If you Drag Race, PLEASE weld your axle tubes.

[BMR Tech]

I have been getting more and more calls about misaligned rear wheels within the rear fenders (front to back)

I have noticed a substantial increase in twisted axle tubes ever since the 2011+ Mustangs have been released. I am not sure whether it is the increased power, on average, the build quality, or a combination of both.

Please ensure you weld your axle tubes to your differential housing if you plan on attending the drag strip.

I have also noticed, most customers who end up having this issue, have at some point, experienced a good amount of wheel hop.

Not to scare anyone, but I have even had customers who have twisted their axle tubes with very mildly modded cars, on street/stock tires, on public roads. (2011+ Mustangs)

Better to be safe, than sorry.

 

[RazorbackMustang]

Will put on my list. Thanks!

 

[Blackbird1084]

I had a friend with a 2010 that had his axle tube slide 1/8th of an inch out of the diff housing and it destroyed his diff. The car had 962 miles on it and was on its first track pass. It had street tires as well.

 

[rayS197]

Here is an alternative to welding if you so choose.

http://www.cheperformance.com/prod-211.htm

 

[Godzirra]

Oh crap... I've noticed caster issues on my car since I put on Bmr relocation brackets and stallion lca's... I also just replaced factory diff which was destroyed with a true trac. Is there anything that can be done now? I thought maybe something was just out of spec with my brackets or lca's and I was gonna get adjustables to remedy the issue. Haven't noticed anything weird except the caster being off...I just had the rear rebuilt and the guy who built it didn't mention anything about being twisted. How does one go about checking for a twisted axle tube and is it fixable? Am I screwed?

 

[Wicked97]

It can be fixed with the right tools just not in your driveway. Most Chassis shop that are able to shorten a rear could do the fix. We can fix them if you have an issue as well but its not like we are real close to most of you guys.

 

[Flapjack]

Great advice. While the welder is under there, might as well get your LCA relocation brackets welded on, too.

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2

 

[Chilliwack 42]

I've said this before and I'll say it again for someone reading this who think they can just run a bead along the tubing where it meets the housing. If you can weld at least make sure you do it right(pre heat, post heat, use the right type of wire, and so on). There's a lot of info online to help. If you don't know what you're doing take it to someone who does.

I was reading a thread a while ago where members on this forum were talking about just running a bead and how easy it would be. You could be doing a lot more damage than good.

The other weekend my buddy had his axle tubes come out even though they were welded by someone who builds diffs for a living and is very trusted. My buddy destroyed a set of tires with maybe 10 passes on them and came close to smoking the barrier at our local track. You couldn't even fit your hand between the car and the barrier.

 

[weather man]

Here is an alternative to welding if you so choose.

http://www.cheperformance.com/prod-211.htm

Did not know that part existed. Grade "A" tech. Thanks Ray!

 

[rayS197]

Did not know that part existed. Grade "A" tech. Thanks Ray!

NP. Give Chuck a call @ CHE. He has them in stock.

 

[Bud]

Mark Williams here in Colorado will weld the axle tubes and weld on 9" ends in a jig to keep everything straight for $310 labor charges. Nice to know it is all straight, solid, and able to pass tech.

Anybody know who has the cheapest jig setup, I think MW charges around 6 bills for their setup so I just had them do the work as it was cheaper and their welds looked nice.

 

[ArtQ]

If you are just welding the axle tubes to the center section you really don't need a jig. If your welding on new ends, 9" for example, then yes, you want to use a jig to square up the ends to the center point. The axle tube itself extends in to the center section and is plug welded from the factory. Under hard launches or alot of wheel hop, the center section and the suspension points put streess on the plug weld. The drive axles themselves ride on a bearing in the outer tube and provide no stress to the tube. It's the control arm points vs the center section movement that provides the torque load. If you are using enough heat during the weld process to actually distort the axle tube, thats way over kill for what you are trying to accomplish. The center section is cast steel which is relatively simple to weld, unlike cast iron which requires more of a technical process to do it right. The axle tubes are mild steel. Which ever welding process you are using, use enough heat to penetrate the center section and flow in to the tube. It doesn't take a ton of heat and basically reinforces and spreads the load around the axle tube rather than just relying on the two plug welds to hold. Now if you want to prevent the tubes from bending, not twisting, then an axle brace is what you need.

 

[Bmr4life]

Oh crap... I've noticed caster issues on my car since I put on Bmr relocation brackets and stallion lca's... I also just replaced factory diff which was destroyed with a true trac. Is there anything that can be done now? I thought maybe something was just out of spec with my brackets or lca's and I was gonna get adjustables to remedy the issue. Haven't noticed anything weird except the caster being off...I just had the rear rebuilt and the guy who built it didn't mention anything about being twisted. How does one go about checking for a twisted axle tube and is it fixable? Am I screwed?

Try the LCA's without the relocation brackets. You don't have to take them (the brackets) all the way off to do so.

 

[Godzirra]

Here is an alternative to welding if you so choose.

http://www.cheperformance.com/prod-211.htm

Not sure if this will work with the bmr brackets though from the way it looks.

 

[wbt]

Here is an alternative to welding if you so choose.

http://www.cheperformance.com/prod-211.htm

+1

Ran this on my 2011 and never had an issue with axle tube flex. I did break an axle due to power/traction however the spider gears and everything outside of the axle survived due to the brace.

 

[wbt]

Not sure if this will work with the bmr brackets though from the way it looks.

Run the CHE brackets then. They are stronger and don't require welding.

 

[striker 5]

I stick weld mine with 7018 l/h never had a problem but I also weld for a living .

 

[555]

 

[BMR Tech]

Run the CHE brackets then. They are stronger and don't require welding.

They are stronger? When did you test this to verify?

Ours do not require welding either. I have stated that in response to your misinformed posts, a few times now. I assume you just do not want to accept what I have to say.

 

[BMR Tech]

Oh crap... I've noticed caster issues on my car since I put on Bmr relocation brackets and stallion lca's... I also just replaced factory diff which was destroyed with a true trac. Is there anything that can be done now? I thought maybe something was just out of spec with my brackets or lca's and I was gonna get adjustables to remedy the issue. Haven't noticed anything weird except the caster being off...I just had the rear rebuilt and the guy who built it didn't mention anything about being twisted. How does one go about checking for a twisted axle tube and is it fixable? Am I screwed?

Give me a call at the office tomorrow. I would be glad to work with you to get it figured out.