Disappointed with Autometer Cobalt Wideband

Wintermist

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Heh if I tap the gas mine will shoot to 18+ (Peg the gauge) then down to 12, almost seems too sensitive got an innovate too.
 

Vapour Trails

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Why buy that when u can buy this?

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/INN-3795/

I have the same setup in my car and compared it to a AFM-1000 and it was within .01-.02 accurate.

Same price, but thousand time better setup. Have a look at the wideband shootout in the previous post.

-Matt

And it's cheaper than the one I bought?

I'm going to be sick! Fuck you autometer.
 

MexGT

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Why buy that when u can buy this?

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/INN-3795/

I have the same setup in my car and compared it to a AFM-1000 and it was within .01-.02 accurate.

Same price, but thousand time better setup. Have a look at the wideband shootout in the previous post.

-Matt

Thanks Matt, I did look at it, but since it was model XD-16, I thought there was some major difference with this 229 wideband for the extra $100.
 

ZeroSVT

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I wonder about mine too, but I have a innovate lc-1 but my gauge bounces all over the place.

Your sensor resolution is set to too low of a setting you, which makes it very sparatic.

This can be changed using the Innovate software

-Matt
 

ZeroSVT

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Thanks Matt, I did look at it, but since it was model XD-16, I thought there was some major difference with this 229 wideband for the extra $100.

The XD-16 Kit has a digital gauge, with a sweep, where as the DB kit only has a analog gauge with just a digital readout.

The LC-1 Included with both kits are the same, its just a difference in the gauges.

-Matt
 

scramblr

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I started playing with the gauge again today. The dsp setting for the Bar Graph Display allows you to set a HI (Lean) and LO (Rich) setting for the display. This way the bar graph lights up when that setting is exceeded. Mine goes as low as 10.0 and as high as 20.0.

My AFR should be around 11.8 so I set the LO (Rich) to 11.0 and would like to set the HI (Lean) to 11.9, however, the HI setting only goes to 15.0. I don't get it.

Also went WOT in 4th today and it pegged at 10.1. Could it be a faulty sensor?
 

Vapour Trails

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I started playing with the gauge again today. The dsp setting for the Bar Graph Display allows you to set a HI (Lean) and LO (Rich) setting for the display. This way the bar graph lights up when that setting is exceeded. Mine goes as low as 10.0 and as high as 20.0.

My AFR should be around 11.8 so I set the LO (Rich) to 11.0 and would like to set the HI (Lean) to 11.9, however, the HI setting only goes to 15.0. I don't get it.

Also went WOT in 4th today and it pegged at 10.1. Could it be a faulty sensor?

I was playing with the same function yesterday. I'm not sure that it will make any difference, I don't believe it acts as a recalibration for the range you are interested in, but I was hoping.

My experience is the same as yours, WOT = 10.0. It could be the sensor, but in my case it has only been installed for one month and has barely 1000 miles on it. Not much use if it is already fouled.
 
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ZeroSVT

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I started playing with the gauge again today. The dsp setting for the Bar Graph Display allows you to set a HI (Lean) and LO (Rich) setting for the display. This way the bar graph lights up when that setting is exceeded. Mine goes as low as 10.0 and as high as 20.0.

My AFR should be around 11.8 so I set the LO (Rich) to 11.0 and would like to set the HI (Lean) to 11.9, however, the HI setting only goes to 15.0. I don't get it.

Also went WOT in 4th today and it pegged at 10.1. Could it be a faulty sensor?

Mine did the same thing when the sensor went bad, it started showing rich erratically.

The best thing to do is a free air calibration on the sensor, and force it to re-learn the heater timing. Make the LC-1/LM-1 treat it as a new sensor in other words.

If the sensor is determined bad, the purchase a new one from autozone, they come with a 1 year warranty, so if the sensor does go bad in that 1 year then they will replace it for no charge ^_^

The settings for the delay time is located in the LM-Programer software. Just be sure that your hardware has the latest firmware on it. When i get back home ill take a screen shot of the settings box.

-Matt
 

MexGT

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Also, can I datalog the AFR with the X3 using that wideband from Innovate you recommend Matt ? Or which one should I use
 

scramblr

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Mine did the same thing when the sensor went bad, it started showing rich erratically.

The best thing to do is a free air calibration on the sensor, and force it to re-learn the heater timing. Make the LC-1/LM-1 treat it as a new sensor in other words.

If the sensor is determined bad, the purchase a new one from autozone, they come with a 1 year warranty, so if the sensor does go bad in that 1 year then they will replace it for no charge ^_^

The settings for the delay time is located in the LM-Programer software. Just be sure that your hardware has the latest firmware on it. When i get back home ill take a screen shot of the settings box.

-Matt

Are you talking about the same gauge? Autometer Cobalt Digitial Wideband? I didn't think these could be calibrated.
 
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ZeroSVT

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I think he is confused and thinks you have the innovate.

Sorry, i was reading and replying on the iphone, i was referring to the innovate setup.

Before you make a buying decision based on that magazine article read this:

http://www.modularfords.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1225791&postcount=84

Excellent find.

When i recommend the innovate it is from real world experience i have had with them.

The dynoshop I use here uses a AFM1000 setup. I have compared at least 4 customer cars with the LC-1/LM-1 to the AFM and they were within +/- 0.2 as well as my personal setup was also within the same margin.

So my tests were not controlled like the article nor the last post. They are real world and i feel that i could depend on the Innovate gauges day to day for tuning.

However, with that being said, If i am approached to tune a high horsepower car were accuracy is critical then i will only do it with the AFM1000.

Most tuners, if not all will always leave a safety margin if tuning a car on a non OEM wideband.

-Matt
 

lito

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I own an AFM-1000, NGK AFX, Motec and Innovate LM-2.

The Motec unit came embedded in the dynapack control unit, I'm having troubles with the power supply in the controller so I had to quit using it.

I always used and currently use the AFX with the NTK sensor, switched the sensor frequently. Now that I have the AFM-1000 I'll use the AFX only while tuning on the road (I do tuning trips around the country about every three weeks)

Initially I bought the LM-2 with the dual sensor option, basically to tune critical high powered cars and measure both banks at once and also have a scanner for different brand of cars the LM-2 suppose to support. I have it for sale.

I made my own tests based on completely stock cars with all of them (except the AFM-1000 that I just got) and both Motec and AFX agreed on getting what the car was commanding all the time, innovate unit didn't, so I ditched it.

I also do not trust any wb that can't be free air calibrated (autometer, aem, dynojet doesn't free air calibrate, but I could be wrong) because I've tested with the Motec how BP affect its readings, so I do not care what customer's WB say.

I ended using an AFX thru an aeroforce gauge in my own car.
 

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