Hot Rear Brakes

[LarryJM]

This seems to be what was causing hot rear brakes on my knew Big Brake brake install. This is on the inside against the piston where it's hard to see installed. The cross hatch is still visible and the brake pad still has it's original surface. COMMENTS as to why. The rotor does look a little overheated. This is with 500 local miles of use over one month. Notice this race only rotor is already starting to rust after just 2 washes.

 

[JJ427R]

Contact Dave Zeckhausen at Zeckhausen Racing. He's the US StopTech distributor, Great guy and knows his shit about brakes, give him a shout he'll answer any questions you have. Leave a voicemail if you call and he'll get back to you.
https://www.zeckhausen.com/

I have problems overheating my rear brakes when I run on track during HPDE days, even if I turn off traction control and advance trac. I've melted the piston seals twice and replaced the calipers twice (reminds me I have a set to rebuild). I need to upgrade to a larger rotor on the rear to dissipate the heat more. I also need ducting up front. I warped a front rotor and cracked a rear at Road America last July.

 

[LarryJM]

I will do that. This is a new install with 500 break in miles. My bad is I used the race only rotor with no rust protection. So I was going to replace this new rotor anyway. Rockauto has Raybestos race rotors for $15 each and street rotors for $35. The only difference is the Zinc Coat. I am trying to figure out if this is an incorrect install vis bad caliper which the installer wants me to believe. I reused the old calipers. This time I purchased Power Stop Calipers on Amazon with no core charge. Right now I want the cores. I was able to drive it this morning with no brakes for 1 mile and all four sides were cold. So the brake drag has been fixed.

 

[LarryJM]

New Zinc Plated Raybestos street rotor and Power Stop Calipers and new Raybestos pads one day old.

 

[dark steed]

That pad worn on one edge and the small heat mark would seem to indicate that either the pad (maybe possible) or the rotor (don’t see how that’s possible) was not seated squarely or a defective caliper.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[LarryJM]

That pad worn on one edge and the small heat mark would seem to indicate that either the pad (maybe possible) or the rotor (don’t see how that’s possible) was not seated squarely or a defective caliper.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The worn spot is not a worn spot but rather never touched part of the pad as it came out of the box. It kind of has a sandpaper feel. It NEVER touched the rotor which still has it's crosshatching. The pads were wearing in at an angle.

 

[dark steed]

Are you sure about that? That shiny area with less crosshatch is about the same width as the worn portion of the pad. That makes me believe the pad was in crooked and was only contacting partially. Otherwise what was the pad contacting and how did it get worn down on the corner? It had to be touching something. I’d like to see what the other rotor looks like as well


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[LarryJM]

Another picture. Both are unworn areas on both rotor and pad.

 

[LarryJM]

The other side is not as bad.

 

[LarryJM]

So bad caliper or bad pad or bad install???

 

[dark steed]

My point exactly, the inside area is worn more on the hot, angled one. The other one has a wider wear area, consistent with the wear marks on the pad (which hasn’t full bedded yet)

The reason the first one was so hot is because that pad was making contact constantly with the rotor. It appears to have been put in crooked.

Bad install in my opinion

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[dark steed]

Bad pad install unless there is something obviously out of square with the caliper


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[LarryJM]

My point exactly, the inside area is worn more on the hot, angled one. The other one has a wider wear area, consistent with the wear marks on the pad (which hasn’t full bedded yet)

The reason the first one was so hot is because that pad was making contact constantly with the rotor. It appears to have been put in crooked.

Bad install in my opinion

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

No way a bad caliper can do this? They said one side was stuck and the other side was very stiff. There was noting wrong with the old brakes and the reason I reused the old calipers. I still have the old Ford rear Rotors and Pads. They all look fine. Now I remember my fathers words. If it ain't broke, don't fix it.

 

[dark steed]

With that pad being worn on one corner, he didn’t put it in straight. The only way you can wear a pad on the corner like that is if it is NOT parallel to the rotor


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[LarryJM]

This is not big money here. Maybe an extra $250 for everything including labor and I was going to replace the rotors anyway and now I have new Power Stop Calipers. My issue is how can a guy who does this all the time screw this up??? Are these Calipers really bad or are they just covering their asses? I have thought the adapters might not have been tight.

 

[LarryJM]

Everything I read says Bad Calipers. They are 7 year old. Dust seal gets hard and lets in water and dust sticking the caliper.

 

[xeninworx]

We’re these bedded in properly?

 

[LarryJM]

We’re these bedded in properly?

About 70% was. There is really no way these can get out of line in the caliper. They are completely free flowing.

 

[xeninworx]

I would say the piston isn’t retracting all the way causing the corner of the pad to drag on the rotor or the retaining clip is too tight. The rear pistons on my wife’s Accord were starting to seize and the pads were wearing unevenly.

 

[LarryJM]

The lesson is, never reuse calipers older then 5 years. It's the same with tires. What seems to keep things going with calipers is the little rubber seals. I wrecked $30 worth of race rotors and $15 worth of pads and $100 worth of labor not following this rule.