1000 hp rotating assembly. 5.0

drive_55_not

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I can't find any info on the stock 2011 coyote crank as to what it's metallurgy is composed of to glean how much hp it may handle.So we know it is forged but what is it made up of? I presume they did not use 4340 chrome moly. Is the stock crank good over 800 hp?


The 'Yote crankshaft likely is 4340, the reason Ford sells them for $300 is it's mass produced rather than a special production like the old Kellogg Cobra cranks. The cranks are forged in Canada nit China.

As Bruce sed, the crank is the last thing I'd worry about breaking. Even those high $$$$$$, High HP JPC/RGR motors use a stock Coyote crank.

.
 

jpbaily1

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Well, I pulled the trigger. Ordered the Boss 302 rotating assembly, balanced with ARP bolts & Manley pistons & rods.

Now to find time to install the 1000hp -10 AN dual fuel pump kit before it goes off to the shop to install the 11.5:1 set-up, dual clutch, 4.10:1 ring, Stainless works full length headers, hi flow-CATs & stage III cams.

Then I'll up the boost. Yes, I will be needing a new trans & driveshaft soon. ;)
 

bunits19714

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I am just wondering why you are running(or going to be running) a 4.10 gear? unless you have converted to a t-56 already, the ratios of a m-82 with a tvs and 16psi+ of boost render the first & second gears absolutely useless- save your money on the manual upgrade and go t-400 with a quality converter.
 

Department Of Boost

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I am just wondering why you are running(or going to be running) a 4.10 gear? unless you have converted to a t-56 already, the ratios of a m-82 with a tvs and 16psi+ of boost render the first & second gears absolutely useless- save your money on the manual upgrade and go t-400 with a quality converter.

This
 

tjm73

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I've come to believe that once a power level exceeds around 400 whp the use of a stick shift for most people becomes a liability. And the use of an automatic transmission becomes a benefit for reduced parts breakage and easier use of the power available.

A guy I was friends with had almost the same car as I had except my car was a convertible and his was a hatchback. I beat him every time we lined up. He thought he could drive that stick with the best of them. One day at the track I said let me run your car a couple times.

On the first pass I had trouble getting into 3rd gear (crappy shifter), but still beat his best to date time. Second pass was clean. Beat his best by almost a half second. while I'm good at shifting, I'm not great. I would never make that claim.

My point is stick shifts are fickle and highly subject to driver capability. And as power goes up, the fickleness gets worse.

Your car will be faster and more reliable with a proper automatic.
 

jpbaily1

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Thanks for the insight guys!
This is a play car for me. It MAY see a drag strip, and it may not. The car came with the 6spd manual. I enjoy rowing through the gears. I could just start in 2nd gear. First is useless now as is with the stock gearing. :) I am not looking for races, but just more excitement in the car. I can always go back to the stock gearing if it is too much for me....
 

jpbaily1

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PS: My boost comes in at 3k rpm. vacuum referenced or not. I believe that my bypass valve is sticking open. Will know in the next month or so when this all gets torn down.
 

JEWC_Motorsports

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Engine builders are having this issue currently...ARP bolts snapping.
 

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JEWC_Motorsports

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The article doesnt say, ARP is blaming engine builders for not using their process to install them. Its across the board manufacturer wise. Lots of ARP stuff is snapping lately.
 

jpbaily1

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Well the car has about 6 grand in parts and I am looking at about 4 thousand for the engine R&R, adding long tube headers, free flow cats, larger crank pulley, smaller blower pulley, dual clutch, 4:10 gears, dual fuel pumps using -10AN lines, regulator, return lines, larger fuel rails, new plugs gapped @ 28 for over 15 LB of boost, steel braided clutch line Stage 3 cams with limiters. etc.
It is in the shop now and I assume it will take better than 2 weeks to finish.

I'll post my results after the tune.

The car is at C&H Motorsports in Sanford. They seem to know their stuff & I am impressed with them so far.
:signs1:
 

jpbaily1

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Well, It has ben quite some time since my last reply. The car is back and here are the mods.
Boss 302 forged crank (seems to be the same as the Coyote cranks in every way), forged H beam rods, Forged 11.1 compression
Forged Malhey pistons. Crower stage III Blower cams W/limiters. Equal length satinless works full length headers, HI flo cats, Meth injection, JLK CAI, ID 1000 injectors, AN10 fuel rails, regulator, upgraded fuel pump and AN 10 lines with return. T56 trams, one piece aluminum drive shaft, 4:10 gears. Manley dual cultch 800lb.
More to come once the clutch is broken in. Only 200 miles on the entire system now.
 

tjm73

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I believe the BOSS 302 cranks had different part numbers because they were balanced differently for different rods and pistons than that which the "regular" 5.0 got at the time. They were otherwise the same crank prior to balancing.
 

CammedS197

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Well the car has about 6 grand in parts and I am looking at about 4 thousand for the engine R&R, adding long tube headers, free flow cats, larger crank pulley, smaller blower pulley, dual clutch, 4:10 gears, dual fuel pumps using -10AN lines, regulator, return lines, larger fuel rails, new plugs gapped @ 28 for over 15 LB of boost, steel braided clutch line Stage 3 cams with limiters. etc.
It is in the shop now and I assume it will take better than 2 weeks to finish.

I'll post my results after the tune.

The car is at C&H Motorsports in Sanford. They seem to know their stuff & I am impressed with them so far.
:signs1:
Shit I lived damn close to C&H. I moved out of lake mary in 2016 and back into brevard. C&H are very good guys. Jaeson has a nasty 2v he's still building.
 

jpbaily1

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Well, here is the latest. Engine built and tuned. Has a slight bog around 2 - 3K during moderate driving. Mashing the peddle from a roll it pulls hard to redline. Engine builder says that he can't see any difference between the Coyote crank and the Boss 302 before balancing the rotating assembly. Must have wasted some money there. Lesson learned. At around 300 miles the stock 6spd would no longer shift into 5th or 6th gears. Bought a t56 w/ one piece drive shaft. The 32 spline required me to re-spline my new dual clutch setup. During that time that the trans let go, I had not gotten on it, as the dual clutch had zero miles on it. Now, perhaps during the dyno session after the build may have something to do with it. I am pleased with the results, even though I dropped 20hp or so. But I am now good up to 800hp before I need to replace the stock rear end (except for the 4:10 gears). 1000 hp some day.....and it is built for it. need chassis mods exec, but 1K is not out of the question.
 

jpbaily1

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Late reply:
We have everything in an it tops out at 620 CHP. I bought a Whipple to replace the Roush and that blower is goes to 1K+. New T6 trans, new aluminum drive shaft. COVID 19 stopped me from getting the new blower in & tuned. I will still have to stop at 800hp because of the 2011 5.0 coyote block can't take much more than that. But it should be much more peppy.
 

46addict

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The Coyote and Boss cranks are the same, the Boss is just balanced differently to account for the heavier Boss pistons/rods,

Manley H-beams with ARP rod bolts will handle 1000 FW hp easy enough,

You don't need billet caps at that level either.. but if you want em' ,, run em'.


.
I just re-read this thread from the start. And he did mention Coyote and Boss cranks being the same.
 

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