How Much Does It Weigh?

DusterRT

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My educated guess -slash- repeating experiences from others as far as the trade-offs of a lightweight battery vs. OEM style is summed up here:

- Likely a shorter lifespan as it will be worked harder (lower capacity). I would be prepared to replace it every couple of years, but I've heard a number of people getting several years (4+) out of a light dry-cell battery.
- Less reserve capacity, so say your car's not starting or you're running accessories without the engine on, the charge will be depleted sooner. This could also make something that has a low current draw when the car is off more apparent. If it's parked for extended periods of time you may find you have a dead battery when you go try to wake it up. A non-issue if it's a DD, IMO. If any battery goes dead overnight you've got other problems to find.
- It may have issues even fully charged in extreme cold. Being in TX, that's not likely an issue for you.

I won't tell you whether or not it is going to work for you, but I would say that when I get around to it I will have no fears putting one in MY daily driver..
 

jroc07gt

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if you arent running a big sound system i dont see you have any problems with a light weight battery
 

US-1

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Flipped it? Sure it didn't say 3560 and when flipped it looked like 3240? :laughlots:

That's pretty damn impressive Matt.
 

ASRoff

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all that hard work to knock out weight paid off :D
Thats awesome!!! I need to go on a Diet. LOL


Hpoefully I can get some more weight out of the car as well as some weight out of the belly. Ha!!
 

SoundGuyDave

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Just adding to the tech:

2006 Mustang GT, manual

Steeda race cowl hood
Steeda competition fascia with billet duct inlets and no accy fogs
GT/CS rear fascia
stock brakes with Quantum ducts
BMR K-member brace
BMR swaybars, billet links in rear
Tokico dampers, BMR springs, MM C/C plates
ARH, offroad H, SLP stainless resonators, Flowmaster A/B
Canton Accusump, Pipeline oil filter blockoff, remote filter, Setrab oil cooler
BBR rear seat delete
Ultrashield race seats, Simpson 5-pt harnesses on both sides
Autopower 4-pt rollbar (race version with diagonal and harness tubes)
rear seatbelts deleted, kiddie seat anchors deleted
MM LCAs (rod), MM PHB (rod) BMR UCA (poly, adj.)
Spec 3+ clutch, AL flywheel, Spydershaft
removed axle damper weights, all brake shields
Canton aluminum PS and cooling burp tanks
Stef's air/oil separator
Steeda billet delete plates
C&L racer CAI
Moroso 1qt plastic vented overflow tank (coolant)
UPR polished stainless radiator shield and fuse box cover
Hood struts
Liquid Metal Static wheels (18x9.5 and heavy)
Nitto 555 255/45 and 285/40 tires

3691 lbs, full fuel and 150lb driver with HANS and helmet, trunk stripped.

FWIW, with the stock interior, no rollbar, and an automatic trans, it was 3719 on the same scales at tech.

Yeah, it's a fat pig. Anything of reasonable weight that I missed pulling? It's not a DD, but it is on the street occasionally, so...
 

Matt D

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Just adding to the tech:

2006 Mustang GT, manual

Steeda race cowl hood
Steeda competition fascia with billet duct inlets and no accy fogs
GT/CS rear fascia
stock brakes with Quantum ducts
BMR K-member brace
BMR swaybars, billet links in rear
Tokico dampers, BMR springs, MM C/C plates
ARH, offroad H, SLP stainless resonators, Flowmaster A/B
Canton Accusump, Pipeline oil filter blockoff, remote filter, Setrab oil cooler
BBR rear seat delete
Ultrashield race seats, Simpson 5-pt harnesses on both sides
Autopower 4-pt rollbar (race version with diagonal and harness tubes)
rear seatbelts deleted, kiddie seat anchors deleted
MM LCAs (rod), MM PHB (rod) BMR UCA (poly, adj.)
Spec 3+ clutch, AL flywheel, Spydershaft
removed axle damper weights, all brake shields
Canton aluminum PS and cooling burp tanks
Stef's air/oil separator
Steeda billet delete plates
C&L racer CAI
Moroso 1qt plastic vented overflow tank (coolant)
UPR polished stainless radiator shield and fuse box cover
Hood struts
Liquid Metal Static wheels (18x9.5 and heavy)
Nitto 555 255/45 and 285/40 tires

3691 lbs, full fuel and 150lb driver with HANS and helmet, trunk stripped.

FWIW, with the stock interior, no rollbar, and an automatic trans, it was 3719 on the same scales at tech.

Yeah, it's a fat pig. Anything of reasonable weight that I missed pulling? It's not a DD, but it is on the street occasionally, so...


put a 5 speed in that bitach :)
 

SoundGuyDave

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put a 5 speed in that bitach :)

Well, I pulled a FIVE SPEED automatic out, and put a FIVE SPEED manual in, so I'm not sure where you're going with that... trans swap, rear seat delete, swap stock leather (power driver) for race seats and harnesses, install a SCCA/NASA legal 4-point, and I dropped 28lbs total...
 

DusterRT

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Well, I pulled a FIVE SPEED automatic out, and put a FIVE SPEED manual in, so I'm not sure where you're going with that... trans swap, rear seat delete, swap stock leather (power driver) for race seats and harnesses, install a SCCA/NASA legal 4-point, and I dropped 28lbs total...


What did that Autopower race bar weigh roughly?
 

Matt D

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Well, I pulled a FIVE SPEED automatic out, and put a FIVE SPEED manual in, so I'm not sure where you're going with that... trans swap, rear seat delete, swap stock leather (power driver) for race seats and harnesses, install a SCCA/NASA legal 4-point, and I dropped 28lbs total...


Sorry that's what I ment put a 5 speed manual in it which you did
 

SoundGuyDave

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What did that Autopower race bar weigh roughly?

I never picked up the assembled bar, since you sort of build it in the car, but pulling it off the delivery truck, it was probably around 60-70lbs, I would bet. Not easy to pick up, but not a major pain, either. I'm just surprised I didn't drop more than that. The auto was a HELL of a lot heavier than the manual, but then again that had the (full) converter in it, and the clutch isn't a lightweight...

Upon reflection, if we consider the trans swap a wash, and trade the front seats for the bar, then the 30lb drop is probably about right... Damn.

The Autopower race bar is (per the rules) a lot more than you need for the strip, but it is confidence-inspiring on a road course, all that 1.75", 0.120-wall DOM steel...
 

Matt D

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Holy balls!!! that's impressive! good job man, now if only Ford would make them that weight off the assembly line.... :beerchug2:


This winter im going to try and knock off another 100 lbs :p

Take out the dash and remove the ac crap under there that I havn't taken out yet, drag brakes, coil overs, pass air bag, look under the carpet to see what can be taken out, maybe a carbon fiber trunk lid... lol
 

DusterRT

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I never picked up the assembled bar, since you sort of build it in the car, but pulling it off the delivery truck, it was probably around 60-70lbs, I would bet. Not easy to pick up, but not a major pain, either. I'm just surprised I didn't drop more than that. The auto was a HELL of a lot heavier than the manual, but then again that had the (full) converter in it, and the clutch isn't a lightweight...

Upon reflection, if we consider the trans swap a wash, and trade the front seats for the bar, then the 30lb drop is probably about right... Damn.

The Autopower race bar is (per the rules) a lot more than you need for the strip, but it is confidence-inspiring on a road course, all that 1.75", 0.120-wall DOM steel...


Wow, that's beefy..I was thinking 40-50-ish lbs. At least it's adding weight on the right end of the car, but 60-70# is considerable! I might have to drop by some shops to see what they'd want to make me up something similar in 4130..or this could be the perfect excuse to get a tubing bender and a Synchrowave...mmmm, TIG welder... :drool:
 

SoundGuyDave

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Wow, that's beefy..I was thinking 40-50-ish lbs. At least it's adding weight on the right end of the car, but 60-70# is considerable! I might have to drop by some shops to see what they'd want to make me up something similar in 4130..or this could be the perfect excuse to get a tubing bender and a Synchrowave...mmmm, TIG welder... :drool:


arrr,arrrr,arrrr,arrr....tig welder! Honestly, though, I don't know how much weight you'll save going to CM over the DOM, since this is really a pretty basic bar. One piece hoop, diagonal, the two harness tubes, and two rear brace tubes. It's a great excuse to buy some neat toys, but if it only saves you 10 or so lbs, I don't know if it's worth it from a cost/benefit standpoint. I would guess on around 35' MAX of tubing, you could look up the weight differential and price differential. For reference, I paid around $575 delivered for the bar. There has been a price increase since, but...
 

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