5.0 died and will not start

Discussion in '2011+ Mustang GT 5.0L Tech' started by Synister500, Jul 3, 2011.

  1. Synister500

    Synister500 Senior Member

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    A good friend was driving her car the other day and got a P0349 code. Cam Position Sensor. She says she smelled something hot pulled over. Got out looked at car didn't see anything. Got back into car car started ran fine and CEL was gone. Then last night while driving down the road car just died, and will not start or crank, it clicks once then nothing. Lights are bright, interior lights do dim when trying to start it. It is a 2011 5.0 manual trans with steeda CAI, kooks LTH, catted x pipe steeda exhaust, Brenspeed dyno tune. I'm in Indy for the weekend, she is back in KY, and Brenspeed is closed till Tuesday. I searched for the code here and all I found was alt problems on the 3V cars. Which honestly sounds like the same kind of problem here. Cars need fuel, spark, and air to start and run. Sounds to me there is no spark but it won't even turn over. By the way she did try jumping it after it died and still nothing. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

    BJ
     
  2. techcargt

    techcargt forum member

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    Pull the red cover on the + battery post back and check the fusses there to see if they are blown .Sounds as if maybe a wire has got onto something and shorted out ,so check all the battery cables to make sure they aren't touching anything that will cause a short .
     
  3. BAKnBLK2010

    BAKnBLK2010 Harley Davidson FLHTCI

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    Yep, sounds like the positive battery cable going to the starter might have gotten against the header and fried itself. This would explain why the lights are still bright but the car only clicks when she tries to start it. I would look here first.
     
  4. chuck@evoperform

    [email protected] Boss surgeon Official Vendor

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    P0349[​IMG]Camshaft Position Sensor A circuit Intermittent (Bank 2)DescriptionThe PCM monitors the CMP circuit for an intermittent signal from the camshaft position (CMP) sensor on bank 2 (vehicles with a single CMP sensor per bank) or bank 2 sensor 1 (vehicles with dual CMP sensors per bank). For additional CMP sensor location information, refer to Section 1, Engine Control Components.
    Possible CausesIntermittent open circuit
    Intermittent short circuit
    Damaged CMP sensor shielding
    Incorrect harness connections
    Corrosion
    Damaged CMP sensor
    Diagnostic AidsHarness routing, harness alterations, incorrect shielding, or electrical interference from other systems may have an intermittent impact on the CMP signal.


    Hard to say what is going on. Will the engine crank but not start? Or will it just not crank at all?
     
  5. Synister500

    Synister500 Senior Member

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    Engine will not crank at all.

    I'll have her check the fuse.
     
  6. threetime

    threetime Close Minded Redneck

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    Maybe the starter took a shit!
     
  7. Synister500

    Synister500 Senior Member

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    She said fuses "looked" good. Im headed home and will check them with a test light when I get there. I'll also get under car and listen for starter engaging. Thanks for the help guys.

    BJ
     
  8. 2010GT

    2010GT forum member

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    When I installed my Kooks headers, I had to reposition my starter wire away from my headers. Sounds like your wire has shorted out on your header. If I was a betting man, I would bet that is what your problem is.
     
  9. RTRBURN

    RTRBURN RTRBURN MOTORSPORTS

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    Thanks for everyones help.
    It's my wifes car.
    Fuses are good on Battery terminal.
    Jacked car up and looked at the starter and header clearence. Wires have all the insulation still intact...about 1/2" from header, plus the tube closest to the wires has thermal wrap on it. It honestly acts like the engine is locked up or the Alternator is locked up tighter then a drum and the belt tension is tight enough not to allow the engine to turn over. I tried pulling codes from ECM but no codes present. I even tried loading the Factory tune back in just to give it a try but no luck.
    I was driving and I seen the gauges fall and lights light up on the instrument cluster, then I heard a sound like a when a caliper drags the rotor and a slight squeal like a belt slipping. We was doing like 30mph in town, 90 degrees outside. I just filled it up at Shell with 93 not even 20 minutes before.
    The Ironic part of the whole deal was we bought this car last July 2..which is our Wedding Anniversary.
     
  10. 2010GT

    2010GT forum member

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    Have you tried taking the serpentine belt off to see if it would turn over?
     
  11. RTRBURN

    RTRBURN RTRBURN MOTORSPORTS

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    Not yet, just got home from work.
     
  12. JerryC

    JerryC Member

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    Did you check for obvious stuff like how the coolant looks and smells, what the oil looks like?
     
  13. dj95gt

    dj95gt Junior Member

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    I was there when it happened. I checked the oil and coolant, which is fine. No mixing of the two. It may be the alternator that's the culprit, but looks like it would have thrown the belt or squeled a lot more before it shut off...Also, with the alternator not charging, looks like the car would have kept running, until you turned the switch off...IDK. Good luck Ryan, and keep us posted.
     
  14. JerryC

    JerryC Member

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    I've seen a battery with a shorted/dead cell act like that. Wont take a jump, has low voltage and no reserve when you try to crank.
     
  15. Synister500

    Synister500 Senior Member

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    Well he was able to look at after he got off work; it's not sounding good. It's not a starter, battery, or alt. problem. Going to look at it more tomorrow with fresh eyes to make sure we are not missing something stupid. Long story short, motor will not turn over even with a breaker bar.......
     
  16. 5.SLOW

    5.SLOW Senior Member

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    dont sound good at all, thats for sure
     
  17. JerryC

    JerryC Member

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    Sorry to hear that, I hope it will turn out to something cheap and easy, but it sounds more and more like really bad news.
     
  18. stangdavid

    stangdavid forum member

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    some one else suggested removing the belts and see if it would turn over. you really need to do that before thinking the worse. i say this from experience, not on my 11gt but a few months ago i bought a 00 lincoln town car from a girl who said hit did the same exact thing you describe car just stopped running wouldn't crank, couldn't jump start. so i got it real cheap. well all it turned out to be was the a/c compresser bearing had siezed up and it wouldn't allow the engine to turn even with a 3' breaker bar. the reason i knew something was wierd i was watching the belt when i had a friend try to crank it and you could see the belt loosen around the tensioner so i released pressure from the tensioer pulled belt and it cranked right up. i replace the compressor put belt back on car ran great and alt charged like it should. now on the 5.0 it's a little different as you can removed the alt belt and then check it but if the a/c pulley bearing is siezed you will have to cut the belt as it doesn't have a tensioner. even the service manual say when replacing that belt you cut the old one off and there is a special tool to install new one. either way it should be a warranty issue but if it's only a belt you may want to do it yourself because the dealer may try and use your mods to keep from working on it and they may try and void the warranty. hope this helps. david
     
  19. RTRBURN

    RTRBURN RTRBURN MOTORSPORTS

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    I took the belt off...still no luck.
    So I got looking on the net about same issue...
    Found a guy who had to have his engine replaced at 3500 miles...found out his engine ran out of oil. Engine read like 70% Oil Life, No Low Oil Level Warning lamps. Ford replaced his.
    So I went out and checked her car... NO OIL ON DIP STICK....I just checked oil back in May before I left for Japan cause she said she needed Windshield washer fluid. Oil level checked good, between the lines. There is no signs of burnt oil inside of exhaust tips. I have followed her many of times and never a puff of smoke either. I remember her oil level life said 30% the other day when the P349 code showed up. Never got a low oil level lamp or any indication of issue. I am BEYOND PISSED OFF!!!
    Trying together my senses and calm myself before I have dealership to pick the car up. I know it's not their fault, they just get stuck in the middle. I'm just curious how the Ford Engineer is going to try and prove that a Tune, CAI and Exhaust was the cause of the failure. I don't know how in a months time it lose that much oil and why no warning of oil level.
     
  20. jestang

    jestang forum member

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    Sorry to hear about your misfortune. I think remember seeing another person saying their car was using a good bit of oil on another forum. I haven't bothered to check mine. Will have to do that today I guess. What was the build date on your car? Thanks.
     
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