Had car on Dyno Monday. Finding my stock pump isn't able to keep up with my current setup. Was wonder what everyone is stepping up to. Looking for something to handle up to about 500 HP 2006 Mustang GT 4.6 super charged automatic trans
I have a walbro 400lph with sending unit from lmr, should be sufficient, i was pushing 450 wheel with it and relatively inexpensive, some go with gt500 dual pumps
That poor oem 5r55s automatic transmission won't handle 500rwhp. Whether you go with dual GT-500 pumps, or OEM pump + BAP, use 8 ga wire, directly from battery terminal to trunk. I used 8 ga wire + stock pump, and reduced the FPDC by 10%. ( now down to 80%, with 390 rwhp on my 2010 GT auto + small roush M90 blower + LT's, FRPP twin 62mm TB..and 94 tune.
Yep, The tranny life is limited. I am on my third. Was running just under 500 rwhp but now at about 460.
I went with the GT500 setup on mine as well. Relatively painless and very easy for my tuner to dial in. I ended up with 643 at the wheels on 93 octane. We hit 699 once on a glory run with race gas, was shooting for 700.
@JeremyH is the guy. He can supply you with the wiring and pump(s). He's done a great job with my issues. Your tuner may have a preference of single/dual pump setup. My tuner in Texas wanted me to install a return system on my car. I considered that a waste of time.
The dual GT-500 pumps is painless. And IF that wasn't big enough, a dual BAP can be added to the dual GT-500 pumps. But dual GT-500 pumps + a dual BAP will suck 40 amps out of the battery. A bare min of 8 ga wire required from battery terminals to trunk.
Most cost effective solution...rebuild your own pump; add a walbro. Cost ~$100. As others have said you'll want to upgrade the power cable to the FPDM (8 gauge or larger - see attachment). Do it yourself Fuel Pump Upgrade: FPDM Fuel System Wire upgrade attached.
VMP and other's also make a BAP. It's just an Un regulated DC input to a constant, regulated 17.00 vdc output device. It's a DC to DC converter. You already have 14.75 vdc at the battery terminals..at idle. The BAP just brings it up some more, to 17 vdc....right in the trunk.
When you add the BAP or similar device, not only run a heavier gauge wire to the trunk. But also cut and splice it into the existing wire as close as possible at the fuel pump driver module. It is a white 18 gauge wire, IIRC. You want that wire as short as possible if you are going to push extra current through it.
