Clutch problems

JeremyH

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So I'm pretty sure the new slave is shot. Its not leaking any fluid but I have vac pumped it a dozen times and pumped the shit out of the clutch pedal. Still cant get into 1st gear or reverse. And can barely get into 2nd to drive around and after a minute or two the clutch starts going away again. Setup is oem slave, ss sline, 6060, fidanza flywheel, and rst. I think the dry ss line and dry new slave just trapped alot of air in the slave and it compressed and failed internaly. It has a nice squeek/whine to it.

What ya think?

 
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NjsGT

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Is the pedal just flat? No PP feedback?
 

JeremyH

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The slave moves as you can hear it, just not enough pressure on the clutch to do anything. The pedal feels alot better/firmer so im sure all the air is out now. Just the slave not working right.
 

NjsGT

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I know this is a brain dead question, but you deff have enough fluid in it right? Im just not sure why it would fail like that.... Did you by any chance have it hooked up and then pushed the pedal in without the slave being able to push into the PP? I know you can mess them up doing that....
 

2NY

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I thought I read that you should pump some fluid into the new line before installing it. And I would give a shop a buzz that deals with this stuff normally and get their opinion such as brenspeed. I had to call them the other day cause i didnt know which connector to take off on the outside of the trans to disconnect the slave and i was helped out in minutes and it worked great.
 
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BruceH

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That's the sqeak mine made after it had failed. I gambled a little with my first clutch install, went with a centerforce and didn't change the slave. Worked great for a month or so then hard shifting, first and reverse became impossible. I added a shim to the slave, then the squeak, then the car would move when running even with the clutch in. I pulled that damn trans 4 times within about a month.

I'm sorry you have to pull it again Jeremy. At least this time you won't have to fight that damn ear the 3650's have.
 

chuck@evoperform

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When doing a clutch, I always replace the slave. When installing the new slave, before I bolt into the bell housing, I pop the dust cap off (the little white cap that goes over the clutch line connector), open a NEW bottle of DOT 3 brake fluid, compress the slave all the way down by hand, put the clutch line connection in the bottle of brake fluid, and slowly release the bearing keeping the connection below the fluid level in the bottle.

Once I am putting the tranny back in, I jack the tranny up into place, but before I seat the tranny to the block, I reconnect the clutch line, so when i push the tranny in and seat it on the block, it depresses the slave helping to push any air as far as possible up so that it is easier to vacuum bleed it.

Also as a little trick, I took an old slave, cut the connector off and crimped the line off, so when I disconnect the clutch line from the tranny, I can connect the cut connector to the line to prevent it from dripping the contents of the brake resevoir onto the floor.
 

NjsGT

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When doing a clutch, I always replace the slave. When installing the new slave, before I bolt into the bell housing, I pop the dust cap off (the little white cap that goes over the clutch line connector), open a NEW bottle of DOT 3 brake fluid, compress the slave all the way down by hand, put the clutch line connection in the bottle of brake fluid, and slowly release the bearing keeping the connection below the fluid level in the bottle.

Once I am putting the tranny back in, I jack the tranny up into place, but before I seat the tranny to the block, I reconnect the clutch line, so when i push the tranny in and seat it on the block, it depresses the slave helping to push any air as far as possible up so that it is easier to vacuum bleed it.

Also as a little trick, I took an old slave, cut the connector off and crimped the line off, so when I disconnect the clutch line from the tranny, I can connect the cut connector to the line to prevent it from dripping the contents of the brake resevoir onto the floor.
That works great... I did that this winter and it prob chopped off alot of time bleeding or trying to work the air out of the slave....
Also, you have some more good ideas too... I didnt connect my line till after I mated the trans and block up... Oh well, next time ill know haha... Thanx for the post chuck
 

JeremyH

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I ordered a new slave its on its way, i will try to fill it with fluid this time and see how things go.
 

JeremyH

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That's the sqeak mine made after it had failed. I gambled a little with my first clutch install, went with a centerforce and didn't change the slave. Worked great for a month or so then hard shifting, first and reverse became impossible. I added a shim to the slave, then the squeak, then the car would move when running even with the clutch in. I pulled that damn trans 4 times within about a month.

I'm sorry you have to pull it again Jeremy. At least this time you won't have to fight that damn ear the 3650's have.


Yeah, this def sucks, thanks for the advice, im sure the slave is done for..
new one should be here monday.
 

1fastpony

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That blows...

Yrs ago I spoke with A DORMAN Tech on their tech line. He highly advised me to bench bleed the slave before installing to tranny. Then when you mate the tranny to block with or without line hookup there is fluid within the unit. Next I connect the line and pull a couple of vacums. MAN THE AIR BUBBLES. Once you see no air bubbles then close off resevoir and the clutch peedle should be 2/3 up. Then maybe 2-3 minutes of pumping slowly and she's ready. 5-10 minutes tops.

Lightblade,I found out my ss line was not making a complete seal and seeping at one end. Not enuff to drip on ground but enuff to cause my clucth peddle fade during warm temps or high revs. Put the OE one back on and no seeping, better clutch feel. Thinks I might change out the clucth master cylinder too.

Anyone know the symptoms of a bad Clutch MS?

You might want to change yours as well. To many high revs and luanches take their toll. Think mine about had it.
 
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JeremyH

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Yeah I wll be inspecting the line when the new slave goes in and def putting fluid in it first. If this doesnt solve the problem a new master clyinder is next on the list.
 
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I feel your pain, I just installed a Mach 500 in my car, it comes with a new Slave, and the darn thing won't bleed out, I'll try jacking up the drivers side and pumping, if that don't work then the vacuum bleeder, if that don't work it might be an insurance claim... why, oh why, did I modify.......
 

Riptide

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lol one of the several reasons I am not looking forward to a clutch install on this bitch. Why does it have to be such a pita? :)
 

1fastpony

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It aint rocket science folks. Just bench bleed it first. 10 minutes tops to bleed at most. The system once the clutch comes up a little will self bleed while driving to get the last ~10% or so out and come up all the way. The old way to lift the driver side up without bench bleeding might take as long a 30 minutes...maybe more depending on how patient you are with the pedel.

Now the bench bleeding does take a little time and patient too. Use a syringe.
 
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fdjizm

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Yea def. not doing my own clutch work lol.
play that video and close your eyes.
 

gtcs07

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i got to pissed at my stock slaves so i bit the bullet and put in a Ram Hd and have had very good luck with it since
 

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