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the rear end should swap, but i believe in '11 the UCA was changed. So a '10 would be direct, 11+ you may need different UCA and bracket, not 100% someone chime in on that

54 out of a total of 3662 reviews? those could be people that were using it to cook a grilled cheese sandwich. if it was 20-30% 1 star reviews, that warrants a "hmmm maybe something else"

thanks, still very intro level for sure. I actually went to a machine shop today because they have an opening. May forgo my welding classes this summer for a position since they arent required. Would give me a job for the summer full time, go to part time in the fall to finish my CNC class for...

Yup it started off as a 1.25" hex bar of bronze, I felt the hex shape gave it character, so kept the exterior and all i did was buff the rough finish off it, even leaving in the jaw marks. Gave it a taper to bring it from hex to round, gave an inch or so of smooth diameter, then tapered again...

Heres a small collection of my machining projects I have completed in school. This boring head I am probably 95% of the way done, I need my 1/4"-40 tap so I can thread the part for the dial. The hammer below is a deadblow I made last fall. The cannon I slapped together earlier this semester to...

I mean my compressor blew exactly 1 fuse on me, no idea why. never happened since.

yup, especially now that im supercharged, a spare belt and breaker bar is a very good choice. Ive been debating re-doing my air setup, mounting it on left/right sides of the trunk, and putting a full size spare in the wheel well cause i currently have no spare. lol

I had my fuse blow on my air compressor one day, was aired out, no spare fuses. Luckily my headlights had the same fuse, used it to air back up, then swapped the fuse back for headlights since it was 2am. Always keep a pack of assorted fuses in the car now

yup, and I am in a machining program since my employer shitcanned all of us. Legit cannot wait to get it at the house to play with it. Will be re-routing the wires and such, cleaning up what I find i need to do. Will for sure be getting a quill DRO for it, potentially a cheap addon Knee DRO.

Im purchasing a new toy for the garage and will get it in next week. Actually is a mill from my former employer that was auctioned off before the shutting of the doors. Purchaser passed away early this year and family is looking to get rid of it, coming at a good deal i couldnt pass up. Comes...

tried hitting it with a purse?

the DOB tensioner is literally 2 stock tensioners stacked like a sandwich and modified for a larger throw of travel. It is a very stiff setup

there are different circuits, that the relay that triggers the circuit is on the 12v side, or the ground side, window switches iirc will be 12v, and the coils are grounded i believe. In this situation, the circuits are seperate on the positive side of the circuits, but come back together, only...

huh...did photobucket start allowing hot-linking again, but threw a huge water mark on it? May i recommend using literally ANY image host from this day forth than photobucket? sorry to side-track the discussion, those two are actually showing the exact same diagram, just laid out differently

you compress air, you heat it. You heat air, you get less power out of it due to reasons. you want the air compressed, AND cold

i think the ecu reads kinda funny when the one that should be going down first stays up, and the other one drops. he said theres fuel on passenger side, but not on driver, so that sounds a lot like a fuel cross-over problem. As said above, double check the cross over, that you didnt bend it...

well the pump pulls oil directly from the pan, then pumps it through the filter/cooler and then the motor. so the aeroated oil isnt through the pump, but it would effect how the rest of the motor is oiled

you mean literally any other site fuck photobucket and their hotlinking hostage making

the only way to make it reduce compressible volume, is have it stick out into the chamber, which youd probably wind up smacking the pistons with. Correct way is change the pistons

normally the pump will only prime for a few seconds. On a full tank, having to key on/off is annoying and will take a while, Lito made me a tune that i just used to drain the tank, it turns the pump on and keeps it running. Or you could hotwire the pump to keep it constant

I'd drain it. Disconnect the fuel filter, add an extension hose and shove it in some gas cans .get a tune from your tuner that leaves pump on 100% of the time when get is in acc position . It'll drain the gas in no time . Also a good time to do an oil change and fuel filter once your done

Ive been meaning to do this myself.....And yes, no way id spend $45 on it when i can just hog a hole out, $3 of wire and a 50 cent button will accomplish the goal

Tekkkkkkkk

yea the OEM setup, you can trim it all the way back, its a barbed fitting.

why'd you cut the hoses short, but not all the way to the barbs on the fittings? would be cleaner look