Search results for query: *

Honestly I think that track's MPH must read low. Your 660-1320 time tells the tale, and it's less than 2 hundredths off what I saw on a 9.89 pass here. As good as your 60 was and then looking at your 330 I have to wonder if you still had a 1-2 short shift at least to some degree. I still think...

That's exactly what I see in the splits, the 60-330 is lacking compared to similar cars. You look good the rest of the way. Get the 330 time under 4.10 like it should be and your car will run 9.80s.

I think you are missing tire squish in your calculations. Your radial tire, even at speed they are probably at least an inch less diameter than the advertised measurement. I also doubt you're going to get more than 7700 RPM. At that RPM and 27", now the limit is just under 123 MPH with the 3.31...

1.45

Real close to a 9 on the 85MM yesterday. Stepped back to that pulley due to the fuel system being marginal on keeping up with the 82MM. It ran 10.04@136 on the very first hit. I think the 9 would be there with some more attempts, but it wasn't possible with over 300 cars there yesterday.

I think too little air and it's cupping the center on launch. I also think you could use a harder compound, that looks like pretty heavy feathering.

I'd put a truck engine in it too. I would at least put the Mustang intake cams, oil pump since the chains are going to already be off to do the cams, the windage tray is part of the oil pan gasket so that's an easy swap and the pan would already be off for the front cover/cam swap. At that point...

The oil pan, plugs, heads, are NOT different. The only difference in the intake is the color. I've done full teardowns. They don't have the windage tray, different intake cams, different pistons, smaller oil pump, different front cover/belt routing. Block/crank/heads/rods are exactly the same...

We got it done on the 82MM tonight. I figured out something with the trans calibration that isn't in any of the tuning software currently. I hoped for half this much, I never dreamed it would pick up 3 tenths. No changes since last time other than calibration, and the weather was similar enough...

Just N of Austin here. If you come get it you can have it.

VP C20. I've worked with E85 quite a bit and have come to the point that I'd just rather work with quality gasoline. I get some good laughs out of car weights, you've got guys with NA cars so no blower or ice tank, no roll bar in them, same things as here like tube bumpers, tube rad support...

Still heavy, a bit over 3500 with driver. It's got a big ice tank in the trunk and a mild steel roll bar from Waston. Only things taking weight off are tube bumpers, dumped exhaust, seats, removed evap, front brakes, tube rad support, wheels/tires.

Working with a similar car. Engine all stock other than the roush kit with 82mm. It's got a 2C 245mm and a 3.08 axle, some decent suspension parts, and on a 30x10.5 radial tire. Best is 1.49, 10.18@138. I really think it should sixty in the 1.3s and it isn't liking that converter much. Plan is...

No. When you pull the shifter back into the 1 or 2 position, you'll get a wrench light.

:troll3:

And mine tapped the limiter when it did that. I think that is key in addition to the extreme gear ratio, the car settles back onto the front suspension so the springs have more stored energy to lift the front when power is reapplied.

Been there, done that, here it is in slo-mo. Back when I had a 4.30 axle, which was the thing that made it easy. EFby-aUM1sY

That was the 13 CJ drive. This was fixed on the 14 model, the alternator was moved to the rear shiv, no longer on the 10 rib.

I don't have any way to time the release, but it is simplified. Benefits should be more pump volume available since one less clutch is used. Wear shouldn't be a concern, in either case we are only releasing, not applying. The only place that has been informed about how to do the calibration is...

That one simplifies the applied clutch situation. The only drive clutch applied is the forward, no more direct. Other than that only holding clutches are applied. The only thing that has to happen for the car to start to move in 1st gear is the intermediate clutch release. Again, this requires a...

That all your FUD about things like wiping out thrust bearings was exactly that, FUD.

A year has passed, many people using the transbrake successfully. So much for the naysayers. Time tells the true story.

Manuel do you already have a stock trans? You can do the clutch plates and shaft in a couple of hours. Easy peasy.

I've got a pair that are still good. $50 sent to you. PM if you want them.

I never dealt with 3V cars, so maybe doesn't apply the same to them.