2013 Mustang GT periodically will not start.

Discussion in '2011+ Mustang GT 5.0L Tech' started by Verty13, Jul 26, 2019.

  1. Verty13

    Verty13 Junior Member

    Didn't see an intro section, so this will be my intro!

    I am the brand new owner of a 2013 Mustang GT Premium Convertible. I am experiencing an issue that I find extremely annoying and one that could potentially leave me stranded.

    This issue has occurred twice since I purchased the car on Wednesday, 2 days ago. Once last night, and once this afternoon.

    ISSUE: The car refuses to start (no starter engagement, turn key- nothing) for many attempts. I have clutch fully depressed, car in gear, e-brake engaged. This is how I would expect it to start every time. It has had two episodes where I'm sitting in a parking lot for 15 minutes trying to start the vehicle, and making sure what I'm doing is correct.


    Went on Google today to see if there was something I needed to do, and the tips were to move the steering wheel, or.. press the gas pedal, or.. move the tilt of the wheel. I tried all of these repeatedly and the car would not start.

    -Battery is at 12.1 volts (I think 12.4 is normal? So could be low voltage?)

    -Turning key to the ignition position will turn on all electrical systems (Dash, A/C, Radio)

    -Something to do with the key or clutch pedal sensor?

    Right as I'm about to escape the heat again from many attempts in the office parking lot.. It starts.

    Thanks for any help! -Mike
  2. LikeabossTM

    LikeabossTM forum member

    I'd make sure your alternator and battery are good or replace whichever isn't. Google "battery state of charge" for numbers, yours is quite low.
  3. bujeezus

    bujeezus forum member

    My clutch switch was intermittently cutting out so I jumped the plug. Check you starter relays in the fuse box under the hood (just swap them around). Unrelated but I did wind up having to replace my starter around 100k miles.
    WJBertrand likes this.
  4. Verty13

    Verty13 Junior Member

    Will do, thanks for the info. I'm at 75,000
  5. Verty13

    Verty13 Junior Member

    Thanks. I already planned on running it to the store this weekend and getting it checked or just getting a yellow-top (or whichever optima) for it.
  6. nfrizell

    nfrizell Member

    I would lean toward clutch safety switch. Mine seems a little touchy. Could be a PATS issue with the xponder on the key. If you have another, try using it for a while.

    Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
    WJBertrand likes this.
  7. Verty13

    Verty13 Junior Member

    Thanks. I did get 2 keys, and have both with me now.. and a HALO jumpbox.

    Are there any cons to jumpering the clutch safety switch? Will only be me driving..
  8. WJBertrand

    WJBertrand forum member

    Agree with the others about jumping the clutch switch, at least as a test. Just be sure to press the clutch pedal down when starting for safety’s sake.

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  9. bujeezus

    bujeezus forum member

    I haven't had any issues.
  10. Mackitude

    Mackitude Junior Member

    I had an issue around 40k-50k miles that was as you describe. It ended up being my positive battery cable having major corrosion all the way to starter. Accessories would work but I wouldn’t get full amperage to starter about once every ten start attempts. It was very frustrating, as, like you say, it would just all the sudden work again. Saw the corrosion when I stripped the cable insulation back from terminal. Not visible at either end. Replaced the entire cable (to the tune of $120) and haven’t had the issue since.
  11. Lime1Gt

    Lime1Gt Junior Member

    At 12.1 volts I wouldn't be running out to buy a battery unless you've had it load tested or the age (may still have a month/year sticker on it) is over 5-7 years old.
    If your going through the trouble to disable the clutch safety switch for testing you should install a new one if found defective. You may be the only one driving it now as it's new to you, but someday someone, like a friend, mechanic, family, etc. may be given the keys. Now you will be liable for whatever.
  12. Glenn Ford

    Glenn Ford Junior Member

    This is a reoccurring problem with the 2012+ Mustangs, but for some reason is not reported on very often. The position terminal UNDER the rubber red shield is badly corroded even when it is periodically cleaned. As reported above it sometimes will corroded a good portion of the battery cable. You normally only need the battery terminal, but they are NOT available from Ford. You have to buy the entire positive cable to get the battery terminal. Some owners have said that battery vapors from the positive post are leaking past the post and corroding the terminal. But, this still has occurred with several new batteries? Also, trying to find a Mustang battery cable terminal in the junkyard is very difficult, because of this issue. I believe it has more to due with the corrosive resistant finish Ford put on the terminal being too thin.
  13. jewc75

    jewc75 forum member

    Terminal from ford,
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