Hey all! Sorry for the wall of text First off I'd like to say that this forum has helped me through the tougher spots of a Coyote Swap especially because this is my first time doing anything of this sort. I had initially started working on the swap starting March 2022 and had slowly chipped away at it until I was almost ready to first fire, but then I had a tragic loss in the family that shook me to my core. In all honesty I lost any type of motivation to work on this project and it was just sitting in my garage untouched. Recently I have been able to regain my motivation with help from my family, and am finally ready to dive back into it As stated in the title I am having trouble with the wiring, more specifically where I should start my troubleshooting. I was able to reach out to Matt Soppa on YT and gain access to his knowledge on the Wiring for an early S197 and I followed it to the T. He was very helpful, and I believe I was able to follow the sheet to the best of my ability. Once I got the wiring to a spot I was comfortable with, I placed the engine and trans back in the car and tied things back together with the best of my ability. With the wiring I had already completed, I was able to power on the electronics and get the vin for the PCM for the tune, so I was already pretty happy about that. Once I received and loaded the tune, and tried to turn the engine over to build oil pressure, nothing happened. When I turn the key to the Start and Run Position, the car acts as if I don't have the clutch depressed at all. I have a few theories as to why that is, but would like an experts opinion as to why this may be the case so I can start chasing the electrical gremlins. So here's what I've been able to deduce: What I know: The fuses, and relays that correspond with the starter are fine. I heard the fuel pump prime when I turned the key to the On position, and switched the relay with the Starter Relay to make sure that it still worked. It did, which rules out that the Relay was bad. The battery and Starter were both new and I had no reason to believe that they are gone. I then tried the starts with the jumper pack that I have and ran into the same issues. I don't get any PATS warnings or Dashboard warnings when the key is in the on position at all, as I did have PATS deleted. I was also able to read the vin without issue. This may not matter at all, but outside of the engine not turning over, everything else works as it should. My Theories: When I had a friend come over to try and help me troubleshoot, I used a multi-meter to try to locate where a voltage drop may be. I initially started with the fusebox, but it was getting the full 12v without issue. Then I moved through out my wiring and the Transmission Harness and finally came across the culprit. The Starter feed wire (the smaller wire that gets 12v when the key is in on and Star/Run) did not get the 12v when the key was in the on position or in the Start/Run Position. Even with the clutch pedal pressed all the way in that wire did not receive voltage at all. Theory 1: My wiring for the Starter specific circuit is off/bad/wrong. I followed Matt Soppa's sheet to the T, but with how little I am experienced with wiring, it is entirely possible that I messed up somewhere. I don't thing I got any mixed up at all, but I more so believe that the splices I made for the starter circuit were probably insufficient/bad. I am totally willing to go back and redo them, I just more or less need a place to start and/or target Theory 2: My Wiring for the Neutral Safety Switch circuit is off/Bad/Wrong. I think this one is less likely, because when I had my multimeter to the wire that is supposed to have a voltage change when the Clutch is pressed all the way in did indeed show a voltage drop on the multi-meter. I may be wrong on that though, so I'm not ruling it out either. For reference, My car is a Base 08 GT 5-Speed Manual that now has a 14 Coyote with the matching PCM, EPAS Out of a 13 GT Premium, and a TR-6060 out of an 07 GT500. I hope that I was able to provide enough info so that I properly conveyed the issues I'm facing! I am completely open to any and all help on this subject. Thanks!
Since you have an 08 the clutch safety switch is on the ground side. You said it had voltage drop, not sure what you saw exactly. Did you tie pins 37 and 16 for the 12v in start? You mentioned trying to jump it with a jumper pack, was that a standard jump to the battery or? I'd see if you can jump the starter solenoid wire to see if it'll start up!
I'll check the wiring back again to see what exactly I did. When I tried to turn the car on, I had the charged to battery to operating volts, and then tried again with the jump pack still connected to the battery. I'll try both methods and verify when I get the chance to tonight.
So what did you do with PATS? You havr to run a cluster from a 13-14, and program your keys. Unchecking PATS switch in the tune is not enough. PCM needs to have PATS delete done or it wont crank. One other option is to run the control pack strategy. Did you scan for codes?
Sorry for the delayed response, I was traveling last week for work and just got back tonight. I did tie Pin 37 to Pin 16, and I used one of those push connectors that ties two wires together. Should I redo that? I now have some solder connecters and better splice connectors. Also I sent the PCM to PBH to get PATS deleted prior to starting the wiring. When I loaded the start-up tune in I didn't get any codes, or anything that was suspicious. I can try it again, and post what I see.
Had the chance to check for any CEL codes, and got the P1602 code. I looked it up and read that it can be caused by an open or short/bad electrical connection. Should I start by going through the CAN wires to make sure that they are properly connected? It may be a PITA but I'm more than willing to redo all of the connections once again
