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Last March was my THIRD "Final Roundup" at TWS. Rumor of TWS closing have been going for at least 15+ years and each year the track manages to stay open just one more year...

Strano rear bar won't clear Corsa Extreme at full soft. Went down that road already. :(

Make sure you vacuums the interior before trying this... https://www.facebook.com/SilviaSaintOfficial/videos/1051527001572397/

You are aware that both Griggs and Cortex sells reinforced shock brackets for use with their coil-over right? It looks like you are the only one who believe the shock bracket won't break...

Are you even referring to the same post by Jack Hidley? I'm pretty sure he was talking about the OEM shock bracket on the axle housing...

Since 2005... http://www.drivingenthusiast.net/sec-blog/?p=11329

What size tires is that measurement for?

Biggest improvement will be a pair of 150 Hz cut-off bass blockers for the 5x7/6x8 in the doors and rear shelf. They are just not made to handle any bass at all.

Biggest improvement will be a pair of 150 Hz cut-off bass blockers for the 5x7/6x8 in the doors and rear shelf. BTW, just about ANY aftermarket speakers will be an improvement over the cheap OEM speakers that came with the Shaker system.

BUMP

BUMP X2

BUMP.

No need to completely remove the sway bar. Just disconnect the end links and tie up the sway bar and end links so they don't flop around and go for a drive. Without going to coil overs, the two most common options are Koni and Bilstein. I used Koni DA on my Fox and Koni Yellow on my S197...

Even with a measly 1" drop with Steeda Sport springs, I still have to cut the OEM bump stops to keep the car from riding on the bump stops. Just take a hacksaw to them.

Try WD40 followed by wash and wax. If necessary, clay bar and wax as needed. Stay away from harsh chemical like acetone if at all possible.

Try unbolting the sway bar end links (and tie it against the struts) and take a drive. I've seen OEM end links goes bad with relatively low miles.

These two stickies should answer most of your questions. http://www.s197forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=81497 http://www.s197forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=84488 I have all three machines that you mentioned and the Flex is far superior when it comes to power and control. Torq 10FX...

SOLD!

Same thing happened to my wife's ES350. Wash, clay bar then polish with DA was the only way to get rid of them.

The rod ends do not move unless you twist them firmly, so they are still pretty tight. Going from memory, they are probably moving more smoothly now then when they first came out of the box. But they were so tight when brand new, they are practically sticking. Service life for rod ends...

No change to NVH at all. But if your OEM end links are worn out and rattling, these end links will definitely REDUCE NVH. :) I don't think you are going to notice any change in steering feel unless your end links are falling apart and have serious slops. Primary advantage for adjustable end...

SOLD! Used for less than 2K miles. In great condition and rod ends are still tight. Took them off the car because the new setup requires shorter endlinks. Fits 2005 - 2014 S197 Mustang. $75 local in DFW area or $80 shipped CONUS.

WD40. Then wash thoroughly and wax as needed.

:happythumbs: Thanks!

Minor hi-jack... Do you guys have enough room to put a torque wrench on the strut bolts (without using extensions) with the caliper/rotor still in place?