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Judging by what everyone is saying it gets you a little bit concerned about buying heads with the bronze guides. But after reading what Mike is saying it does make sense for most applications to dissipate heat but it seems to be causing more harm than good in some applications. Would there be a way to make sure this wouldn't happen if you needed Stage 3 heads for a N/A application since you wouldn't need the bronze guides but would require the oversized valves and ported heads?
It's fairly application specific, you can make cast iron (powdered guides) work just fine in a lot of applications with attention to the setup, machine work, seals, etc. The same can be said for bronze guides as well, with the correct setup they can be made to last also and work well in applications that you want to maximize getting rid of heat and keeping the valve from getting to hot.
As an astute member brought to my attention it's also important to note that there are differences between a race only car and a street car. A full out race car might not ever see full temperature at the drag strip, it also most likely will only be under full power for a short period of time. The conditions that take place in this application require different methods and setups because the heat range might be different, meaning that a race car sees a very high temperature for a very short period of time, where as a street car might see a moderate temperature for a very long period of time. Think of a 7 second drag car. It might be lit in the pit and lanes and then run a pass, all of which is less than 8 seconds under full power and maybe less than a couple minutes of engine run time. The parts and components have to be designed different to withstand this extreme temp for a very short period of time. In comparison you might take your 800RWHP engine out and drive it to work back and forth 50 miles, it might sit in traffic jam in a 95 degree day for an hour. It might make a couple of high speed blasts on the freeway. All of these things will produce a different engine scenario that requires a different setup to make it work. In most cases the better the cooling system as a whole is at removing heat from the engine the happier the parts will be. But every application is different and needs to be thought of ahead of time.
Yes, this could be accomplished by specifying that the stock guides are desired in the head build, so essentially just ask for a set of stage 3 heads, but with stock guides. The only thing that needs to be paid attention to is in regards to the stems of the aftermarket valves to ensure the sizing is the same as the stock valves, if they are smaller, ever by a little they might not work with the stock guides because the clearance would be too large
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Mike/Livernois
So, what is the proper valve to guide clearance for a 700-800 rwhp motor with bronze guides?
This is an area where "proper" is more up to interpretation by the engine builder/cylinder head guy. Everyone has their own method and spec they use, so you could ask 10 cylinder head guys this question and get 10 different answers, the average of those answers though will probably be close though. Also the application in a lot of cases would determine any small tweaks to the clearance. But if you were looking for a range that I would think they would fall into for a 6mm stem I would guess .0006-.0008 Intake and .0012-.0014 Exhaust.
It would be interesting to know what the stem to guide clearance is on the other valves. FWIW, I tear down every aftermarket head that I get into the shop. What I normally see is hour glassing. If the inside of the guide looks like an hourglass, then the guides were honed with way too much over stroke at the top and bottom. Then, when the assembler checks the clearance, it would appear that everything is fine even though the middle of the guide is tight. I see a lot of after market heads with this problem.
Agreed, this is definitely an area where the machine work needs to be right. If the guides are not straight +/- .0001 then they are going to get ugly pretty quick. On a 3 valve with the small guide size and very minimal contact area there is not much support on the valve, so when you hourglass a guide and make that area of support for the valve even smaller it does not take long for the valve to really heavily wear the guide and the clearance to get big quickly. Seems like the best method to prevent this is somebody that is sharp with their honing skills and can keep the guides straight, or with reaming the guides. Both methods require pretty close attention to detail to make sure that you get it right. We've upgraded tooling a couple of times over the years and have to go through a fair amount of training with someone before they can hone guides, the small stem stuff 5mm and 6mm is usually the trickiest to do. Definitely a finesse thing doing it right, I agree 100% on this.