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Thank you for answering the question.

I don't want to derail this really good thread, but does anyone know if the Torsen in the Track Pack GT cars is the same as the BOSS 302? I always assumed, but was t sure.

Isn't that less an ideal from a rate standpoint?

Buying a used 10k car and the dealer is giving me $28.500 in trade. Thanks for your input gents.

Also hit up the tracks web sites around you. For instance at Hallett, they run their own "HPDE" style group the same weekends as their race series.

Honestly the only thing I would do is brake pads, and fresh rotors if need be. I'm also a big fan of the Carbotech's (it's what I run on my Miata at the track). Driving around the suspension, while not the most fun, is good experience. But fading brakes after a couple laps is no fun and can be...

It does have the Track Pack, it seems as though many of you skipped over that in the original post. I should probably find the nearest http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_burn_centers_in_the_United_States

I hadn't yet received a response when I posted. Wanna fight about it? Like I said, you guys are just undervaluing your cars.

To see what people thought a fair asking price should be. It would seem as though members of this forum are undervaluing their cars vs the market.

Because of the few new cars/trucks I've owned and traded-in over the last few years, I've never experienced a ~23% depreciation rate even on a car with 3x as many miles. It's been more like 6-8%. Maybe some people aren't as good negotiating, or buy cars upside down, or get so excited...

lulz at the forum kiddies who think no one else knows how to buy a car without getting screwed. How's the air up there?

Hmmm, already had one dealership offer me $28-29k trade-in on a used vehicle. I may just jump on that if the car is as nice as the pictures look.

I'll double check the sticker when I get home, but I believe $34,500ish.

2013 GT, Base w/ Track Pack........no other options. White in color. Car has 5500 miles and will get a fresh oil change before it goes to the new owner. What should I expect to get for it? Or where should I start my asking price, I was thinking $29,500ish? Any suggestions? (Selling so I...

No, but the conventional wisdom is Yellows at full soft mimic the SRT.T damping.

Completely off.

Toe is typically regarded to cause more of the tire wear than camber. I'd run as close to 0 toe up front as you can get.

http://www.stoptech.com/technical-support/technical-white-papers/-warped-brake-disc-and-other-myths

lulz at fading brakes on the street.

From talking to guys like Sam McDonald (old AMA champ), it was the exact opposite. The chassis' were so floppy, they had to run crazy high spring rates to account for the chassis flex. He said the bikes he set-up for his son, Tyler, used softer springs than the old bikes even now with much...

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Confirmation_bias

Hehehe, that's why I track a tiny car. 15 20 minute sessions and the brakes have no appreciable wear.

I think Carbotech makes pads that will work with the XP transfer layer and be streetable. So you'd only have to swap pads and not rotors as well, though if you don't have fixed calipers, it's not much more to change rotors as well. Nice thing about Carbotech's is they are pretty easy on rotors...

I use the XP10/8 on my Miata with Rcomps.......you might need to go up a bit with the compound as heavy as the Mustang is. That said, I LOVE the feel and modulation on track with them. On the street though, they do dust alot (although not corrosive like many track-worthy pads) and they are...

Just giving you a hard time! As I mentioned earlier, I don't understand spending $4500+ (don't kid yourself into thinking you won't have massive scope creep on this project), when you plan on ditching the car for a Coyote next year anyway. $4500 buys a lot of tires/brakes/gas and entry fees!