Detailing Questions-Answered

Discussion in 'Keeping it Clean' started by DKS, Aug 11, 2010.

  1. DKS

    DKS Wax on, Wax off.

    I get a lot of PMs asking me detailing question. So, I'm going to try to put most of the answers on this one thread so it's an easy reference for everyone to view. Basically, it will save me some typing, lol

    I don't mind the PM's but if we keep it on this thread then everyone can view it and I don't have to answer the same questions over and over again. So, if you have a question and it's not covered already on this thread post it and I'll answer it as fast as I can.

    If I don't know the answer, I'll find out and make sure my info is correct before posting it.

    Polishing, Waxing, and Sealing

    Let's start with some terminology. Now, there isn't a specific guide to car care terminology. Some companies use different names for products, but these terms are defined as how the general car care specialist uses them.

    Polish- Something that has a various amount of an abrasive substance in it that will smooth away scratches and swirling. A true Polish does not contain anything that will protect the paint. It is just used to get rid of surface problems by "sanding" if you will, the clear coat and making it smooth again. There are many different "cuts" of polish. A finishing polish has very little cut while a "rubbing" compound had a lot of "cut".

    Sealant- Sealants are synthetic products that protect the paint. They do not contain any waxes. They do usually contain gloss enhancers. Sealants protect longer than waxes, but you usually do not get the depth and gloss that you do from a wax. If you choose to only do one or the other you should use a sealant instead of a wax for the following reasons
    #1 You can layer sealants more easily with less ill effects
    #2 Sealants last longer than waxes
    #3 Sealants protect better than waxes
    #4 Sealants are usually easier to apply and remove than waxes.

    If you use a sealant and a wax you want to put the wax on last. Some people are under the impression that a sealant should be put on over the wax to "seal" the wax on the car. This is not true. The sealant needs to bond to the paint and cannot do that if the wax is put on first.

    I generally use a sealant most of the time and only wax before a big car show to make it really look nice and deep.

    Wax- Usually a paste or liquid that contains Carnuba wax. Most waxes that are "synthetic" are just sealants. Meguiar's Tech Wax 2.0 is a classic example of this. They call it wax because the general public is more familiar with the term "wax" and are more likely to buy it. (this info actually came from a Meguiar's employee, it's not just my opinion)

    Waxes can build up, there is such a thing as "too much wax" Depending on the brand and application there is no way I can give you a number as to how many coats are too many, it varies a lot.

    The car needs to be stripped of all wax at least 1-2 times a year. This should be done using a Citrus based cleaner specifically designed for this purpose. You can get such products online from any car car specialist stores.

    Next you want to Clay bar the car. This removed surface deposits and makes the paint smooth. It does not get rid of scratches or water spots, etc. It's pretty cut and dry how to use it, just follow the directions. It's quick and easy and makes a difference especially if you park your car outside. After you clay bar you need to re-wash the car to get all the crap off of it.

    Once the car is stripped of all wax and Clay Bared you can polish it to get out any imperfections.

    If the finish is bad you want to use an aggressive polish and an aggressive pad.

    Pad selection is just as important as polish selection. You can take a light polish and use it on an aggressive pad and get more "cut" and the inverse is also true.

    When you are polishing you will want to press the pad to the paint. You want the pad to be crushed against the surface but not so hard that the buffer bogs down. I mark my backing plate so I can see how fast the buffer is spinning. If it starts to slow down, I let up on the pressure a little.

    In order to polish a car you need heat and friction. You can not get that from a POS buffer you get a Wal-mart. You need a real buffer!!! The Porter Cable 7424 is the best bang for the buck, IMO

    If you are using an aggressive polish or "compound" (I use Meguiar's M105) you want to use either a Cyan or Yellow pad (all my color references are for Lake country pads since they are the industry standard)

    The Cyan is a Hydrotech pad with will hold more of the polish at the surface and lets you be able to use less polish since it doesn't soak in the foam. That's why I use the Hydrotech pads, but the Yellow regular pad and the Cyan Hydrotech pad has about the same level of cut.

    If you use an aggressive polish you will then need to follow up with a finishing polish to make the finish smooth and mirror like.

    I use Meguiar's M205 and a Tangerine Hydrotech pad for this. If you don't want to use a Hydrotech pad then you can use an orange pad instead for the same effect.

    In my opinion the Hydrotech pads are the best value and the only way to fly.

    Now if you only have minor swirling you can just start with a finishing polish like the M205 and skip the aggressive polish.

    Since I'm very careful with my paint and do proper washing and no driving in the rain, etc. I never have to use anything other than the M205 on my car.

    Now, to confuse things even more. . . If you have moderate swirling you can use Meguiar's Swirl remover with a Tangerine or Orange pad or even Meguiar's Ultimate Compound with a Tangerine or Orange pad. Either of these will get out any minor to medium swirls or scratching and are way way way less harmful to your clear coat than the M105. If you don't want to use the Meguiar's products, there are several other swirl removers out there. A swirl remover is usually a medium grade polish that will cut more than a finishing polish therefore getting the job done quicker, but isn't so aggressive that it has to be followed up by a finishing polish.

    M105 is like liquid sandpaper and should only be used if necessary and the paint has a lot of problems. If you use it too much it will eat through your clear coat and that ain't good, lol

    I usually turn my buffer on 5 for my polishing. I work in 2 foot square areas at a time. I use a MF to remove the polish after it's broken down. Polish wipes off very easily once it's broken down.

    Make sure to keep you pads clean and dirt free or you will scratch the hell out of your car. I use snappy pad cleaner. It's just a pack you put in a couple gallons of water and soak the pads in. Throw them in as soon as you are done and let them be soaking. Then massage the polish out of them and sit them up to dry. Place them against something so they sit at an angle and the polishing surface is facing down so dust and dirt doesn't collect on them as they are drying.

    I usually use 2 pads for each grade of polish. So, depending on the car I'll either use 2 or 4 pads depending if I use just a finishing polish or if I have to use a more aggressive polish first.

    Once the car is polished you can apply sealant. I use either a blue fine finishing pad, a black finishing pad, or a crimson Hydrotech pad. Any will work fine. You will only need one pad for this. Tape off all the rubber, etc. and go over the car one panel at a time with the buffer on about a speed of 3. Wipe the sealant off after it dries with a microfiber. When applying the sealant you are not putting any extra pressure on the car.

    Most sealants need time to cure. You need to check the specific product for cure times. I usually wait 24 hours between coats and only do 2 coats max.

    Waxes vary a lot and I can't cover all the bases since they are all different from one to the next. Basically, with a wax you apply it last and do it by hand, usually. Some say circular overlapping, some say straight lines, etc. Just follow the directions for the product you are using.

    Keep the microfibers you use to remove wax, sealants, and polishes separate and only use them for these tasks to prevent getting them dirty and scratching your paint. Basically, don't use a MF you clean you wheels with to remove polish from you freshly polished paint.

    OK, that's all I can think of. You can see a lot of videos of people using buffers on youtube if you don't know how long you should work a specific area. But you basically want to work an area long enough to fix the problems and no longer.

    You do want to work in a cross hatch pattern. Go from left to right then right to left as you move down or up in an overlapping patter. Once you have reached the end of your "box" then you go back over the same area in an Up to Down and Down to up motion. This will make for a more even result.

    Washing Tips

    Here's a few things to consider when washing your car. Especially if you have a black car that shows micro scratches and swirls easily

    Most of the damage to you paint is done by improper washing. If you are rubbing a gritty, dirty sponge all over your car when you wash it you are doing more damage than good.

    Now, I only use Sheep Skin Wash Mitts. They are great at protecting your paint by having enough nap to hold in dirt and debris.

    Start with a good car wash. I use Chemical Guys Maxi Suds II because it's very slick and very sudsy and smells great. It doesn't strip wax or sealant and that is super important. The slickness is also important since that helps to lubricate the surface and prevents scratching the paint. The Meguiar's Deep Crystal wash is good also, but doesn't suds up nearly as well.

    If you have access to a pressure washer, use it to first spray the car with soap then rinse with high pressure to get as much of the dirt and grit off as possible before touching the car. (this is very very helpful to keep from scratching the paint from a dirty wash media) They key is to soap the car up to lubricate it before you increase the pressure to prevent scratching. The pressure washer will get a lot of the dirt off so you're not dragging it all over your car when you start using the wash mitt.

    You need a Bucket (or 2) with grit guards in them. The grit guard sits in the bottom of the bucket and traps grit and dirt so it doesn't get back on the car and do damage. You can use a rinse bucket first then the soap bucket to make double sure to get all of the grit out of the mitt. If you car is "dirty" you are going to want to use the 2 bucket method and the grit guard. My car rarely get's what you would call "dirty" I'm usually just get some minor dust off of it and I'm fine just using 1 bucket since I use a grit guard.

    Grit Guards make all the difference in the world for not scratching and swirling your paint when you wash your car!!!!

    Agitate the sponge against the grit guard to work the grit out each time you put put it in the bucket to get more soap.

    Wash the car in straight lines, not circles to prevent swirl marks.

    Rinse the car then dry using one of these methods. . .

    You can either use the sheeting method to pre-dry the car. To use the sheeting method you use a hose with no sprayer on the end so it's free flowing. Start at the top of the car and fill the top with water so it's running off the sides. Bring the hose down to the edge of the top and move it back and forth to "catch" the water and slowly work it down to the bottom of the car. If you do it correctly it will sheet the water off the car and be almost dry with just a few spots left.

    At this point you can just use a Microfiber drying towel to blot (not rub) the little water that is left.

    OR, my preferred method is using a leaf blower to just dry the car off which will also get water out of the nooks and crannies that the other method will miss. I do this because in shows I can't have water spots inside my gas cap, trunk, etc. Plus, the less you touch a car's paint the less chance you have of scratching or streaking it.

    I try to never touch my paint if I can help it. If I have just dust on my car I would rather pressure wash it and leaf blow it than to try to use a microfiber and quick detailer, which will scratch the hell out of a car. You notice it on a black but maybe not on another color.

    When you have a car with a mirror shine like mine you can really see when you screw up with using car dusters, microfibers and quick detailer, etc. However I have found that using the Ultimate Quick Wax as a quick detailer works the best of anything I've seen for dusting the car off if you don't have time to wash it. It is very slick and with very minimal pressure can be used a few times in this manner without much visible damage as long as you keep light pressure and the car is not covered in dirt when you do it. This is for light dust removal only, not washing your car when it has road grime all over it and expecting it not to scratch it up.

    Never ever just spray a car off and then dry it with a towel. If it's just sprayed off, even with a pressure washer there is still dirt and dust on it and the towel will rub it around and scratch the heck out of it no matter how careful you are. If you just spray the car off you better use a leaf blower to dry it or you will scratch the paint.

    I don't believe in "spraying a car off" without using something to agitate the dirt, it doesn't fully clean the car and just sets you up for problems when you go to dry it. IMHO it's a waste of time.

    Once you get a good wax job the last thing you want to do if screw it up the first time you wash the car. . .
    Last edited by a moderator: May 12, 2011
  2. NastyStang113

    NastyStang113 Made in U.S.A.

    Detailing Write-Up


    Washing your car is a step that is often overlooked and it’s one of the most important steps to take care of your vehicle. A lot of people wash their vehicle every week and think they are taking care of it but more often than not they are actually hurting their finish by washing improperly so it’s important to know the correct steps when washing your vehicle.

    First things first … Always use a car wash, do not use any other type of soap. I see a lot of people using Dawn and they think they are doing good. Do not use anything but a car soap. Dawn will strip wax and oils from the finish. A few good soaps includes DP’s Xtreme Foam Formula Auto Shampoo which is meant for a foam gun but works well without it as well, other great soaps are Meguiar’s Gold Class, Meguiar’s Super Soap, Poorboy’s Super Slick & Suds, etc. Car washing should always be done at dusk or in low sun light settings. The paint should also always be cool. Both of these will prevent water etching and water spots. Next, always use a quality mitt. Do not use micro fiber mitts as they do not have enough “knap” and will trap dirt and it cause micro marring to your paint’s finish. My personal recommendation is the SM Arnold Lambs Wool mitt, it’s one of the best mitts out there.

    A correct wash includes using the “two bucket method”. All this means is that you’ll use two buckets, one contains your soap and water and the other is plain water as a rinse bucket for your mitt. It’s also highly recommended to buy “Grit Guards” which sit at the bottom of the buckets to trap all of the dirt at the bottom of the bucket, instead of floating around to get into your mitt. Now dilution is very important when using soap. More is definitely not better in this sense. More soap than needed will strip your wax off of your finish. Most soaps will be able to use the 1 oz per 1 gallon of water rule. A foam gun is a great tool to use as well. I wouldn’t go without mine. I still use the two bucket wash method with the foam gun though so don’t think you can skip out there.

    Now onto the washing process. There are two different ways that I believe are correct. If you are someone who believes in using a wheel cleaner than you’ll want to wash the wheels first. If you do get some cleaner on your paint, you can simply wash it off. If you do this, you will want to have a dedicated bucket for your wheels, tires, fenders, exhaust tips, etc. However, I do the wheels and tires after my washing my paint. I don’t use any cleaners though. I only use soap and water for my wheels. It’s the safest way to clean wheels and if you are cleaning your vehicle often as you should you’ll be fine. Once you’ve decided what you’re going to do there than you’re onto the next step.

    Now it’s time to wash the paint. Rinse the vehicle thoroughly with a lot of water, more is better here. Hopefully you already have both your buckets ready (and your foam gun, if you’re going to use one). Now the best way to wash is always from the top to the bottom. Wash in sections, rinse and keep water on the paint the whole time you’re washing this will help prevent water spots. The two bucket method is used as follows. Dip the mitt into the soap bucket, wash your section, put the mitt into the rinse bucket, rinse the paint, and than wash the mitt out in the bucket, running the mitt against the grit guard and than back into the soap bucket. As far as bugs go on your vehicle, including glass and/or paint. I usually just use a yellow Honeycomb bug sponge that has been soaking in soap and water. There are a lot of products out on the market to remove bugs but I find that they will remove wax as well as the bugs. So, with that said I like to keep it simple and use soap and water. Keep repeating this process until you have finished the whole vehicle.

    Once you have finished washing the paint, your wheels, tires, exhaust tips, etc it’s time to dry. Take the nozzle off of your hose and run the water on your vehicle from the top to the bottom. This is called the sheeting method and this will remove a lot of water. Drying is a key step in keeping your paint’s finish swirl free. I use a backpack leaf blower to get the majority of the water off. Once, I’ve removed nearly all of it, I’ll go back with a drying micro fiber like Meguiar’s Water Magnet or Pak Shaks Waffle Weave towel, etc. Water Blade types of tools are very sketchy, they have been known to induce straight line scratches. If you don’t have access to a leaf blower, than my recommendation is to use a couple of drying micro fibers. Go over the vehicle once with one, ringing it out when needed, and than follow up with one or two more to completely dry the vehicle to get a streak free shine.
  3. NastyStang113

    NastyStang113 Made in U.S.A.

    Clay Bars:

    Using a clay bar should be the first step to a full detail after washing your car. A clay bar is used to remove containments that have bonded to your paints surface which include tree sap, bird droppings, railroad and fallout dust, etc. Using a clay bar is very easy. Once the vehicle is washed you’ll want to use a Quick Detail spray to lubricate the surface and than take the clay bar and knead it. Now you can go onto ‘rubbing’ the paint with the clay bar. I like to use back and forth motions. Make sure you keep kneading the clay bar because containments will be picked up and you want to reduce the chance of micro marring and scratches. I’d recommend not going in circles. Once you have done a section you’ll want to remove the lubricant with a clean micro fiber. Make sure you keep kneading the clay bar because containments will be picked up and you want to reduce the chance of micro marring and scratches. Continue this process until the whole vehicle is done. Another good tip is to start at the top and work your way down to the dirtier surfaces. I prefer Poorboy’s World and Meguiars clay bar with Meguiars #34 “Final Inspection” as a lubricant.


    Polishing is the process of removing scratches, micro marring, and swirls. I recommend using a dual action polisher like the Meguiars G100, G110, or Flex. These machines are more than sufficient and are much safer than using a rotary especially for a beginner. A rotary should not be used unless you have experience. I always recommend if you want to try it out that you buy a body panel from a junk yard to practice on before you think about doing your own vehicle.

    Polishing will be done from the most aggressive polish to the least aggressive polish. Polishing will remove a minuscule amount of clear coat to remove the imperfections. The amount is so small that a micrometer would need to be used to see the difference. Now polishing is going to be different with a lot of products on the market, some polishes will need to be broken down a lot and some won’t. I recommend doing a 2’x2’ section at a time and than removing the excess with a clean micro fiber. Start with the most aggressive polish that is required, polish the entire vehicle in sections, and remove the excess. Now move onto the next polish, if required, and repeat the process. There are tons of great products out on the market so just try things out and find what suits your needs. Merzena, Meguiars, Poorboy’s, etc all make amazing polishes.


    A glaze is applied after polishing and before a sealant and/or wax. The glaze adds oils and enhances the finishes clarity, depth, and shine. Glazes are optional though. I prefer to use glazes but your mileage may very. A glaze will be applied on a low speed setting on a DA (Dual Action Polisher) until the product breaks down. Remove the excess with a clean micro fiber towel.


    A sealant is applied after polishing and/or a glaze. A sealant simply seals the surface. A sealant can be used in conjunction or as a replacement for a synthetic or carnuba wax. Sealants typically last from 4-8 months depending on the vehicle’s environment and product used. A sealant is applied by hand or with a DA (Dual Action Polisher) on a low speed setting. Break down the product and remove the excess with a clean micro fiber towel. A general rule with sealants is that they need to sit on the surface a little bit longer before removing. I usually do the whole vehicle before removing any excess depending on product, conditions, and the vehicle’s size, etc.


    There are two different waxes, carnuba and synthetic. Carnuba is typically less durable but provides a better shine and clarity. Synthetic waxes typically last longer but generally do not look as good. Some synthetic waxes can also produce an effect on certain colors that resembles the look of saran wrap. Both waxes have their place and are a good choice depending on your vehicle’s environment, etc. Both are applied the same way though. Waxes can be applied by hand or by using a DA (Dual Action Polisher) on a low speed setting. Break down the product and remove the excess with a clean micro fiber towel. There are a lot of products out on the market and they all behave differently. Some waxes need to adhere to the surface before they can be removed and some can be removed quickly. I’d recommend you trying different methods and finding out what works for you. A good rule of thumb is that you’ll want to wait 12 hours before applying a wax over a sealant or a second coat of wax.
    ixtlan likes this.
  4. stkjock

    stkjock ---- Madmin ---- Staff Member Administrator Super Moderator S197 Team Member

    took some posts out to clean up the topic for a sticky, please feel free to post questions or comments
    DKS likes this.
  5. DKS

    DKS Wax on, Wax off.

    Ok, here's a copy of a post I made about wax and sealant durability. . .

    This is an article I copied and pasted, it's not written by me. But, I thought it was interesting and you guys might like to read it. The BlackFire Wet Diamond, which is my sealant of choice rates at the top, so if any of you took my advice on that stuff. . . you're welcome, lol


    "Wax durability varies by manufacturer and what is used in their makeup. I have seen waxes last 2 weeks and some last as much as 6 months. Carnauba waxes will typically last 3-5 weeks at most, while sealants will offer better protection for about 4+ months. No wax will last a year no matter what hype you have been told, so its best to reapply before you think the wax is completely gone!
    Carnaubas will usually look deeper and wetter, but at a cost! Their durability lacks where the appearance makes up for it! Sealants are the opposite in which the durability is superior, yet the look is often more reflective.
    Some of the waxes I have personally used and durability I have seen:
    Blackfire wet diamond – 4-6 months (my personal favorite for ease of use on and off, plus the slickness and wetness as a result of use)
    Meguiars 21 – 3-4 months (sealant wax from well-known company)
    Pinnacle Souveran – 2-3 weeks (best for looks and regarded as a beauty wax)
    Poorboys EX – 2-3 months (nice slickness and durability, more reflective looking rather than wet looking)
    Reapplication of wax protection will depend on a few factors: How long since the previous application, what kind of conditions the car was driven in, how the car is washed, etc. If you can feel the car and it isn’t slick, its time to re-wax. If you can wash the car and dirt is not coming off with ease, it may be time to re-wax. If while washing the car, the water isn’t beading up like it did the first few washes after the first application, it may be time for a new application. You never want to let the wax completely disappear and degrade leaving your car with zero protection. At the very least, wax once every 4-6 months for constant protection, even if you feel the car doesn’t need wax, it more than likely could use it after 4 months!
    One more thing to consider is the use of a pre-wax cleaner! This will allow a stronger bond between the paint and the wax, which in turn will give you better protection and durability! You don’t want to just layer wax on top of old wax. For best results, using a product like Chemical Guys Ez Creme Glaze or P21s Paintwork Cleanser will clean the paint and prep it for the up and coming wax application. The light cleaners in the EZ Creme will help strip off any old oils / waxes from the paint.
    What I like to do is to do a Chemical Guys Wash and Gloss traditional wash. By using a higher soap to water dilution ratio, this shampoo will break down anything on the paint. Following the wash, I will use an IPA (Isopropyl Alcohol) wipedown all over the paint as the alcohol will further break down anything the CGWG didnt remove! One little test I will do is try to fling a towel across the hood of the car and if it slides across, there is still something on the paint! If the towel just sticks, then it’s bare and ready to be waxed! This is the point where I will either use CGEZC or just go straight to the wax application!" -From
  6. DKS

    DKS Wax on, Wax off.

    I've had a couple of people ask about making Silver and White cars really stand out and shine. Well, first of all all the paint needs to be in excellent condition to start with, just like with any color. You need to clay bar, then polish out all of the microscratching and swirling. (that you may not even realize you have)

    With a black car you see the microscratching easily and know when it's there even if you're not looking for it. So, it's easy to know the condition of the finish of a black car.

    Lighter colored cars are more difficult to see the imperfections. So, what happens is people with lighter colored cars have a tendency to let the finish go and just put on sealants and waxes.

    Without getting the microscratching and swirling out first you won't be able to get that dramatic finish you want.

    But, once you get the base smooth and right and a good sealant on it, you can put on one of these to make it look really amazing. . .

    or this

    If you don't want to spend that much, two cheaper choices that will really make a big difference are Natty's Blue or BlackFire Midnight Sun.
  7. GrnBullitt08

    GrnBullitt08 Dale Jr

    Nice write up. Alot of good info in there.
  8. mpf

    mpf forum member

    Good advice, thanks.
    Anyone ever use "rejex" ? It's what's on my car, slicker than snot.
    2 coats on the ZX lasted all thru chicagloand winter, and the car is black.
    Supposedly, Porsche owners use this stuff religiously.
    I emailed them asking for what brand of 'quick wax' would be compatible (touch-up usage), but got no response, so they have poor cust. service.
  9. DKS

    DKS Wax on, Wax off.

    I've been PMing back and forth with a guy about Glazes for a couple of days now. Thought I should cover it. I personally don't use a glaze on my car. I find I can get my car looking the way I want it without it. Most detailers deem it an unnesessary step, as well. Here's something that pretty much sums it up well from

    "If you’re in search of paint perfection, don’t forget the glaze. Car glazes are usually regarded as optional unless you’re a collector of exotic or vintage cars, but they are well worth the time if you’re a die-hard enthusiast.

    A glaze is a shine-enhancing product that goes on after polishing but before the wax or sealant. It is made with oils and wetting agents that amplify your paint’s shine and improve the clarity. Glazes are usually used by auto manufacturers and paint and body shops to prefect freshly painted surfaces before the vehicle is handed over to the consumer. Glazes generally do not have protective qualities, but they may have fillers that hide any slight imperfections in the paint. A glaze is often used by a body shop after compounding to restore the shine and eliminate haze.

    A glaze is not a polish or wax. It is strictly a shine-enhancing agent that will produce a dramatic wet look on your paint. On the concours series, a glaze is essential to achieve a winning deep gloss. Most glazes have no protective qualities so always follow with a wax or sealant."

    The thing with a glaze is that it fades. So, if you put on a glaze it fills in your problems, but then they come right back out when it wears off.

    I chose to remove the problems completely by polishing the car and then using good sealants and/or wax am able to achieve the same effect.
  10. DKS

    DKS Wax on, Wax off.


    The Rejex is very similar to the Blackfire Wet Diamond sealant that I use all the time. Menzerna Power Lock is also very similar. All three are great sealants and leave a super slick finish on the car.
  11. ixtlan

    ixtlan Senior Member

    Damn good info!!!
  12. mpf

    mpf forum member

    blackfire searching reveals guys love this stuff. Expensive, though. Rejex is $20, both are acrylic polymers. BF has a QD spray, so when my rejex is gone, will try it.

    DKS: where do you buy it? Also, could not resist posting this foto, it's just for you, ha!
    ( not my car )
  13. Zacharyx

    Zacharyx forum member

    love bugs??
  14. DKS

    DKS Wax on, Wax off.

    88 is where I get my wet diamond. Pretty sure they carry the full line.
    A can of Plexus would do wonders on those bugs, lol

  15. DKS

    DKS Wax on, Wax off.

    It usually takes me about 6 hours if I'm using a finishing polish to go over the entire car with a tangerine pad if I have some swirling. If you're not getting them out you may want to consider. . .

    Pressure- Are you applying enough pressure?

    Time- Are you spending enough time in each place?

    Speed- Make sure you are going over the area slowly so the heat can build a little as you go. Move in slow steady lines as you make your cross hatch pattern. If you move rapidly from side to side the friction and heat are not being created enough in each area. Keep it slow and steady to ensure you are getting enough heat an friction to be effective.

    In your case you will, as you stated, probably need to go with at least a more aggressive pad and perhaps even a more aggressive polish to get the job done.

    Yep, it's not a problem to do touch up polishing if you need to. I would recommend probably using something like Swirl X or some other swirl remover for that since it will be less abrasive.

    Just make sure to re-seal or wax the area since the polishing will remove any protection in that area

    Microfibers should always be washed prior to using them. Make sure to wash them with something that has no scents or fabric softeners in it. I use either Tide Free or All Free detergent. If the detergent has fabric softeners in it it can cause a residue that will streak the paint.

    And if you choose to dry them in the dryer make sure to use the lowest heat and also no dryer sheets. I dry mine now, but I used to only air dry them. I find that a very low heat in the dryer fluffs them up and they seem to work better.
    Last edited by a moderator: Nov 17, 2010
  16. ayabrego

    ayabrego Sprayed yaaa

    What is the whole process for a full detail including everything as in clay bar wax sealent polishing?
  17. DKS

    DKS Wax on, Wax off.

    Well, first you usually strip the car using a strong citrus based cleaner. I think Nasty uses dish soap, which is cheaper but still effective. I use chemical guys citrus wash.

    Than clay bar the car. Then wash again and dry.
    Depending on the condition of the paint you can polish it using an aggressive polish or compound then a finishing polish. Or if the paint isn't bad go straight to a finishing polish. Then either seal or wax. Or you can seal then after the sealant cures you can also wax it on top of the sealant. In a nutshell.

    Of course you'll also be doing the interior and tires and wheels during this as well.
  18. DaGonz

    DaGonz S197 fire/rescue

    When I wash my vehicles.. I use the two bucket method and follow the natural airflow of the vehicle. I rinse the car down and then spay a car wash soap/water solution on the panels prior to using the washmitts.

    I also move my washmitts in a straight line motion.... if there should be any grit left on the finish, a straight line scratch is easier to correct or hide than a circular one.
  19. DKS

    DKS Wax on, Wax off.

    Yeah, that's all covered in the first two posts. But I guess some things can stand to be repeated. You don't use grit guards?
  20. DaGonz

    DaGonz S197 fire/rescue

    I do use them... but there is alway the possiblity of picking something up off of the finish that can cause marring and scratches.
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