5r55s No Drive or Reverse

95five-0

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My 06 GT just hit 102000 miles, I think the fluid is suppose to be changed every 90,000 on the automatic trans. Well I bought my car from the dealership in 09 with 40000 on it and was told it just had new fluids. Any way yesterday I got in my car and drove about 3 miles down the road to the local store and cut the car off it was fine. Cranked back up to leave and I have no drive or reverse. Car just revs up and doesn't move much at all. It basically rocks back and forth never moving really. I can drive the car in first and manually shift it. I got it back home and put on the lift and checked the fluid in the trans and it was almost the same color as burnt motor oil not close to pink or red. It was about a qt and half low. I added it in and let the car back down still doing the same thing. Except now when I pull it down into first the tires bark on the concrete. I pulled the pan off and dump the fluid no metal shavings or anything in it. Normal grit on the magnet inside the pan. Nothing abnormal. Im going to put a new strainer in it after work and fill it up and see what happens. Anyone have any idea what could be the issue?
Thanks
 

gil_t2

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Just changing the fluid and filter is not enought, you need to flush the converter and the cooler. With the cost of the fluid , flushing , and filter I would just pull the trans and get it rebuilt.
 

95five-0

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Its my Daily driver so Im gone to try and avoid the down time as much as I can. Buddy of mine has the guages to check line pressure hopefully he will come saturday to hook it up and see what is going on there.
 

b's stang

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The same thing happened to me about 3 years ago. My torque converter ended being shot and it screwed up my tranny. Luckily it was still under warranty. Good luck with getting it figured out man. Down time is no fun.
 

b's stang

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It only happened once and when It did I was at an intersection and the car was acting normal then right as it was about to shift into second it just stopped moving. Rpms would raise when I gave it gas and that was the only thing moving. I had to row through 1,2,3 and then it finally caught and I barely got the car to a parking lot. It was horrible
 

95five-0

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Nothing had happened before on yours either? Mine had been fine never felt sluggish or anything. Worked fine for the short trip then nothing. Did you have any dtc mine has none. What did they do to fix it under warranty?
 

8306gt

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Common issue is the pressure relief valve in the front pump. If you check line pressure it will tell you if the valve is stuck open and dumping pressure. The only thing causing me to think it ma not be the problem is that it should not be able to move in any gear without pressure. I also think (IIRC) it is possible to have low and reverse even if there are other issues which won't allow it to shift, as they are more or less considered fail safe or limp mode operation and are controlled more or less mechanically and not electronically. Also just for reference my car left me stranded with similar symptoms after driving about 90 miles to meet another member at the track. I parked the car, and after letting it cool down it would not move in any forward or reverse gears. Towed the car home, replaced the pressure relief valve and it all worked fine again.
 

95five-0

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I found a 5r55s with 4xxxx miles on it near by for 400. Think that will be cheaper than having mine rebuilt and quicker to get back on the road. I'll try and fix mine so i will have a back up. In the mean time yall think itd be a good time to add a stall converter since the trans going to be out. Anyone know where i can get a used one.
 

05stroker

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I found a 5r55s with 4xxxx miles on it near by for 400. Think that will be cheaper than having mine rebuilt and quicker to get back on the road. I'll try and fix mine so i will have a back up. In the mean time yall think itd be a good time to add a stall converter since the trans going to be out. Anyone know where i can get a used one.

If you are going to do a stall do it right and get a PI converter. Stay away from the TCI shit. Its twice as much but it is also night and day in the performance of the converter.
 

95five-0

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Found one thats a 3000 and a 3500 both pi converters. The 3500 is bout half the priced. Both are 3 disk. Which would be better suited for my mods. Thinking 3500 might be to much.
 

TexasBlownV8

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Mine's priced the way it is because it's about 2/3 the price of what i paid new; and it's barely broken in. The 3k stall feel is very close to the feel of the stock converter, which I really liked; you dont have to rev to 3k just to get the car moving from a stop, which, in my opinion, I find annoying for street driving that can result with higher stalls.
 

95five-0

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Update: Put the new pressure relief valve in the trans today. Worked backing up for about 10 secs then went back to doing the same as before. Can still go in 1 2 3 normally if the rpms are right for 3rd and then can go to drive and it works fine till i slow down. What could it be now. Simply need to add more fluid because of the new converter or something else mechanically. But like i said it worked for a short period of time.
 

crownaviation

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Mine's priced the way it is because it's about 2/3 the price of what i paid new; and it's barely broken in. The 3k stall feel is very close to the feel of the stock converter, which I really liked; you dont have to rev to 3k just to get the car moving from a stop, which, in my opinion, I find annoying for street driving that can result with higher stalls.


+1. The 3000 is much better for a DD. I just about bought the one from TexasBlownV8 just because they are hard to find, it is a good price and I have purchased from him before with no issues... New is like $1200 plus shipping and when I called there was a 5 week waiting period. PI will re-stall the converter down the road if you choose to go more drag race than dd
 

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