Bolt on power

Discussion in 'Drift Racing Tech Discussion' started by OutlawEvans, Jul 27, 2017.

  1. OutlawEvans

    OutlawEvans forum member

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    well for my drift build I'm at the point where I want to go faster. Whats my best bolt on power options? I'm not looking to go nuts yet, in the future I do see turb or super charging
     
  2. stkjock

    stkjock ---- Madmin ---- Staff Member S197 Team Member

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    Tune
    Cams
    Headers
    Gears
     
  3. zorph01

    zorph01 Junior Member

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    Cams aren't exactly bolt-on, and if he's looking for a shop to do it he will pay more for install then all the other mods combined.

    Gears are a good option and if you should probably throw in a Torson diff while you're in there. Also c clip eliminators so your wheels don't go rolling away when you break an axle...

    Headers if you can do them yourself, and a tune.

    Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
     
  4. JUSTA3V

    JUSTA3V Moar Throttle!

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    Why are cams not considered a bolt on mod? He asked for for best power options. Cams is one of them hands down.
     
  5. zorph01

    zorph01 Junior Member

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    Because cams do not simply, "bolt on"...

    Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
     
  6. stkjock

    stkjock ---- Madmin ---- Staff Member S197 Team Member

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    Does one use glue?
     
  7. Wes06

    Wes06 forum member

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    My supercharger bolted on.
    It's bolt on right?
    What about my forged rotating assembly.
    The rod caps bolt on.
     
  8. JUSTA3V

    JUSTA3V Moar Throttle!

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    good grief.
     
  9. 46addict

    46addict 13726548

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    Make sure whatever you get will be compatible with the forced induction of your choosing. i.e. long tubes with an NA/blower cam won't work well with a turbo and underdrive pulleys will have to come off when installing a blower. Also aftermarket throttle bodies are generally a waste of money and for what it's worth I've had two different tuners tell me BBK TBs are junk.

    But yes, if the parts don't require custom fabbing they might as well be bolt ons. :D
     
  10. OutlawEvans

    OutlawEvans forum member

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    Yeah asking bolt on but if there's any other bang for the buck things then for sure I'll go that way. I was looking at little things I could do now as I'm deciding which way to go for forced induction.

    Btw anyone have input on which forced induction type/kit to go with? Been looking at centrifugal super chargers
     
  11. 46addict

    46addict 13726548

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    On a drift car you might be happier with a turbo. I would think blower belts and tensioners don't like to be banged off the rev limiter while going sideways.
     
  12. OutlawEvans

    OutlawEvans forum member

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    So other than forced induction my best route is headers and cams? Other things like throttle bodies and such are pretty useless?
     
  13. dre256

    dre256 forum member

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    I don't have dyno numbers and I thought was a bunch of BS but on my 5.0 going from 80mm to 84.5mm throttle body had a noticeable mid RPM gain from 2500-4500. Above that felt the same and below felt the same.
     
  14. fdjizm

    fdjizm Drag Queen

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    Nobody said throttle body spacer yet?
     
  15. fourdegrees11

    fourdegrees11 forum member

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    Is this a 3v or a coyote?
     
  16. OutlawEvans

    OutlawEvans forum member

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    3V sorry, forgot to include that
     
  17. RocketcarX

    RocketcarX 95% of my weight is fuel

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    Gears first, the engine is the wrong end of the car to start on.

    Gears and tune (tune will be required)
    Stage 2+ clutch
    Learn to drive
     
  18. OutlawEvans

    OutlawEvans forum member

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    Got 4.10 gears already.
    And okay will do!
     
  19. RocketcarX

    RocketcarX 95% of my weight is fuel

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    Now you need a clutch capable of snapping the rear tires loose, the stock clutch will not stand it long.
    Who tuned the car when you did the gears?
    4.56 would have been my gear choice in order to have flexibility with rear tire diameter, unless you are drifting at speeds above 115 MPH or so more often than lower speed stuff.
    A car set up for drifting needs to be able to break traction a lot more easily than any "compromise" gear set is going to allow.
    Once the gears are set and you have a clutch that has a lot of initial grip, I would look at twin screws or roots type superchargers, that was the power is available through the entire range instead of peak rpm and high load situations like a turbo or centrifugal blower.
    You will also need much stiffer rear control arms, heim joints even, this way the power isn't absorbed and the tired gets the full "hit" when you side step the clutch.