86's VMP 1.9/Forged Build

Pentalab

forum member
Joined
Mar 5, 2013
Posts
5,211
Reaction score
1,093
Heh, no need to apologize. I guess I'll try it out and if I hate it can reinstall the stock H. Only $275 for an off road pipe here, plus labor to install a wb bung. Thanks for the information, btw. I don't know anyone else on here who has this setup.

IF you re-install the stock H..at least get rid of that silly 2.5" disc they put in there...with the puny 3/8" hole dead center in the disc. When I added the JBA LT's + mating hi-flow catted H, it got way too loud + drone. That was with FRPP FRS-500 mufflers. So in went the M80's. Local buddy has the same LT's + hi flow cats... except he has KR mufflers. He did not have to install the resonators..he has no drone and it's not loud....go figure.
 
Last edited:

eighty6gt

forum member
Joined
May 9, 2011
Posts
4,292
Reaction score
403
Any back to back tests showing aftermarket springs make power on supercharged engines with stock lift cams (127205 has .011" over stock) and moderate boost?

You could say that you have 11 psi on the face of the valve and the area is 1 square inch (do the math for a 34mm valve, subtract the stem and you'll see this is generous, ) also there is nothing but transient vacuum in the cylinder at one point - by bdc on the intake stroke when the valve is closing the pressure in the cylinder may actually be higher than in the runner or at worst case the same so the net force on the valve is 0.
 

eighty6gt

forum member
Joined
May 9, 2011
Posts
4,292
Reaction score
403
Since I'm changing my exhaust, which side would you put the WB sensor on and why? Is there actual info on which side is leaner? I may test both. Currently running a bung on the driver's side.

The thought that the side with the feed (driver's) is richer might be false logic. The other side is dead headed.
 

cronanzone

Junior Member
Joined
Dec 12, 2014
Posts
10
Reaction score
0
Glad to find this thread, I currently have a 10' roush car with a 1.9, 79mm, JBA LTs n catted H, looking at potentially beefing up my motor so I can turn it up a bit, currently it is around 8.5-9 psi. My next buy is tires though, won't hook at all even at my current power level

Jimbo good to see ur post, me n u chatted quite a bit over on Shane's site - I was pleased with my jba's per your recommendation. Only thing I've done since we last talked was add an mgw shifter, wow that mod was a few thousand miles too late....I love the way it changed the feel of my 3650
 

eighty6gt

forum member
Joined
May 9, 2011
Posts
4,292
Reaction score
403
Starting to order parts, renovating the garage with all new wiring, insulation, and sheeting while tearing apart the car at the same time, it's a gong show in there. Just picked up my hoist to pull the engine.

Going with 127350 cams and the 26113 springs, after reading 10000 threads from BruceH, etc.. I'm picking up the springs right away. I'll get some photos as I dismantle the engine and heads. Going to clean up the valves at my father in law's place as his garage is already heated. Just remove the carbon, check the valve faces and seats, and put things back together with fresh seals.

Do people usually machine the cylinder head faces before bolting them back on? I have not noticed. I think as long as they are straight and clean I can just re-assemble with new factory gaskets and head bolts.

Guess I'm going to see if I can reach 500 rwhp with the 69mm pulley, factory catalysts, 94 fuel. Kept thinking of headers/etc but that's nearly a $2000 touch. This year, some 2011+ brembo brakes are more appealing. The dollar keeps going further into the can every day.
 

skwerl

tree hugger
Joined
Aug 6, 2011
Posts
16,193
Reaction score
1,139
Location
central Florida
I picked up some JBA headers on sale for my Bullitt that were only like 6-700 dollars for the headers and H pipe. They were 3" pipe and I had to add reducers to fit them into my stock tailpipes but they were quite nice for the price. No way would I spend $2K on headers.
 
Last edited:

eighty6gt

forum member
Joined
May 9, 2011
Posts
4,292
Reaction score
403
JBA's are only about 580, h pipe is 250, double that for Canadian customers.

On the brakes for instance, 80 dollars shipping, 120 dollars "import fees," and exchange, $580 take off brakes come in at just over a grand.
 

eighty6gt

forum member
Joined
May 9, 2011
Posts
4,292
Reaction score
403
Project update: funny how life throws you curve balls all the time.

I am currently getting quotes to remove vermiculite insulation from my attic as I tried to have a bathroom fan installed.. the job went sideways, too much insulation was disturbed and spilled because the contractor wasn't experienced, the whole thing turned into a gong show fiasco and now I paid $700 to have air samples taken, am having my furnace ducts cleaned, and will probably be paying $5000-$7000 to have the material removed from my attic. Plus I was exposed to this crap during the job because I stepped in to stop work and to clean up from 8 pm until 5:30 am the next morning. Luckily I had a P100 mask on for the bulk of the time.. threw out my clothes, and a lot of other stuff.

So... looking like next fall. Also I need my house safe because my wife and I want to have a child... you know how that goes.

Still having fun on S197! I think this year will be just tying up loose ends - re wiring my 405 fuel pump again with dedicated wires from outside the hat (I don't like the crimp connections in the fuel like they are now,) polishing up the paint and just enjoying the car with 8.5-9 psi. Maybe I'll do the clutch and transmission work.
 

Pentalab

forum member
Joined
Mar 5, 2013
Posts
5,211
Reaction score
1,093
Project update: funny how life throws you curve balls all the time.

I am currently getting quotes to remove vermiculite insulation from my attic as I tried to have a bathroom fan installed.. the job went sideways, too much insulation was disturbed and spilled because the contractor wasn't experienced, the whole thing turned into a gong show fiasco and now I paid $700 to have air samples taken, am having my furnace ducts cleaned, and will probably be paying $5000-$7000 to have the material removed from my attic. Plus I was exposed to this crap during the job because I stepped in to stop work and to clean up from 8 pm until 5:30 am the next morning. Luckily I had a P100 mask on for the bulk of the time.. threw out my clothes, and a lot of other stuff.

So... looking like next fall. Also I need my house safe because my wife and I want to have a child... you know how that goes.

Still having fun on S197! I think this year will be just tying up loose ends - re wiring my 405 fuel pump again with dedicated wires from outside the hat (I don't like the crimp connections in the fuel like they are now,) polishing up the paint and just enjoying the car with 8.5-9 psi. Maybe I'll do the clutch and transmission work.

Didn't you get the home inspected beforehand ? The other thing to look out for is that Poly B plastic pipe ( used to replace hot + cold copper tubing). It's banned too. Buddy had to cough up $4K for his portion for his condo. My daughter had the same Poly B plastic pipe in her last home. Problem is, when she went to sell it, no prospective buyer could get a mortgage. So out it came, and replaced with cu tubing.

Vermiculite was used everywhere. Im sure I had small amounts of it in my 1st home. The new insulation was installed directly over the old V crap..... which was only 1" thick in most places.

The other one to watch for is urea formaldehyde insulation which was pumped into exterior walls in homes in the 60's and early 70's.

10 + 12" square tiles used in kitchen floors back in the 50's also contained asbestos. It's fine as long as you cover it up with new 3/8" sheeting then new lino etc. Then it's sealed in. But if you insist the older asbestos tiles are removed, then the gong show starts, since none of the flooring companies will touch it..... only cover it up.

Loads of 4x8 sheets of asbestos mill board used to surround wood burning stoves etc. We also used it at work to line steel hatch covers..where the cables would pass through from floor to floor in the telco. The steel hatches had to be re-cut every time a bunch of new cables installed, to conform to the shape of the mess of cables. Asbestos mill board was cut with a jig saw to match the steel. A real mess, none of us were wearing any protection, and asbestos dust flying every where, into your eyes and hair etc.

Local hospitals used both Vermiculite and loads of asbestos to insulate boiler rooms, hot water pipes, steam pipes etc. Asbestos was used on drum brakes for years too. As long as asbestos mill board is painted, it's not an issue.

The crap you find in these old homes is amazing. They didn't use Horz re-bar in basement walls back then either (50's)..which is why you end up with vert cracks in em. My 2nd house had aluminum 12 ga wire run every where..another pita.

If you install a bathroom fan, don't mess with any of the 90 cfm types, they are semi useless at best. I replaced both of mine with 310 cfm types, that use a squirrel cage blower. Motor in the middle, with a squirrel cage blower on each end. They can be configured to exhaust either vertical..or Horz. I use vert upstairs...and Horz in the downstairs bathroom. You have to be able to remove steam from a shower, as fast as you generate it.
 
Last edited:

eighty6gt

forum member
Joined
May 9, 2011
Posts
4,292
Reaction score
403
Got a loan to pay off all of my debt, fix my house - spray foam in the tiny attic, fix the fan, wiring, etc.. It will be paid off when I'm 40, that's something to think about. I don't feel old. Maybe a little bit. My mom is a nurse, one time during an emergency they were moving a patient on a gurney and it slammed into the wall. Zonolite came pouring out. Now they can't even pound a tack into the wall without guys in moon suits coming out. Sheesh.

Economy is going in the tank up here, getting harder and harder to want to spend the money I've saved on the car. I need front tires this season, hoping to pick up some side work after the snow melts for odds and ends.

I did find a 2013 GT500 exchanger for a decent deal here in Canada, BC. Free shipping, it's going out tomorrow. I'll put it on later in the year with my 82 pulley and post the results, logs vs. logs. I'll be sad removing the full face Roush exchanger I worked so hard on.

Looking at these bearings:
http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/cle-ms2259a/overview/

These rings:
http://www.jegs.com/i/Clevite/695/41787CP/10002/-1

OE replacement.

Tasca still has the gt500 oil pump for a decent deal, also the front and rear main seals, front cover gaskets, and valve stem seals. Oil pan and header gaskets should be good for reuse, intake gaskets I just did last year. I might experiment with some viton o-rings for the under intake coolant tube, with the penalty of having to remove the intake if they leak. Just so I can tell everyone they can go the local hydraulic shop instead of Ford... 1/10th the cost. Usually I walk out of there with what I need for free if it fits in my hand.

I've wanted front rotors for some time - put fresh pads on my OE rotors 2 years ago. Minor pulsation - so I'm going to get brackets from Tasca and some 2011+ rotors locally. Very minor upgrade, fairly cheap. Probably push in some fresh fluid this year. :)

I'm getting .67 US dollars for every one of mine today. I could see it dropping to .62 by the end of the week. Hope I can grab the piston rings, bearings, and harmonic balancer locally - getting a super damper.
 
Last edited:

eighty6gt

forum member
Joined
May 9, 2011
Posts
4,292
Reaction score
403
eCDvLEJ.jpg


Holy cow this thing is enormous.
 

Pentalab

forum member
Joined
Mar 5, 2013
Posts
5,211
Reaction score
1,093
eCDvLEJ.jpg


Holy cow this thing is enormous.

This IS the real deal..and to hell with 16 mph fans. At 3.125" thick, it will hold more coolant as well. Combined with the 13/14 GT-500 pump, if it doesn't do the trick, then I'd give up. About the only other thing you could do is use 100% distilled water + a lot of water wetter....for spring-summer-fall, then swap back to a 50-50 mix for winter use / storage etc. If you really wanted to go crazy, you could install a 2nd 13/14 pump in series with the 1st one. Then you would double the pressure. On paper that should result in a 1.414 increase in GPM. ( sq rt of the ratios. sq rt of 2 = 1.414). You would also have the option of using only one pump at a time, while cruising etc. It would also provide for a redundant pump. Then use both pumps when required. But a 2nd pump scenario would be a very last option.
 
Last edited:

eighty6gt

forum member
Joined
May 9, 2011
Posts
4,292
Reaction score
403
The back of this thing has flaps that will interface with the a/c condenser, which has flaps that interface with the engine radiator. I'm sure there'll be some air flow via the stock engine fan. I'm waiting to find a 2013 GT500 fan some day.

Feels like there'll be 2 gallons of coolant over the nose of the car now with this and the giant reservoir, I guess I should add some ballast to the trunk.

I wouldn't go to two pumps. Maybe one of those reprogrammed whatchamacallits, I bet they'll get cheaper with time. Same as last time I'll trial this setup and see how it performs, upgrade if required. More flow would help with my smaller (?) aftercooler core in the lower intake.

I had straight water and Royal purple, switched it for 50/50 for the winter. It is a pain to change that stuff around. Luckily I have a good refractometer to get the mix correct.


The Royal Purple purple ice caused dark colored deposits to build in my engine and intercooler recovery tanks.
 
Last edited:

Pentalab

forum member
Joined
Mar 5, 2013
Posts
5,211
Reaction score
1,093
I have never tried RP purple ice.... just redline water wetter. How much did you use with the 100% water ? Local parts store carries both. Local stock car track won't allow any glycol to be used..only 100% distilled water + water wetter. I saw folks in there buying case loads of redline ww. They sold one heluva lot of redline ww, they stock pile it.

I used 1 jug of ww in the eng...and 1/2 jug in the IC /HE loop. ( 50-50 water-glycol mix in both cases).
The trick would be squeezing in the power steering 'rad' between the HE and AC rad. Mine just barely fits with the roush HE.
 
Last edited:

eighty6gt

forum member
Joined
May 9, 2011
Posts
4,292
Reaction score
403
I already deleted my factory PS cooling loop, I have a custom small trans cooler mounted up with A/N lines. :) It will have to move a bit, I'm going to bolt it up on top of the GT500 exchanger. There's a nice flange with holes in it in a perfect spot.
 

eighty6gt

forum member
Joined
May 9, 2011
Posts
4,292
Reaction score
403
I think I'm going to need a GT500 fuel pump setup. The 405 I have in there from S&H is good for 600 crank... the pulley I want to use will put me within spitting distance, without the cams. Nice realization for a monday - another $1000. :D

At least I won't need them until later in the year. The FRPP guy said, "700 is a good number." I'll have some headroom.
 
Last edited:

Pentalab

forum member
Joined
Mar 5, 2013
Posts
5,211
Reaction score
1,093
Steeda had this setup..where you buy their kit, that adds a 2nd oem pump to your 1st oem pump, to make a dual GT-500 pump assy. I believe it was a cost effective way to arrive at a dual pump assy...without having to buy the megabuck dual GT-500 pump.

The single oem pump with bap would be good too, but probably almost maxed out in your application. The dual GT-500 pump would be the ticket..with the heavy 8/10 ga wiring. Then if you need more....at least you could then add a dual bap. If that isn't enough..then I'd give up.
 

eighty6gt

forum member
Joined
May 9, 2011
Posts
4,292
Reaction score
403
I believe the FRPP setup comes with a fresh wire you go straight to the fuse block with. I'm not sure if this feeds both driver modules. I already have the large wire to this 405 I installed. The 405 is not designed to be used with voltage booster - not sure if anyone does this.
 

Latest posts

Support us!

Support Us - Become A Supporting Member Today!

Click Here For Details

Sponsor Links

Banner image
Back
Top