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The differences between 4032 and 2618 listed earlier in this thread are pretty spot on. I've seen both 4032 and 2618 stuff hold up just fine at higher horsepower levels and bigger boost.... and at the same time I've seen them both fail into a melted pool of aluminum at much lower power levels...

As you know I'm sorry to hear that you have had problems with the heads and that your experience has not been a good one. Honestly an apology from me probably does not mean much though, I'm new to this situation and have only been working with you a short time now. I'm not really that familiar...

Missed this when just reading through. I'll try and answer. The original port CNC is setup against the stock manifold. I don't have a lot of info or feedback on the cylinder heads myself as I tend to just be involved with engine stuff. So I asked some of the sales guys if they had heard...

Sorry, have not been on in a couple of days. Been working in the back and not had computer time as such. Guess I have not been on LinkedIn in a couple of years. That statement was true a couple of years ago, I did used to oversee all of those departments. But things have changed a lot since...

Yeah, by custom I meant based on my experience from doing my own projects, which were often custom and required non-standard parts. That's the only reason I know of finding those alternative o-rings sources, I needed them for a project. In regards to your heads I have not had a chance to...

It's fairly application specific, you can make cast iron (powdered guides) work just fine in a lot of applications with attention to the setup, machine work, seals, etc. The same can be said for bronze guides as well, with the correct setup they can be made to last also and work well in...

Definitely a small area to work with. Increasing the bolt torque will probably provide little to any additional clamping force because the bolt is just stretching most likely at that end of the torque spectrum. In most cases the manifolds are designed to compress the o-rings completely as well...

I would think that this offer still stands, though I'm not really in the loop often on these dealings. If you have heads that need repair then I would definitely say we want to work with you to try and fix them. Is this something you were speaking with Dave on? I would be glad to talk to him and...

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Interesting, guess the info I was going off was wrong. Well that makes for an odd scenario. Out of curiosity do you happen to know what the lash was set at? The adjustment is controlled in the valve tip height or lash adjuster if an adjustment needs to be made. Curious where it fell, I don't...

I was asked to have a look at this and see if I could offer any information. Read through the thread and issues with the head. I'm not normally very involved with cylinder head matters so I'm not really too abreast of this situation but I did try and get some info and get filled in. I spoke...

Ahh... yes, if it's more than just a dot-to-dot swap than you will need to remove the cover to get to the lower gear for degreeing purposes. Good catch.

You don't need to take the front cover off to change camshafts in a modular. Just the valve covers can come off if you use a "wedge" tool. The tool goes down in the front cover between the timing chains and is tapped into place wedging out the chain adjuster and locking them into place. This...

Have not seen the current versions of these gears first hand in a while but years ago there was a rash of these kinds of gears failing. They were either cracking through the aluminum plate and self-destructing or the small little bolts were eventually allowing the cam-plate to move and the...

From a mechanical standpoint there really should not be any possible issues that can arise from losing the electronic portion of the VCT when the cam phaser is mechanically locked. There really should not be any effect. Was there any other damage to the front of the engine?

If the phasers are locked out then it's impossible for them to move. Even with hydraulic force present there is no way to overcome the mechanical lock created by the aluminum wedge lockout inside of the phaser.

As others have said I would not run the engine any more. You need to verify oil pressure with a mechanical gauge first. Running anything under 10psi at idle is going to get sketchy. Should have hot oil pressure numbers in the middle teens at idle at a minimum.

If the cam phasers are locked out then you should not be getting any noise from them. Once locked out the phaser no longer moves, it's essentially a fixed gear at that point.

I don't think you will have a problem. Judging from the original time frame that we got our first large shipment in I don't think the bad batch we received was until the very end of 2008 or beginning of 2009. If you purchased in October of 2008 I think you would have come before that. Thanks

It really wouldn't make a difference which way you went, old to new or new to old. The performance of the heads is identical. The valve cover of the newer style head has less bolts then the old. The old style has bolts that go around the entire head perimeter. The new style does not. But...

Yes, this applies to both the old and new style castings. At this point we've not really found any differences in the castings themselves that would be noteworthy enough to cause any performance difference. With exception of the spark plug design and valve cover arrangement almost everything...

Okay, I think I misunderstood what you were saying originally. I thought you were talking about reaming out the guide bore in the cylinder head. This would be a problem if you reamed the aluminum cylinder head bore. Reaming or honing the guide bore ID to ensure proper valvestem to guide...

We've tried a couple of different methods of checking finished heads but nothing has ever been very consistent. The only surefire method we came up with was sending the guides out in question to have the material analyzed. (Hardness, composition, etc.) The faulty guides produce different test...

Hmm... Well unless they are a guide I'm not familiar with then you should not have to modify the guide hole in any way. When installing guides its always important to measure the guide bore in the head first and then measure the guide to ensure the correct press. The guides require the correct...

Unfortunately at this point there is not. Because we buy the guides in large volumes there are sometimes numerous batches of guides that fall into one of our orders. All of these guides were kept inventoried as a single part number and the only reference we had was the date of receipt. After...