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:naughty1: That's my approach... The best defense[ive driving] is a good offense... :naughty1:

Best guess is rotor warp, or perhaps coast side gear break-in given that... (vibrations that were there already, but transmitted better by solid DS - now dieing down with a little more wear).

2 things you should check yesterday: 1. Oil pressure (measured, don't rely on the guage) 2. VCT logging looking for erratic measured angle... Phasers bouncing around can be a phaser problem (there was a TSB IIRC), but its also an indication of a oil pressure problem (as is rocker/lifter noise...

I'd vote for a mechanical/electrical issue caused by something loose... Particularly in that it worked for a little while and then the vibrations shook something loose that was not tight enough... The manifold needs to be tight, or air can leak in which screws up the A/F. If the MAF connector...

As others have said, indexing might help... The solid DS will transmit vibrations from the rear through the car "better" than the floppy noodle from the factory (that's the reason they put that in there was to prevent harmonics). Could be feeling the brakes where you could not before, you could...

Busy... Actually getting far enough down the list of things to do that I played with the car today... I threw out my back at the end of last year and I am just now healed enough to work on cars again... I've been up around all this time, but bending over a car would put me in a bed for a...

Put a momentary switch somewhere in the car (or wire to the brake)... Otherwise leave it and "crash through" the ball detent inside... It is specifically designed to still work without issue, but require more force to get through... The solenoid is designed to hook into the PCM and is sent a...

Track is sticky, both its surface (lots of rubber) and the VHT they often dump on it... It will show a problem before the street as a result of its increased friction... Your clutch packs are going... Could have been a freak accident that you got one tire more wet or one tire stuck in a...

Guitar, Tuba, Sax with a little Bass and Trombone... Lately just guitar... Easiest to play around the house... Haven't had the time to play anything organized for a long time...

Play nice... Sounds like your tune is fine and sounds like Doug needs to find a safer Hobby... :idea:

Yeah, sorry for being quiet... Been a strange, busy year... I hop on here to review the latest posts and get about 3/4 through that and get pulled away by something else...

Yes, they are a feedback system - they monitor input angle change vs actual angle and if the tune tries to change their retard/advance and it doesn't happen, it will throw codes and may go into failsafe...

rodents love the valley under the intake of modern cars:thud: They collect all manner of flammable materials in there... leaves, pine needles fabric... Its not pretty...

Glad you found it... The cams on this car cause all sorts of confusion but 11 times out of ten when they freak out - something else caused it... (well, ok, there were some TSBs on the phasers, but most of the time cam issues are electrical or oil pressure related... Bug would do it - it is...

Which, if I recall correct are just pegged rich and pegged lean... Again, cams could cause rough idle, but I would not expect them to influence AF to that degree... That sounds electrical/sensor or tune related (along the lines of my first post) - bad MAF, bad xfer table or something...

Any other codes? Cam phasers could certainly cause erratic idle, but if the AF is off that much, I'd be looking further up the intake... Wondering if maybe your MAF is unhappy because your voltage is bouncing around? Cam issues are usually the alternator... Any codes? Reseat connectors of...

Sounds like a fubar MAF or transfer table... That's pretty much what it does if you "guess" with the transfer table on a new MAF and get it wrong... Was this setup/tune working before? If not the MAF/xfer table then next is bad fuel pump? Have you looked at fuel pressure? After that its...

Mike, calm down, it's ok... There's no need to break your keyboard or spit at your screen:beerdrink: I've got plenty of hands on - I've been tearing apart cars (and putting them back together:thumb: most of the time) for 20 years... I've rebuilt older tremecs (not this one - yet), but I know...

switch is on the dome-light plate over the mirror - not so good...

Which you evidently couldn't be bothered to read correctly - I said you WOULD NOT power shift overdrive gears (even if you did powershift the lower gears) and as such you shouldn't be mashing the gear shift lever into 5th which means you won't overcome the force required to prevent an...

What does powershifting 1-2 have to do with reverse?:idea: Powershifting without modifications to the synchros (i.e. having them cut for "proshifting" which removes many of the teeth) is indeed going to kill these things (or pretty much any street manual for that matter)...

The "crash through" feature that allows it to work without the solenoid hooked up is intentional and mentioned by tremec in their docs somewhere... They designed it to work without the button, but required it to take more force so that it would not be done accidentally... Powershifting the...

Ditto, ditto - don't even notice it...

Great series - sadly, for the 99.9999% of Americans who don't learn history - if they did nothing more in their history class, but watch this, they'd be better for it...

No, my hand is satisfied everytime:beerdrink: I can appreciate it from a technical standpoint, but you won't catch me with an MP3 of that in my car... :idea: