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FYI, I datalog on a Mac running windows 7. I have a second partition installed so I can dual boot Windows and MacOS. Its pretty easy to set up and there should be quite a few guides online.

All gone!

Yep! I still have it. I see you're in MI. I'm in SE Michigan, so if you're nearby, we can always meet up.

This is what I come up with: DR3Z-63423A42-CA PM me your VIN and I can filter it for your specific car.

CJ CAI still available, open to offers.

I need to do this as well since my core ices up too. I didn’t even think about using the pressure switch to cut off the compressor. I’ll see if I can get it wired up in a few weeks.

Good luck!

IIRC = if I recall correctly. So yeah, the tune will need to be changed. Pretty sure the A/C request is an input from the HVAC module sent to the smart junction box, which then sends an A/C request over CAN since there is no direct A/C input from the HVAC module or SJB to the PCM.

Yes, the tune needs to be changed in order for it to work. IIRC, the master pressure switch needs to be enabled in the tune. Mine is wired just as yours is.

No problem! FYI, I checked out HP Tuners and all these DTCs can be disabled in HPT. I’m not sure if Manuel can edit a file in HPT and port it over to SCT with the DTCs shut off, but the ability to disable them in some form or another does exist.

You'll need a small light bulb, usually a 9004 or something similar will work. You'll supply power along the circuit that you want to test to one side of the bulb and ground to the other side of the bulb. If the bulb lights brightly, then you're probably getting 10V+. Bright bulbs are usually an...

You're welcome? Anyways, I'm still waiting to hear back from a couple guys at work to see if they have some insight into this. My gut feeling is that this is all calibration based because your PCM is looking for things it shouldn't have (manual car switch inputs for the cruise control) and is...

I don’t think it is related to the problem and you may be going down a rabbit hole you don’t need to. I would check it out, but don’t spend a lot of time on it.

It’s just to provide 12V switched power to the MAF. Since you have an auto car, your power is supplied through the FP relay.

Yeah, that is very weird. I checked both the 2005 and 2006 diagrams and there is no ISP-R. Your car should not be looking for that at all. Let me do some more digging. At least the CPP stuff makes sense now. If Manuel can’t shut those DTCs off with SCT, it might be able to be done with HP...

CPP is clutch pedal position. Your PCM is looking for a switch that should not exist on your car. Looking at PPT B in 2006 PC/ED shows that if you have P0689, you should jump straight to verifying voltage on the ISP-R circuit. Since you are having starting issues, I would assume there is...

Ok, I see what you're saying. P0689 is setting because its thinking there is something wrong with the ISP-R circuit or the injector circuits are powered up all the time. Have you load tested or voltage dropped the ISP-R or injector circuits in any of your testing? Or have you just done static...

Well, if you don’t have INJPWRM, that’s why the PCM is setting that DTC. Can’t monitor that circuit if it isn’t there lol. Have you talked to Lito about just shutting off those DTCs? I’m not sure why they just showed up out of the blue, but it makes sense to just shut them off in the tune. No...

Ok, that's pretty weird that you have an auto car PCM looking at manual (clutch pedal) inputs. What is that CDC3 strategy from? A manual car so that the PCM will play nicely with the 6R swap? When you swapped in the other PCM, did you use the same tune or did you just plug it in and see what...

That code sets when the ISP-R circuit and the INJPWRM circuit voltages don't correlate with each other. The ISP-R circuit provides a voltage input to the PCM when you cycle the ignition. When the PCM seems voltage on that circuit, it knows to ground the PCM power relay to fully supply itself...

I’m very aware of that fact. Sometimes it hits buyback before an FSE even gets out there. Couple weeks at the dealership, couple weeks working with TAC, FSE heads out. It’s easy to rack up 30 days very fast.

What else would they do with them? Scrap them? In my experience, most of the RAV cars I have seen are bought back not because of the car, but because whoever was working on them before overlooked something basic in the diag or because the car was at the dealer for more than 30 days. This happens...

There are RAV (reacquired vehicle) dealerships that buy a lot of buybacks, fix them, and sell them. AFAIK, buybacks do come with a 12 month/12,000 mile warranty. Depending on why it was bought back, I probably wouldn't have a problem buying one of them. Vehicles can get bought back for multiple...

No, sorry. The springs have been sold.

Send me the VIN, I can look it up in OASIS (A Ford system) for you and get the build date.