1994 Mustang GT money pit I mean project

Discussion in 'All Non-S197 Media' started by joe_momma, Nov 18, 2020 at 12:20 PM.

  1. joe_momma

    joe_momma forum member

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    Those haven't been inspected, but were items to check on the list. Dad has a timing light, I'm trying to rope him in to coming over to help lol.

    I was thinking baking soda would help as well. It seems to be coming from the trunk. I have to get in there and poke around with that sub/amp and check for a key fob box anyway, so I might as well pull everything and investigate.
     
  2. Juice

    Juice forum member

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    Yes, speed sensor is for cruise control, and possibly traction control. This sensor is on the speedo cable "bullet" where you access the speedo gear.
     
  3. tjm73

    tjm73 of Omicron Persei 8 S197 Team Member

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    You can even spread a bunch off it all over the floor to absorb the odor and then vac it up.
    That right. The speedometer and odometer were still purely mechanical. The PCM used the sensor data for cruise control and other operation functions as I understand it.
     
  4. tjm73

    tjm73 of Omicron Persei 8 S197 Team Member

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    Check the spare tire well. It may have collected some "gunk" that's gone foul. What kind of funk are we smelling? Dead rodent type or dirty socks type or mildew type?

    My '93 GT had a used gear oil funk in it. It was in the carpet. I was swapping to a black interior so it was a non-issue. Gear oil funk is HARD to get rid of.
     
  5. golkhl

    golkhl forum member

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    Factory timing should be set to 10*, I bumped mine to 12*. Do an internet search for the old 5.0 ten minute tune up, free knowledge and a few extra ponies.

    If you need the keyless entry module(drivers side trunk), lmk, I have a spare if you need it.
     
  6. joe_momma

    joe_momma forum member

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    Thanks guys, will let you know how it goes. The best way I can describe it is it smells like "old people". Not like something dead, but more of a stale smell. It was stored in a garage, so I'm thinking it maybe didn't get aired out all that often. I'll throw some baking soda in the carpets and give them a good cleaning before I bomb it.
     
  7. tjm73

    tjm73 of Omicron Persei 8 S197 Team Member

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    I've had decent luck with dryer sheets improving interior smell too. Toss a fresh scent under each seat and it'll be better in a day, two tops.
     
  8. Juice

    Juice forum member

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    And as a bonus, dryer sheets supposed to help keep rodents out. (no idea if that actually is true) I bought an 86 SVO a while back, car was in storage for 10 years. Had dryer sheets all over inside. Smelled nice and I never found any rodent damage anywhere!
     
  9. golkhl

    golkhl forum member

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    PIP sensor(inside the distributor) is a common failure.

    TFI module and Spout connector on the passenger side inner fender. Always a good idea to keep an extra TFI module in the glovebox. When you check/set the timing, make sure you remove the spout connector before checking or setting timing.

    Don’t forget to clean the MAF and throttle body during the tune up.
     
  10. joe_momma

    joe_momma forum member

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    I've got MAF and TB cleaner sprays, good call. What's this TFI and spout connector all about?
     
  11. jewc75

    jewc75 forum member

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    Usually near the fender. To set the base timing you have to pull the spout/plug.

    [​IMG]
     
  12. golkhl

    golkhl forum member

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    On 94-95 cars, the TFI module is mounted on the passenger inner fender, it was mounted on the distributor on the 93 and older 5.0’s.

    A3124C86-8A2C-4B5F-94EB-B892A3599CAD.jpeg
     
  13. tjm73

    tjm73 of Omicron Persei 8 S197 Team Member

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    TFI = Thick Film Ignition. Ford got sued over it, but it's actually a pretty good system. The problem they had with TFI had to do with where they put the module on the early cars that had the system. On Foxbody cars they put the module on the distributor with was right above the front of the engine in one of the hottest locations you can find. Sometimes the module can't handle the heat and it causes the module to basically shut the ignition down and the car stop running as a result.

    Ford's solution to the hot location was to move the TFI away from the engine and it's heat. In '94 the Mustang TFI moved it away from the engine. Which pretty much solved the heat problem.
     
  14. joe_momma

    joe_momma forum member

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    Gotcha, thanks guys. Did some wrenching this weekend, as well as tackled the stereo situation. #4 plug with headers it a huge PITA, I could just about get it out but my plug socket was getting wedged on the header. Ended up using a ratcheting wrench on it. Thankfully I messed with that one first, and it took me nearly an hour to get it out. The rest went fairly quickly. I'm waiting on some plug wire organizers to get here, the factory ones were brittle and went to pieces when I removed them. I couldn't install the new coil wire, the factory coil had some sort of clip on it and I couldn't figure out how to get the new coil wire through the plug to clip it on, so I just reused the old coil wire. I've got a new distributor cap/rotor coming along with a new coil, so that should resolve that issue. I went with Motorcraft plugs/wires and MSD coil/cap/rotor. Hopefully those are OK - they had good reviews on LMR.

    Stereo - back in the day, this was a pretty high-end system. Eclipse HU, PPI 6-channel amp (made in USA - back before they were bought up and started making shit) - these are going for $400-1800 on eBay at present. I'll probably just reuse it. The subs (2 12s) were Soundstream Reference, again, made back before they went to shit. MB Quart components up front in the doors. The tweeters are gone, so I'll find something decent to replace with. I spent the better part of 3 hours yesterday getting the sub box out - I'm guessing it was assembled in the car, as there was no way I was getting it out. Ended up cutting it apart with the jigsaw and a saws-all. That was quite an adventure.

    It looks like the keyless entry module is gone. I can see one plug, which I saw a video that referenced it being how you programmed new remotes. I was unable to locate the other plugs - I believe there are two that plug into the module which run to each door. I need to dig back in a little deeper I guess. I was tired of messing with it honestly after the sub box adventure.

    Pics to follow.
     
  15. joe_momma

    joe_momma forum member

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    Parts:
    [​IMG]

    Turtle Wax car bomb:
    [​IMG]

    Old plug closeup - does it look like it's running lean? They all looked like this.
    [​IMG]

    Plugs:
    [​IMG]

    Anyone recognize this thing? Unknown short shifter:
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Engine:
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Keyless module:
    [​IMG]
    You can see the gray plug. I could feel some other wires behind, maybe those are the missing door connections. I need to take that plastic mount down and see what is behind there.
     
  16. Juice

    Juice forum member

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    Plugs look good.
    Shifter looks like a Hurst w/adjustable stops.
     
    jewc75 likes this.
  17. joe_momma

    joe_momma forum member

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    Also forgot to mention that we managed to pull the dipstick out of the block when checking the oil. It wasn't attached to the manifold studs since the headers were installed. That was fun.

    Found some SVT wheels locally for $250 with tires (2 new Nitto, 2 that "hold air"). I might just go that route instead of Cobra Rs. Be a heck of a lot cheaper on me. What were the specs on those? 17x9 I think? Tires are 275/45.

    Also, smog delete coming soon. I've got to get that crap out of the way for the next time I'm working in the engine bay.
     
  18. tjm73

    tjm73 of Omicron Persei 8 S197 Team Member

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    I was also thinking Hurst. It has positive stops so it it's functioning correctly, I'd leave it as is and drive.

    Unless they are Cobra R wheels or '03-'04 Termi wheels, they are 17x8 with +30mm offset. The rears would look only about a billion times better with a set of 1" spacers. They will fit exactly like the wheels you have on the car.

    Cobra R wheels and the Terminator wheels are 17x9 with +26mm offset. And may also benefit from wheel spacers in the rear.

    If you decide you want to space them out 1" per side, PM me. I have a pair of 1" spacers from a car collecting dust in the barn. I have no expectation of ever using them. Another member here hooked me up with some original Foxbody foglights for the cost of shipping and I'd do the same if the spacers looked like something you might want. Pay it forward as they say.
     
    Last edited: Nov 23, 2020 at 12:06 PM
  19. golkhl

    golkhl forum member

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    Same thing with the keyless module in the drivers side trunk, if you need one, pay the postage and I will send it.
     
  20. joe_momma

    joe_momma forum member

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    Thanks guys. I've asked for more pictures of the wheels, hard to tell if there is any rash or what have you....

    [​IMG]

    For the price, even though they aren't exactly what I'd pick, it may be too hard to pass up assuming they look decent. I really wanted to stuff some 17x10 or 17x10.5 back there because that would look amazing, but these may have to do. There are several things I could get done for the difference in new wheels versus these.
     
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