BMR Poly UCA without the mount

[Norm Peterson]

At Full Droop... you do not need to monkey with the tank at all. The UCA and the mount will come out and go back in. Piece of chocolate cheesecake. Here taking tank straps off means replacing them.

What year is your S197?


Norm

 

[WNYGT5-0]

What year is your S197?


Norm

Mine specially is an 06, but I’ve done many in the shop and on the concrete floor. 2014 is tight but still manageable.

my advice to the OP, is to go with the UCA and the proper mount. I mean, why tune for 93 and pump 87 in? You’re already there and time is money, lots of others have spent there time and money for you. Do it right the first time or do it again the right way. It’s your choice really.

 

[ghunt81]

That wasn't my experience...I could not work the mount out without lowering the tank a little.

 

[skwerl]

Last question, is there ANY way I can do this without lowering the tank? I see mixed reviews, and if keeping the OEM mount, I thought maybe.

I did mine without lowering the tank but I pulled the driveshaft to get it out of my way. I think. It was years ago and my memory is gone. Regardless, once you are under there and doing it, if you need to drop one side of the tank it's just a couple more bolts.

What I discovered is that the BMR items require grease way more often than you'd expect. Mine squeaked a lot considering how little I drove the car. Plan on jacking it up and greasing it every single oil change.

 

[Norm Peterson]

What I discovered is that the BMR items require grease way more often than you'd expect. Mine squeaked a lot considering how little I drove the car. Plan on jacking it up and greasing it every single oil change.

If you ever have the need (or opportunity) to pull those arms off for re-lubing or refurbishing, try modifying the poly before putting them back on the car.

If you're sufficiently sensitive to such things, noticing a little wheel slip when cornering at low speed under only a little throttle will be your clue to re-lube, because the poly will still be quiet.


Norm

 

[1950StangJump$]

I don't get how you guys with the early S197s are installing the mount without dropping the tank a couple inches. If you're doing a new UCA with the stock mount left in place, I get it.

On my 2008, there was no way to get the BMR mount on without getting the tank out of the way a little. Later, I went back and upgraded to the larger 2011+ mount and UCA. It also needed the tank dropped (as well as the lip of the tank bent down to clearance the larger UCA).

After numerous conversations with BMR, I learned that the tanks on the new S197s were molded a little different and had the room to get the mount up there without lowering the tank.

EDIT: I wonder if its possible Ford used more than one supplier for the tanks, and the molds were slightly different from tank to tank.

 

[Midlife Crises]

On my 2010 GT I could not remove the UCA mount without lowering the tank. There is not enough room to withdraw the upper control arm bolt either let alone torque it correctly.

 

[WNYGT5-0]

I don't get how you guys with the early S197s are installing the mount without dropping the tank a couple inches. If you're doing a new UCA with the stock mount left in place, I get it.

On my 2008, there was no way to get the BMR mount on without getting the tank out of the way a little. Later, I went back and upgraded to the larger 2011+ mount and UCA. It also needed the tank dropped (as well as the lip of the tank bent down to clearance the larger UCA).

After numerous conversations with BMR, I learned that the tanks on the new S197s were molded a little different and had the room to get the mount up there without lowering the tank.

EDIT: I wonder if its possible Ford used more than one supplier for the tanks, and the molds were slightly different from tank to tank.

On my 2010 GT I could not remove the UCA mount without lowering the tank. There is not enough room to withdraw the upper control arm bolt either let alone torque it correctly.

This video mimics everyone of my experiences. CJPP has a similar video showcasing the BMR UCA and mount. Same there. No touchy the tank. Believe me the tank isn’t a hindrance. Everything is easily torqued.

 

[ghunt81]

I did mine without lowering the tank but I pulled the driveshaft to get it out of my way. I think. It was years ago and my memory is gone. Regardless, once you are under there and doing it, if you need to drop one side of the tank it's just a couple more bolts.

What I discovered is that the BMR items require grease way more often than you'd expect. Mine squeaked a lot considering how little I drove the car. Plan on jacking it up and greasing it every single oil change.

I went with the J&M upper (with their special 3-piece bushing) for this reason, I didn't want to have to lube it and I knew it would be a huge pain in the ass to get at if I did. I haven't heard any squeaks at all since installing the upper.

 

[WNYGT5-0]

I went with the J&M upper (with their special 3-piece bushing) for this reason, I didn't want to have to lube it and I knew it would be a huge pain in the ass to get at if I did. I haven't heard any squeaks at all since installing the upper.

Why not just mount a remote accessible zirc? Easily grease-able from inside the trunk and protected from the elements.

 

[GlassTop09]

Something like that. I did this for the LCAs on a 1979 Chevy Malibu (triangulated 4-link rear suspension much like the Fox/SN95).

I haven't worked out the details for any S197 application yet, other than you probably don't need or want to drill any more than a quarter of the way in from each end in order to release a significant amount of 'bind'. Drill bit size and the number and orientation of holes as seen in side view are still up in the air.

View attachment 72298




Yes, the amount of pinion angle change is reduced, and I'm pretty sure that SVIC (commonly known as simply "instant center") migration is reduced as well.


Norm

Thanks for the response!
I kinda figured that was what you were getting at.
Will keep this in mind for future reference.

 

[Midlife Crises]

That’s a nice Video of somebodies happy world but that is not the car or the mount and control I was talking about. On my 2010 I can get to the three bolts for the mount, no problem. The bolt on top of the differential is no problem either. The problem is the mount will not come out of the pocket it is in without lowering the tank a little. Then it slips right out. Also the vid. shows mounting the control arm to the mount on the bench. There is no way in hell you can do that on my car in place. It has to be done out of the vehicle. Just like they showed.

 

[WNYGT5-0]

The problem is the mount will not come out of the pocket it is in without lowering the tank a little. Then it slips right out. Also the vid. shows mounting the control arm to the mount on the bench. There is no way in hell you can do that on my car in place. It has to be done out of the vehicle. Just like they showed.

This perfect world scenario replicated by many novice Mustang Mechanics is geared more for you sir.

 

[Midlife Crises]

I did not see him use a torque wrench on either end of the control arm and that upper bracket didn’t come out did it.

 

[ghunt81]

Why not just mount a remote accessible zirc? Easily grease-able from inside the trunk and protected from the elements.

Sounds like a lot of effort vs. just going with a no-lube setup like the J&M.

 

[Norm Peterson]

I did not see him use a torque wrench on either end of the control arm and that upper bracket didn’t come out did it.

Nope.

He very specifically said that the mount was "technically disconnected from the vehicle" (as opposed to physically removed and set aside), "our control arm is no longer connected to anything else", and "avoiding the whole gas tank ordeal".

Maybe that works for replacing same with same, but it sure doesn't help if you want to either upgrade an older car to the newer cars' UCA setup or give yourself some option in setting antisquat.


Norm

 

[Pentalab]

OP, do you plan on addressing the upper differential bushing as well because all you keep referencing the poly UCA and its mount. the upper diff bushing is likely shot by this point and needs replaced as well. IMHO I would go with a poly insert as trying to get the stock one in there is a big PITA. not saying gutting the old one is much easier but it is, you just have to use the metal sleeve and gut the old rubber out.

Whoa. BMR told me NOT to use a poly to poly combo at each end of the uca. It will bind badly.
BMR suggested since I installed their 05-10 poly, adjustable UCA + BMR UCA mount, to use a steeda spherical at the differential end of the UCA. OR replace with another OEM ford rubber type bushing at differential end of uca. BMR read me the riot act about using a poly to poly combo.

BMR does make a hd poly bushing for differential end of uca..which is why I thought of using it. BMR said...'no way'. At least one end of the uca has to be able to rotate on it's axis a bit. The oem uca was rubber bushings at both ends.

Oem rubber bushing at differential end of uca is easily trashed if you have any amount of wheel hop. I saw go- pro footage of the differential oem rubber bushing being just trashed to hell, when the fellow got on it in a street race. Oem differential bushing can be removed with the correct size hole saw..from each side. Then hole cleaned up with the correct sized wire brush...again from each side.

On my 2010, the gas tank had to be dropped.....so I let the tank get down to about 1/8. With the tank full, the gas inside the tank weighs 100.6 lbs. (+ the weight of the tank itself).

 

[Midlife Crises]

I think I saw that wheel hop footage also. Makes sense to use the spherical bushing on the diff. with the stiff poly on the other end of the arm. Wish I would have thought of that.

 

[GriffX]

Has someone an advice how to torque the differential bushing bolt on ride high? I have J&M Extreme LCAs and want to install the OEM 11+ UCA (car from 07).
Thanks

 

[Pentalab]

I think I saw that wheel hop footage also. Makes sense to use the spherical bushing on the diff. with the stiff poly on the other end of the arm. Wish I would have thought of that.

A poly at differential end...and a spherical at front end will also work. At least one end has to be able to rotate /twist a bit. Then factor in NVH. Sphericals at both ends works superb...but results in excess NVH.