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My patterns looked almost exactly like TerryZak's, if that helps. I installed FRPP 3:73's, and used the original rear pinion shim.

If this helps, I did a similar project on my '06. Hot Rod cams, new OEM timing set/followers/lash adjusters, VCT solenoids, and HV oil pump. The best advice I can give you is to A, get the special tools needed for the job (less than $100), B, take your time, and C, follow the cam instructions to...

That thing is so bad-ass!!

Just keep yanking on it, but make sure you pull as straight as possible. Mine was stubborn too, I think it was the o-ring that was stuck..

Actually the opposite is true- with wrapped headers, condensation develops under the wrap after the headers cool. This of course leads to rust unless they are coated as well. For my money, thermal barrier coating is the only way to go.

Whose CAI are you running? I had a JLT that I bought as part of a package deal with the SCT tuner. Several months after installing it the motor started acting funny (well, strangely, it wasn't that funny after all). Cruising at 60-70 it would all of a sudden act as though the key was turned of...

Yes, you can replace them without removing the cams. It's a little tedious, but not overly difficult. Pretty much everything you need to know is here:

The finger height will vary between clutches, but the release bearing preload is CRITICAL! If the bearing travels too far it can push it past the crimped edge of the inner sleeve that it rides on, causing it at best to leak and at worst, well, use your imagination. With an Exedy Mach 400 I set...

If the clutch was replaced with an aftermarket unit and the slave cylinder preload wasn't checked/adjusted, the slave may have over-stroked and then finally come apart. Sorry for the potential bad news.

I was gonna say that.....

Maybe there's something wrong with one of the struts; like too much high-speed compression damping. This will make the car "twitchy" over bumps. Have you had it back to the alignment shop and had them drive it?

Yes, I can imagine little pieces of metal sticking to the cam and/or crank sensors and creating a false trigger. The tank (Navigator) is getting an oil change tomorrow night so I'll see what shows up in the filter. Thanks to all of you guys for all of the great info.!

I like 07 Boss's idea. I had the same so-called Vibrant resonator in 3" on my Durango, and it did pretty much nothing, but it also turned out to be a Chinese knock-off, so no disrespect to Vibrant. Using the longest resonator that will fit will give you the best result. On my '06 GT I have DNA...

I'm guessing the rocker damage was caused by the phaser coming off. The phasers use a torque-to-yield bolt; did you use new bolts and follow the proper tightening process? Here's a cam installation guide if you need it. The process should be the same regardless of the cam brand...

Thanks for the feedback. It would be interesting to see what the differences are in LSA's. I suppose I could stick a degree wheel and a dial indicator on it when I have it apart, but that's looking more and more like a waste of time. Yeah, it's a goofy idea, but that's my specialty. No current...

In the photos of the valves, it looks like they are slightly off their seats. If the piston on that cylinder is at TDC, the valves are bent and the party is over. Do the leak-down test as suggested.

I'm getting ready to do a complete preventative cam train rebuild on my wife's 2010 navigator 5.4- timing kit, followers, oil pump, etc. I was toying with the idea of swapping in the stock cams out of my mustang while I was in there. Looking for feedback, positive or negative, on this. I know it...

Slave cylinder preload is what I would consider a critical item to check with an aftermarket clutch. You mention you went through 3 clutch lines- expand on that. Does this mean you've tried 3 different lines?

Sounds like an exhaust leak. One clue is that an exhaust leak will get louder under load.

This caught me out when I did the cams on mine. I got the pass. side together and all looked great. Did the driver's side and was turning it over to make sure all was well, then noticed the colored links weren't lining up. Got all freaked out, thinking somehow the chain had slipped a link or...

Glad that worked out the way it did. That could have been so much worse!

Yes, he did a very respectable job with it. There's still going to be some loss at the lower end, given the relatively aggressive LSA of the cams and fact that the CMCV's are no longer on it. Overall I'm totally pleased with how it performs.

The VCT system on these engines demands a lot of oil volume from what I've seen. It would be an interesting experiment to install pressure gauges at various points and look at the pressure drops. My money is on the cam phasers as the biggest consumers of oil volume. I think 2nd to that would be...

When I did my timing kit/oil pump/cam installation I just packed a little grease into the oil pump to help it prime. No drama.

You shouldn't expect any big gains by just adding or replacing one component. Generally headers, cams, etc. compliment each other to create overall power gains, when they're properly matched. I did the research before buying my cams, and I knew the Hot Rod cams wouldn't make the power that a set...