07 Gt idle high hard to shift

AntGreg79

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I have a 07 GT manual that about a week and half ago I had installed Comp Cams stage 1 and it made a decent power gain.. But as of yesterday on start up the RPMs would jump to about 2500 then slowly drop to about 1000. I also noticed it is way harder to put it in 1st and 5th is damn near impossible to get into.. Then today i drove home from work every time I would press the clutch in or put it in neutral the RPMs seem to just float at 3000 for a while before dropping down to 1000.. Please any advise is appreciated.. Thanks
 

stkjock

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Who tuned it?


Could be the clutch issue just coincidental
 

Iceman62

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Any DTC's stored? Check engine light on/off? Self install, or shop? Is car tuned/dyno'd?
 

rocky61201

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Clean the throttle body. That won't cost you anything. Then work from there if the problem persists. A hanging throttle and excessive RPMs will make any transmission difficult to get into any gear.

Your car is at least over 10 years old. How many miles on the car? Check every little bushing and component in your shifter linkage for excessive wear and play or stuff being bent. Those are easy repairs and don't cost much either.
 

AntGreg79

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Thanks for all your input finally my car pulled a code went to AutoZone said it was a vacuum leak hunted and sprayed everywhere under the hood turns out it's a throttle body already got a GT500 60 mm being shipped to the house

To answer your question about who tuned it these cams don't require a tune.. just trying to ball on a budget.. Lol
 
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stkjock

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your power gains would be improved with a proper tune
 

rocky61201

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Thanks for all your input finally my car pulled a code went to AutoZone said it was a vacuum leak hunted and sprayed everywhere under the hood turns out it's a throttle body already got a GT500 60 mm being shipped to the house

To answer your question about who tuned it these cams don't require a tune.. just trying to ball on a budget.. Lol

If you're on a budget, stop throwing money at the motor that will get you little to zero gains, especially if they don't require a tune. Spend your hard earned money on suspension/driveline related stuff. Example, if you car has over 150k miles and everything is still stock, it has exceeded it lifespan anyway. Start looking at control arms, driveshaft, shifters, and other suspension stuff. I can't say enough about the blowfish shifter bracket and amp performance bronze shifter bushings. Just because it doesn't add HP, doesn't mean you won't be able to drive faster and more consistently.
 

AntGreg79

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The new throttle body helped the high RPM issue , no more codes but it is still hard to get in gear especially reverse.. I find it odd that all these issues happened after I had the cams installed.. Going to flush out tranny fluid this weekend..
 

AntGreg79

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I have a stage3 clutch at least that's what I was told when I bought the car little over a year ago it grabs almost right at the floor
 

stkjock

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ok, however, getting the trans to enter a gear seems more typical of the clutch not totally disengaging to release and allow shifting
 

GlassTop09

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Thanks for all your input finally my car pulled a code went to AutoZone said it was a vacuum leak hunted and sprayed everywhere under the hood turns out it's a throttle body already got a GT500 60 mm being shipped to the house

To answer your question about who tuned it these cams don't require a tune.. just trying to ball on a budget.. Lol
Interesting.....glad you found your source of the vacuum leak!
Curious here.....if I may ask, where on the defective TB did you find the vacuum leak? Was it on the TPS side, the actuator side or both sides thru the BF shaft outer seals or was it due to a warped mounting flange surface so it lost sealing integrity on the O-ring in intake manifold? I'm asking this as I'm assuming that you're dealing w\ an OEM FoMoCo 55mm TB, correct?

As for the cams, are they the Comp Cams X-Fi NSR Stage 1 or #127050 cams?

What rocky61201 has typed concerning the amp bronze bushings in particular then following w\ the blowfish racing remote shifter bracket (if you do a lot of shifting under fairly high loads like racing) is something to seriously consider....especially if you're still using the OEM remote shifter....due to what you've mentioned about getting harder to shift into 1st gear & especially harder shifting into reverse but no mention of shifting getting harder into any of the rest.
I'll wager that this is mostly occurring when you're moving the shifter across the gate thru neutral to then go into 1st or reverse while clutch down & car is not moving but no issues shifting into any other gears moving or not, correct? If so this is a symptom of excessive play/slop in the shifter linkage assembly between the shifter handle itself & the gear selector shaft in the trans....ie, the trans gear selector shaft isn't "synched or fully aligned" w\ the shifter handle thus the internal trans gear selector is not quite fully in the outer shift rail gate(s) inside the trans (to access 1st\2nd gear or to fully access the reverse gate rail to then go into reverse) even though the shifter handle is at full side throw thus it has a tendency to "hang" or not go into gear. The OEM shifter linkage bushings are plastic nylon bushings & do wear over time creating excessive play or slop in the linkage.

It don't take much slop in the linkage to create this issue.........

The AMP TR3650 Bronze Bushing Kit that rocky61201 refers to replaces all the plastic bushings in the shifter linkage assembly w\ bronze metal versions to eliminate this "misalignment" thru the linkage & will also firm up the feel thru the shifter handle due to removing any excess forward\rearward slop/play in shifter throw from worn plastic linkage bushings thus improve overall shifting as well.....they're also relatively inexpensive, around $50.00-$60.00 on Amazon.

I've installed these myself & they're worth every cent....
 
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AntGreg79

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Thanks I will look into it I really don't know much about cars simple bolt on mods I bought this car broken I finally got it running right and now find all the rest of these issues all I really know about the car but I bought it is it had a stage 3 clutch and a Hurst short throw shifter besides that it had mismatching cams On It originally it's been a major headache for me to say the least.. the throttle body I put on a is in OEfor a GT500 with the adapter kit from Blow by racing plugs right in no issues with that
 

AntGreg79

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To be honest I'm looking to put more of a less aggressive clutch on the car.. is a stage 2 clutch really that much better than a stage one?
 

AntGreg79

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I want to get this thing running close to 100% then start on front end mods everything's loose in this car
 

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