Input on shock/strut setting on street.

Discussion in 'Drag Racing Tech Discussion & Timeslips' started by 06StangGT, Jul 23, 2020.

  1. 06StangGT

    06StangGT forum member

    166
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    Hoping this is the right page for this. The car is setup for the track. I haven’t taken it to the track yet on the new setup but would like to practice the launching on my backroad behind the house. I understand that it would be different on the track, but I’m curious to see what it will do on the street with minimal prep (most likely just Dr. Pepper? I’ve read that works)

    What would be a good starting point as far as compression and rebound settings on this setup for street duty? Launch RPM off the 2 step? Tire pressure?

    Steeda LCA with BMR brackets
    Steeda Pan hard bar with brace
    Strange single adjustable struts
    Viking crusaders
    BMR drag springs front and rear
    MT ET street SS 275/50/15 on 10” wheel.
    17x4.5 pizza cutters up front.

    Thank you
     
  2. Rich Grundza

    Rich Grundza Junior Member

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    12
    I'm running a 13 auto with BMR LCA and brackets, strange singles rear and front, 1" drop rear, same MT's on 10" with the pizza cutters. With minimal track prep ( street night) I've run 16 lbs air 1-2 up front and 4-5 in rear, at least that was what strange recommended. I've gone 0 up front and not seen any difference. I'm trying to break into ten's, I'm at 11.2 with edelbrock e force stage 3, just went to Kooks long tubes with Green cats. Running Brenspeed tune that came with supercharger, not sure if active timing is set with this tune so I may have Lund remote tune, but that remains to be seen. Hard to get to a track in covid days and now with temps in upper 80's low 90's not worth going!
     
    06StangGT likes this.
  3. jam07GT

    jam07GT forum member

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    4
    You can't set compression and rebound separately on that shock. I run them. I would start a click or two above the middle setting for the rear shocks. I've run strange single adjustables and I set them to 6. I think 11 is the stiffest setting. I am sure your car has more power than my car does, but I would start there. I have the stock springs too.

    I was able to get away with 22 PSI with the MT ET streets, but, again, a lot less power than you, just NA with cams and headers, etc. But you will probably end up between 16-20 psi with them, depending on track prep and conditions. I have a hellcat, too, and most run them at 16-18 psi. You want the most tire pressure you can have while still maintaining traction. I'd try 18 psi and see if it hooks, and then work up or down from there, a pound at a time. I don't think you want to go less than 16 or 17 unless you want to have the high speed wobbles at the big end of the track. That's no fun.
     
    Last edited: Aug 7, 2020
  4. jam07GT

    jam07GT forum member

    92
    4
    Hey also, if you are running your car hard, especially with a stick, I would look into getting a CHE rear axle brace. I have one and they are pretty trick. No need to weld up the tubes and all that. I have the BMR lowering brackets and the bmr sway bar, and install with the brace was pretty easy. Did have to weld one thing in order to use the sway bar setup I had, but nothing major. It's a great piece and probably a good idea for the power level you have. I am going to add a 100 shot once I get my trans fixed and get back to racing my car. Stock internals.

    One other thing, it's really hard to run a drag radial tire with a stick, and I assume with being boosted you have a lot of power. Most everyone runs stiff sidewall slicks with a stick car. Let me know how it goes with the drag radials. It's going to take some serious practice. It's really challenging. I used to have a 69 chevelle with a muncie 4 speed, 427 CI motor, 520 fwhp and 540 tq, line lock, two step, etc. Takes some serious practice.

    I'm looking forward to hearing how your experiment goes.
     
  5. 06StangGT

    06StangGT forum member

    166
    27
    Thanks for the reply. The shock I’m running is the double adjustable. The B326AM. Before I made the original post, I had read through the entire manual from Viking, but it was the wrong one. A friend forwarded me the Tuning Guide that apparently I didn’t get with my set of shocks. There are some good tips on where to set the compression and rebound based on what I’m trying to achieve.
    I haven’t been to the track since 2008 when the car was otherwise stock, so I’m just trying to get some practice in beforehand with launching off a two step. These radials are older tires I’ve had for a few seasons (car doesn’t get driven much) so the next set will be a good slick.
    I appreciate your input.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
  6. jam07GT

    jam07GT forum member

    92
    4
    I think MT suggests that for those tires you do a big burnout for your first pass of the day, and then you just "haze" them after that. In other words, until they just start to smoke and then drive out of your burnout.

    Your sig says "built and boosted". What exactly is your setup?
     
  7. jam07GT

    jam07GT forum member

    92
    4
    [QUOTE="
    I haven’t been to the track since 2008 when the car was otherwise stock, so I’m just trying to get some practice in beforehand with launching off a two step. These radials are older tires I’ve had for a few seasons (car doesn’t get driven much) so the next set will be a good slick.
    I appreciate your input.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk[/QUOTE]

    You're welcome.

    I've never had a car that was fast enough to need double adjustables, ha ha.

    There are a number of people who have fast stick cars, so you will get plenty of good advice on slicks and running the manual transmission.

    I am trying to remember how I had my 2 step wired. I had my line lock and two step on the same button, but I had a toggle switch on the two step. I would have my two step off during my burnout, and then when I went to stage I would flip the toggle, and then my two step and line lock were both on and on the same button. Kept me from rolling out of the beams.
     
  8. 06StangGT

    06StangGT forum member

    166
    27
    Saleen extreme 302. CP pistons, Kellogg crank, Manley H beams, lots of ARP. Todd Warren blower cams, springs, 2200SL converted to blow through. Fuel system, Holley manifold, lots of suspension goodies. The list never ends


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
  9. 8sec_lx

    8sec_lx Junior Member

    23
    5
    I used to run the Strange at 7 and the Viking shocks at 1c / 3r on the street.
     
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  10. 07 Boss

    07 Boss Senior Member

    3,451
    680
    Crusader shocks come with different valving depending on which ones you got. Here is the chart from Viking going over some good starting points. When I ran these I started with the suggested setting and I don't think I deviated more than one or two clicks in either direction.

    Drag-Lower Horsepower (“DL” kit) – CrusaderTM “AD” Front & “AJ” Rear Valving

    Ride Quality/Street:
    Front (“AD”): 1 - 4 compression; 5 - 9 rebound
    Rear (“AJ”): 0 - 3 compression; 3 - 7 rebound
    .
    Handling:
    Front (“AD”): 8 - 12 compression; 14 - 18 rebound
    Rear (“AJ”): 7 - 11 compression; 11 - 15 rebound

    Drag Racing:
    Front (“AD”): 12 - 16 compression; 0 - 4 rebound (weight transfer)
    Rear (“AJ”): 0 - 4 compression; 6 - 10 rebound


    Drag-Higher Horsepower (“DH” kit) – CrusaderTM “AP” Front & “AM” Rear Valving

    Ride Quality/Street:
    Front (“AP”): 1 - 4 compression; 3 - 6 rebound
    Rear (“AM”): 0 - 3 compression; 3 - 6 rebound

    Handling:
    Front (“AP”): 8 - 12 compression; 10 - 14 rebound
    Rear (“AM”): 7 - 11 compression; 12 - 16 rebound

    Drag Racing:
    Front (“AP”): 8 - 12 compression; 15 - 19 rebound (front tie-down)
    Rear (“AM”): 7 - 11 compression; 8 - 14 rebound

    Drag Racing:
    Front (“AP”): 12 - 16 compression; 0 - 4 rebound (weight transfer)
    Rear (“AM”): 0 - 4 compression; 6 - 12 rebound


    Pro-Touring (“PT” kit) - CrusaderTM “AP” Valving

    Ride Quality/Street:
    Front (“AP”): 1 - 4 compression; 3 - 6 rebound
    Rear (“AP”): 0 - 3 compression; 1 - 4 rebound

    Handling:
    Front (“AP”): 8 - 12 compression; 10 - 14 rebound
    Rear (“AP”): 7 - 11 compression; 8 - 12 rebound

    Drag Racing:
    Front (“AP”): 8 - 12 compression; 15 - 19 rebound (front tie-down)
    Rear (“AP”): 7 - 11 compression; 6 - 10 rebound

    Drag Racing:
    Front (“AP”): 12 - 16 compression; 0 - 4 rebound (weight transfer)
    Rear (“AP”): 0 - 4 compression; 4 - 8 rebound N
     
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