Alternator brand recommendations ABS & code P0340

[msvela448]

Buy the Denso 165A from Department of Boost... $320 shipped to your door. Last alternator you will ever buy.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

 

[dark steed]

I bought mine at O'Reilly's auto parts store and haven't had an issue since ( Ultima brand). They carry a lifetime warranty, so if it craps out I get a brand new one ( not a rebuild)....easy enough to change, so I decided to go that route. Good luck.

I went this route as well, and all I can say is they do stand behind it. I’m on my third or fourth replacement already but it’s been a year or so since the last one failed. I had one that only lasted a week. I got to where I can change them out in 30 minutes or less LOL
If it goes out again I’m getting the DOB alternator.

 

[s8v4o]

I saw the alternator at Quality Power, they stated that is a 100% fit physically but the alternator will not communicate with the computer and it will throw a code that will not be able to remove. Is that your case? or it did not throw a code? Thank you for your help..

They are wrong. The alternator is "physically" the same as far as the case goes but the isolator on the back points up and will hit the manifold. You can read and see the details here https://www.s197forum.com/threads/alternator-issue.114768/page-4#post-2078532 . Once you unbolt the isolator and swap it with a different one it will fit. Basically you wan to remove this piece here ...

And replace it with something like this which is a ceramic isolator ...

To be honest though I've been using just a really hard plastic washer for a few years now and it's been working great. The alternator communicates just find with the ECU and I haven't had any issues whatsoever. Just yesterday I went to a local company that rebuilds alternators/starters and they gave me a ceramic isolator just like the white one in the picture above. The one I got only has a small lip where the cylinder part is and fit PERFECTLY.

 

[1950StangJump$]

You guys are upgrading your power cable when going to that many amps, right?

 

[RED09GT]

Let us know if it fixes the cam code issue. I dropped my alternator on the floor when I built my motor and now I have every P034x code with locked out cams.

 

[bambam 06]

They are wrong. The alternator is "physically" the same as far as the case goes but the isolator on the back points up and will hit the manifold. You can read and see the details here https://www.s197forum.com/threads/alternator-issue.114768/page-4#post-2078532 . Once you unbolt the isolator and swap it with a different one it will fit. Basically you wan to remove this piece here ...

And replace it with something like this which is a ceramic isolator ...

To be honest though I've been using just a really hard plastic washer for a few years now and it's been working great. The alternator communicates just find with the ECU and I haven't had any issues whatsoever. Just yesterday I went to a local company that rebuilds alternators/starters and they gave me a ceramic isolator just like the white one in the picture above. The one I got only has a small lip where the cylinder part is and fit PERFECTLY.

s8v40, thank you for your prompt replied, i will now get a Mitsubishi 200 amps alternator. Probably from ebay..

 

[s8v4o]

You guys are upgrading your power cable when going to that many amps, right?

No I haven't. I haven't done anything that would warrant my system to pull that many AMPS yet. If I had a killer audio system or something I would. If you do decide to do the main power wire upgrade it wouldn't be hard to do though. At the time when I bought the REMY 12622 I got it right around 100 bucks (at cost) so I mostly bought it because of the price and I didn't want to go back with the 6G alternator. The extra AMPS was nice but wasn't the selling feature for me.

FYI - Looks like that REMY 12622 sells for about 180 on AMAZON.

 

[1950StangJump$]

No I haven't. I haven't done anything that would warrant my system to pull that many AMPS yet. If I had a killer audio system or something I would. If you do decide to do the main power wire upgrade it wouldn't be hard to do though. At the time when I bought the REMY 12622 I got it right around 100 bucks (at cost) so I mostly bought it because of the price and I didn't want to go back with the 6G alternator. The extra AMPS was nice but wasn't the selling feature for me.

FYI - Looks like that REMY 12622 sells for about 180 on AMAZON.

Good info, thanks. I'm thinking about doing this just to have more juice. I have the VMP intercooler, which has dual fans. Between just those fans and the intercooler pump, they pull 30 amps alone. Combine that with the A/C, radiator fan, and various other components, and I wonder whether my 115 amp alternator is enough. With everything running, voltage will drop under 13.5.

My problem . . . DOB says the Denso won't fit with Kenne Bell setup. I assume its a clearance issue, but I'm not sure what part of the alternator conflicts with the KB. So, I don't know if the REMY would have the same problem.

A quick google search shows them as low as $125 for remanufactured.

Also . . . Did you have to change the pulley?

 

[s8v4o]

I'm not familiar enough with the KB setup to know why the Denso won't work. If you pull up pictures of all 3 REMY units 12983 (2010 DENSO unit), 23795 (factory 2007 6G), and the 12622 (2007 Crown Vic Mitsubishi unit) you can see the differences. The 23795 and the 12622 are pretty much the same except the B+ connector. You can clearly the the Denso is slightly different. In answer to your question though I left the decoupler pulley that came on it.

 

[1950StangJump$]

I appreciate that thoughtful response.

Last thing .... when you go to PA Performance’s site, they list the max output of the alternators (eg 215 amps) and then the output at idle (eg 80 amps). I can’t find that data for the REMY you used. Any idea?

I ask cause DOB has a bit about some of the high amp alternators being not as good when you’re not dogging the car. Not sure I buy it, but something to consider ....

 

[N2STC]

I saw the alternator at Quality Power, they stated that is a 100% fit physically but the alternator will not communicate with the computer and it will throw a code that will not be able to remove. Is that your case? or it did not throw a code? Thank you for your help..

Very interesting. At least they were honest.
I have replaced it with a new one from Rock Auto. Good price and got here quickly. The ECM monitored voltage seems much more constant. Time will tell. Thanks to everyone. Stay tuned.......

 

[bambam 06]

Very interesting. At least they were honest.
I have replaced it with a new one from Rock Auto. Good price and got here quickly. The ECM monitored voltage seems much more constant. Time will tell. Thanks to everyone. Stay tuned.......

Did it throw a code? or are you ok.

 

[bambam 06]

Did it throw a code? or are you ok.

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NNE1N8498
Does it look like this one, i am getting it tomorrow.

 

[N2STC]

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NNE1N8498
Does it look like this one, i am getting it tomorrow.

Did it throw a code? or are you ok.

The power post comes off of the back straight, not at a right angle like the one you inked. So far it's OK, but I haven't driven too for yet.

 

[bambam 06]

i got mine this morning,removed the B+ post it came off straight up not at an angle. It will be a couple of days before i have time to install it. I just need to get the ceramic isolator.

 

[1950StangJump$]

I ordered the 215 amp Crown Vic Interceptor alternator today, but I also ordered a kit to upgrade the power wire to a 1/0 gauge with an inline 250 amp fuse. I wanted a better wire because I’m pulling extra amps with the intercooler pump and dual fans (those items are 30 amps alone).

That 1/0 gauge wire kit was an overkill, I realize, but just as cheap as buying the PA Performance wire kit, which is only rated to 200 amps with a 200 amp fuse. Not sure if the 15 extra amps max from the alternator would have mattered (probably not), but I figured better safe than sorry.

It would also appear that the previous owner upgraded the power wire, but he used no fuse and I can’t tell if it’s a #4 or #6 AWG wire. So, again, figured I’d better change it to be safe.

I’m actually hopeful that there is room to keep the isolator on the new alternator with my Kenne Bell. I’ll report back in a week or so on how it went ....

 

[bambam 06]

I just ordered the PA power wire, it will arrive on Thursday.

 

[1950StangJump$]

I just ordered the PA power wire, it will arrive on Thursday.

Looking at the reviews, a bunch of guys complained it was about 6 inches shorter than optimum. I suspect they cut it close cause the #4 AWG was only rated for 200 amps up to that length; any longer would require thicker wire for 200 amps. Or, they were making one for multiple models, so there was give and take for each. Or they were just being cheap

Will be curious to hear if you have any issues ....

 

[bambam 06]

Will let you know when it gets here. Even if is short by 2 inches then i won't fit.

 

[1950StangJump$]

No dice for me. The 12622 came today. First off, the isolator had been bent and broken. Even if I wanted to remove it, and quick fit test revealed it would not fit with the KB. I guess I'll be buying the overpriced PA Performance 200 amp.

Interesting note, the previous owner had put in a 135 amp Carquest alternator . . . and had taken the time to upgrade the cable to what looks like a #4 AWG.