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The only reason for my mileage requirement is that when I bought my car, the dealership included free tires for life, but they have to last 15k miles per set. The 200 treadwear Star Specs I have now will probably make the 15k but they started out with 10/32 of tread, where the Rivals have...

Damn, I just noticed they start at 7/32. I need the tires to go 15k miles and the Star Specs started at 10/32 and I am just barely going to make the 15k. I dont think I can stretch them that far.

Good to hear they got a good review, I am already on the 275/35. I wonder if a 295/35/18 would rub real bad in the front with the BFG. I am on a 10" rim.

I would be getting 275/35/18, which the ZII, BFG and Super Sports are available in. I saw the BFG but I had not heard anything about it, good to see they are updating their lineup, their tires were getting a little outdated.

Anyone try a set of the new Dunlop ZII yet? I am just about ready for new tires and I have the Z1 Star Specs now and I am not sure if I want the ZII or the Pilot Super Sports. I autocross about once a month but it is a street car. As long as the tires last 15k miles, the dealership buys me new...

I would be suprised if you got 10,000 miles on them, especially if you are doing burnouts to heat them up. I would take a look at the Nitto NT-01, it is quite a bit cheaper and gets good reviews.

I am not familiar with the rules, but a one piece driveshaft could be a place to lose some weight.

The 18 x 10 Roush wheels work as well, both cast and forged. The forged ones are harder to find though.

I am on 275/35/18 and there are a lot of choices, 275/40/18 is closer to stock diameter but there are still some good tires out there. I don't know how wide your wheels are though. What kind of tire are you looking for? I don't drag race, but I do autocross quite a bit and there are a lot...

I am on the Roush 18x10 cast wheels with 275s front and rear, no real problem with tramlining or bumpsteer. 18" wheels give you the most options for tires, and will be generally less expensive.

Had an F-250 with the 6.0L diesel and it would do the same thing, it was the temperature sensor in the transmission that went bad. It was telling the computer that the transmission was overheating so it was shifting hard to protect itself. Might want to see if that takes car of the problem.

They have been pretty quiet on my mustang, but I have slotted rotors, not sure if that has any impact or not. They were noisy enough on my girlfriend's jeep that I had to replace them with ceramics.

They are designed with cornering in mind, but they are very comfortable when adjusted softer. I like mine a lot. That is a good price too.

I am assuming you have to go to a 19" or 20" wheel to fit it correct? If so you will save on the brake kit but spend a lot more on tires I would think.

I would go with your car as is, see how much you like it, and go from there. If you are happy with how your car feels, then stick with it. If you find a good deal on a miata or something like that to gut and turn into an auto-x car, then do that. No reason to run into either decision.

That isn't really fair to Sam, I get annoyed at work when a client has us come up with a plan for a construction plan and then hires someone else to do the work. Kind of the same thing as buying wheels from someone else and asking Sam how to make them fit.

17x10 could fit with the correct offset, I have the Roush cast 18x10 wheels and they don't rub. If you get 18x10 then you can try to find some used Continental race rubber. Whelen Engineering's Corvette team is down the street from me and the front tires off that car would fit my rims. I...

For track use, go same size front and rear. You don't want to emphasize understeer and you want to be able to rotate tires. You are on the right track with the Enkei wheels though, they are a good wheel. With a 17" wheel you will not be able to upgrade your brakes if you decide to do that at...

The Hawk ceramics will dust less than the HPS, which is a higher performance pad. The HPS tends to make a rust colored dust. It is not bad on the chrome wheels on my car, but it sticks to the wheels on my girlfriend's jeep pretty bad.

If you have the money for it, upgrading the strut mounts isn't a bad idea. The stock ones are pretty weak and can come apart. When I switched my struts last spring, one of my strut mounts fell in half. I had already ordered the Steeda HD mounts so it wasn't a big deal.

The instructions were useless, they are on a small single sheet of paper that looks like it has been photocopied too many times. They install just like normal shocks. I just used the tool to adjust all four to full soft so I knew they were all starting at the same point and adjusted them from...

Another option is the Enkei PF01, Strano sells them in 9.5 and 10.5 width.

I would say no to the impact wrench idea. I used a crescent wrench for my Koni Sports, wish I could say I did more than assume what was tight enough.

I'll trade you, I'll even pay for the shipping and throw in a spare set of brand new Hawk HPS pads.

I have 275/35/18 front and rear, i don't notice any issues with tramline or bump steer. You will be more limited in tire selection by going with 19" wheels instead of 18". The new Goodyear G:2 tire seems to be decent and is made for those wheels. If you get 18" wheels, you can look at the...