Alignment...can’t meet stock spec with MM CC plates

Discussion in '2011+ Mustang GT 5.0L Tech' started by Cheeser, May 12, 2018.

  1. Cheeser

    Cheeser Junior Member

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    Finished the Koni/Eibach/MM CC plate install this weekend and took it to an alignment shop today, along with the instructions. In performing the alignment, the tech couldn't get either side to meet the stock spec of appox -0.7....couldn't get any more positive than -1.4 on either side.

    Curious if anyone else has had a similar issue? In talking with MM today, they indicated that the plates may be hitting something underneath and I may need to add a spacer if so. I took a quick look, but couldn't see anything. Will have to take the front wheels this weekend to see if I can see up in the strut. I did verify they are on correctly.

    I am a bit disappointed in spending $300 for CC plates and it cant meet the stock specs, or that I have to cobble something together.

    At this time, my alignment is:

    Camber: -1.4 / -1.4
    Caster: 6.8 / 6.9
    Toe: .12 / .12

    I took it on a toll road at 80 and drives fine. My main concern is tire wear. I was planning on autocrossing it a few times this summer where I was thinking about increasing the camber to -2.5 at the track and then put it back to the new aligned settings. Otherwise, I only drive this car about 5k per year.

    Is there anything to even worry about? Stock spec was -.7, and MM recommends -1.0.
     
    Last edited: May 12, 2018
  2. travelers

    travelers Senior Member

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    I just installed Vorshlog CC plates and one of the things they said is if you use the stock 14mm nut, that nut is on the larger side you may have to clearance the area around the opening. They have since revised there setup and has a special shoulder nut. so no problem.
     
  3. 46addict

    46addict 13726548

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    I don't think you have anything to worry about if you keep camber at -1.4 and keep the toe in spec.
     
  4. ddd4114

    ddd4114 forum member

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    You shouldn't have any issues with -1.4 deg on the street (assuming toe is near zero), but that's barely enough for track use. You'll sacrifice grip at an autocross with only -1.4 deg, but I doubt you'll overheat the outside edges of the tires like you will on a track.

    I had a Koni/Eibach setup before, but I used the Steeda HD adjustable mounts. I was able to get -2.0 deg camber with them maxed out, so I'm surprised that you can only get -1.4. Those camber plates are advertised to have 1.6 deg range of adjustment, so there has to be something restricting their movement.
     
  5. socaldoug

    socaldoug Junior Member

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    I've got the MM camber plates and got -2.0 degrees pretty easily. Are you sure the top of the strut isn't hanging up on something when you make the adjustment?

    If you drive pretty aggressively on the street, I wouldn't worry too much about tire wear.
     
  6. Cheeser

    Cheeser Junior Member

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    Based on what I have read here and other spots, looks like -1.4 should be fine...will just monitor tire wear. I will increase the negative to -2.5 or so for an actual autox event.


    Socaldoug….I can go more negative....that's not the problem. I just go any more positive than -1.4.
     
  7. 86GT351

    86GT351 forum member

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    Do you have an actual print out showing Alignment Specs? Also are you 100% sure you have Driver and Passenger side parts correct. They are reversible and will change angles tremendously.
     
  8. Cheeser

    Cheeser Junior Member

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    Yep...have the specs. Verified they were installed correctly...notches on the plates to the outside of the car.

    Mustang Alignment after lower-cropped.jpg
     
  9. msvela448

    msvela448 forum member

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    Another option so you don't have to mess with spacers is to increase the caster to about 7.5 or even 8 which will in turn increase camber when you are turning left and right during AutoX.

    Because AutoX often has much sharper turns at lower speeds than track racing the increased caster helps increase camber only when turning, but also keeps the tire flatter when going straight for better braking (more tire on the ground at only - 1.4 vs. - 2.5 )

    You could even play with - 1.0 camber and 8.0 caster, and dial in a touch of toe out (like .10 or .12.

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