narrowed standard size part number CB-1442HN. The Main Bearings are also the same H series standard size and included the half circle thrust bearing insert. I checked one rod and one main (dry) with plastic-gauge at assembly. I think the clearance was around 0.002” but like I said, I don’t find my note sheet.

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Midlife Crises said:
Was this the part number of your mains? CLEVITE MS2259H

Midlife Crises · May 19, 2026

Sorry. Took me a while to find the old box tops.
Yes. Clevite Chamfered 4.6 Main Bearings #MS2259H

Bearing Sizes and Forged Short Block

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