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Actually, they revised them after 2015 again... I believe the current version being sold is only a few years old (less than 5).

Update, spoke with a couple of builders and tuners. My current setup uses PAC 3V Springs that have an open pressure of 270 lbs. That's a stiff spring. The recommendation is to go with a lighter spring; Comp Cams 26113-24 which have an open pressure of 198 lbs...significantly less. I will lower...

I did read that. And I was wondering why the F150 3V had that issue and not the Mustang 3Vs... What is the difference in valve train? The new followers I just picked up from Ford do have a much smaller hole!! The original OEM followers from my stock engine had much larger holes, I believe they...

Yes, this has happened previously, but I caught it in time before cam damage occurred. I have found numerous followers where the bearing roll rough and gritty. I have previously and recently found rollers that have seized and were flat spotted due to the cam lobe. So the initial failure mode...

I've experienced catastrophic valve train failure due to failing cam follwers (rollers / arms); both driver and passenger side. Has anyone else experienced this? Did you ever figure out the cause? My followers are failing in just a few thousand miles; less than 10K I believe. The rollers end up...

Ugh, let's not even talk about the price of tunes!! Holy crap!!! 3 times the price of back then... with slower service... sigh

Justin is hard to get in touch with these days. Since I'm back I've wanted him to tune my car, but seems like he doesn't tune anymore. Now it's another guy... and they need the car a few days. What happened to 2-3 hour tunes as you wait?

I run NGKs Iridium (7554) gapped at 0.025. Never heard of side gapping. Just researched it... very interesting. That's where all those funky 90s plug designs came from. Lol

Higher boost will need a stronger spark to jump the gap. You reduce gap to facilitate the spark jumping to the electrode as the coils do not have enough energy to jump a large gap under boost.. Basically reducing gap concentrates the spark... less air to travel through.

Skwerl, you're back!!?? What are you driving these days? I'm back in Central Florida as of late last year. What I'm trying to accomplish is a stronger spark with a reasonable gap. Right now, the gap is tiny... And its forcing me to R&R plugs more frequently than I care to do. In my...

That has been my experience too... I tell everyone to stay away from aftermarket coils. OEM is rock solid... it's used on 1500hp motors. If it works for them, good enough for me. Lol Since this is a different method than replacing coils, figured I'd try it... Somebody has to test the new...

Nope, not running that feature... Just want the increased spark.

When I was in search of bigger spark, I ran through the aftermarket COP issues that comes with boost. I tried all COPs at the time. Long story short, at least with the MSD COPs, it has much larger coils that require more amperage to deliver the necessary spark in boosted applications. At least...

So is the McLeod OEM style throwout bearing shorter than OEM...?

What made you research spacers for the throwout bearing? Just curious as I'm running a T-56M XL with McLeod twin disc clutch and OEM throwout with no spacers.

Has anyone tested the new MSD Coil Current Booster for Modular COPs? https://www.holley.com/products/ignition/ignition_boxes/street_and_strip/parts/8740 This is different than replacing your COPs, which have never performed for boosted applications. They work great for NA, but cause...

I would love to get a new car!!! Like the Challeger Hellcat or the Demon!! Or maybe just a new Mustang... Hell maybe even a Corvette!! Seems like most modded Mustang guys are getting Corvettes or Vipers these days. Anyway, if it wasn't because I spent over $85K on my S197, I would be driving a...

I don't have the BMR watts; another brand. But I do have BMR adjustable lower control arms and I get rattling (how I describe it) over sharp impacts/bumps. I am blaming it on the BMR adjustable LCA.

Yes, that would be another word for it...growl. Probably a better word than buzz. Typically when mine does that, I'm driving slow, trying to maintain 30-40 MPH...just trying to maintain the speed in 3rd and 4th causes this growl. Mine has also done it since day one. Its hard to come from the...

Oh wow... The RSTs suffered this a few years back.

So your T-56 Magnum XL transmission does not buzz below 2K rpm in 3rd and 4th if you load it up? Coasting/cruising at 1,400 RPM in 3rd or 4th, then moderately squeeze the throttle... No drivetrain buzz until 2,000 rpm...?

I believe everyone has it regardless of clutch. Its the transmission/bell housing. I don't want to discourage you. But I think you are chasing a Unicorn trying to eliminate the 3rd and 4th gear buzz under 2K. The only way you'll get rid of it is to down grade to an OEM GT500 6 speed.

Grinding!!?? Have you tested the clutch to see if it fails to disengage when you press the clutch after its hot? My first RST had a defect where the something was warped. I don't remember the details. Its somewhere in this forum. But it functioned awesome when cold, but as soon as it was hot...

I agree, I find the RST and the RXT to be a lighter feel than the stock clutch.

When I had the stock drivetrain and the RST, I had no buzzing. I did have the clunkiness at idle. But not the buzzing below 2K RPM. The buzzing I believe comes from the transmission. I had long conversations with Tremec about it. Its normal and expected. From my understanding, a lot of it has...