I just recently purchased a 2012 Ford Mustang GT Premium, it has come with a multitude of issues. One of which being the clutch pedal being crooked to the left, which I believe could be causing the issues i will now state. Whenever I shift at high RPM’s, the clutch pedal will stick to the floor, and i will be unable to go into any gears until i lift the pedal off the floor and push it down again. That or it takes an extra 3 seconds to shift. Cruising around its perfectly fine and normal, except for when the clutch pedal kinda gets hung up when its -almost- at rest, then it will go back into position. Another issue I’m having is grinding it 4th above 4.5k (gets lower on cold drives) I have to wait to shift or it will grind. If Im doing donuts or anything high rpm, my clutch will stick half way down AS WELL AS not have full braking ability. It will feel like theres no pressure and i wont be able to stop quickly. And then there’s other issues such as my differential not acting like a LSD all the time (worn clutch packs?) and my AC vents clicking upon start up or when I change to certain vents among other things.
You have a worn out clutch. Keep driving forcing the shift and you will have a worn out transmission. (If not already damaged) The pedal was probably overstresses by the worn out clutch. The clutch/brake pedal assembly is attached to a PLASTIC frame, which more than likley is cracked now. I just had mine out to do the clutch master and could not believe my eyes. Plastic shit.
So new clutch, got it Does this mean i should drop $400 on a new pedal assembly? (Quoted from parts department, i work at a dealership) Will my clutch master need replacing since the pedal is so far off center, too? my braking issues also caused by the worn out clutch? I know they’re connected at the reservoir but would high rpms have that much effect on my brakes ? Last time i went to a show i tried to stop, slammed on the brakes and the car kept moving forward.
Pull the pedal assembly and check it. There are bushings that maybe gone. Its not that hard to remove the pedals. Remove driver seat. Disconnect clutch line under hood, have rags or paper towels as it will leak brake fluid. Under dash: unplug the switches. Remove clip on brake pedal that attaches the master cylinder rod. Remove the 6 bolts holding the frame to the dash/firewall. Remove 4 nuts holding the brake booster. You should now be able to remove the two pedals and braket. This is from memory.
And, if you want it to last, quit driving like a teenager. Seriously - get everything pulled & fix what's jacked (per advised).
Thats just how the car came lmao, 87k miles and has a BAMA tune plaque in the glovebox, contacted them and they told me it used to have all kinds of upgrades (all stock when i purchased) so it explains why everything is f***ed on it lol now it’s on me to fix and upgrade so it can handle my driving habits
