How to Vacuum Smoke Machine (poor boy way)

redstangs9308gt

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OK tomorrow I will take pics and you will have a better idea of everything.
I used regular mineral oil & wd-40 to make thick smoke. I would disconnect the air hose going to the air compressure put a little amount of oil in the canister, hook the hose back up and turn the power on to the glow plug and pump smoke through the vacuum hoses of the car. YOU MUST BLOCK OFF YOUR INTAKE EVERYTHING HAS TO BE SEALED UP OR THE PRESSURE WILL GO TO THE PLACE OF LEAST RESISTANCE.
This all started with
1985 f350 diesel glow plug 12volts Part number 1107 Autolite $9.99@AdvanceAuto
One metal pipe with threaded caps
One air hose fitting for air tools so you can hook to your air compressor (you must have a air pressure regular in line to reduce air pressure to around 10-20psi MAX with a cut off valve)
One transmission barbed fitting for 7/16th hose (going to T off into a vacuum line on your car)
One pressure gauge on your smoke machine to double check line pressure going to the vacuum hose. This will come in handy when keeping track of how much air pressure you are leaking off in a givin amount of time
I had to use a drill press to drill through the metal pipe and cap ends
I also had to buy threaders so I could just simply screw my glow plug, air chuck, gauge, and barbed fitting into the metal pipe.
Here is a drawing. Hope this helps yall as much as it helped me today. It is as handy as a shirt pocket. SideNote you can google this and there is several different ways of going about making this work. This is just my idea of what would work best for me. Some guys used heating elements out of like a hot water heater. Some guys was getting oil residue in with there smoke and they had to make something to abstact the oil residue. Do your research and this will get you close.
Smoke Machine.jpg
 
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redstangs9308gt

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Yup I know it. I was going to purchase a kit, you know if it was at a decent price but hell, this setup here was like $70 bucks. Had to spend more than that because I didn't already have the tools but still way cheaper than buying the kit. I had to purchase 2 drill bits that would drill through hardened steel. I also had to have a thread tap kit so I could screw the fittings into the pipe. A drill press is a must because there is no way your going to drill through the steel pipe caps, its very thick, and even if you did get through it with the hand drill I don't think your hole would be accurate enough to be able to seal everything up with thread tape.
 

redstangs9308gt

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There is a fun factor here, when you go to the hardware store to purchase your stuff, if you ask for help and try to explain what you are doing, they may look at you like your crazy or even possible a criminal. I guess they don't get too many people in there buying shit that could posssible be used to make a bomb lmfao. That guy keep telling me, "now you better be careful and don't get nobody else hurt"
 

skwerl

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Is there a reason why you didn't make it out of PVC? Schedule 40 is good for over 400psi and it's impervious to most petroleum products. You can also buy fitting known as a 'nut-sert' which is like a steel rivet threaded on the inside. Similar to what they used to use to mount side mirrors on trucks and vans 20-30 years ago. Drill a hole, install the nut-sert and you have a threaded steel hole ready to go.
 
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skwerl

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CPVC pipe is used for hot and cold water in houses. The plumbing on my hot water heater says it's rated for 100psi@ 180 degrees F.
 

redstangs9308gt

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Within 5 minutes the whole thing was so hot I had to get gloves on just to be able to add oil. Guessing outside temp was close to 275-350f
 

redstangs9308gt

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I would disconnect the air hose going to the air compressure. Add the oil and attach the hose back
 

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