JBA long tube install

Juice

forum member
Joined
Aug 24, 2017
Posts
4,622
Reaction score
1,904
Some tell me why I decided to fix something that was not broken? lol

So this is a PITA to install LTH on a coyote, but the job is progressing. Got the right side done, and have pulled the stock shorty off the driver side. The biggest pain in the ass is getting to the bolts on reassembly. The starter, motor mount plate has to be removed. Reinstalling the starter, getting to the top bolt is fun! But the header does fit and went in place without too much trouble.

I will be attempting to feed the left side into place after work.
 

MasterofDisaster

Senior Member
Joined
Jun 10, 2019
Posts
872
Reaction score
1,353
Location
Michigan
My sympathy, brother. I used the longest extension I had for that top bolt on the starter. For the other side I had to stand on a box to reach over the headers to install the top row of bolts.

Take your time. It will all be worth it.
 

Juice

forum member
Joined
Aug 24, 2017
Posts
4,622
Reaction score
1,904
My sympathy, brother. I used the longest extension I had for that top bolt on the starter. For the other side I had to stand on a box to reach over the headers to install the top row of bolts.

Take your time. It will all be worth it.
lol, I sure hope so. Will re-dyno as I have to know the gains on this job!

So I got the left side on and tight. I had to use one of the included bolts for the bottom rear header bolt as there was no way to get a 15mm wrench or socket on there. I am a little disappointed with where the left collector is, it is really close to the frame rail and may contact frame possibly. I will try to tweak it a bit.
 

JEWC_Motorsports

S197 Junkie
S197 Team Member
Joined
Aug 22, 2010
Posts
20,471
Reaction score
1,596
Location
Texas
Cmon man, its only a 2 hour job for both sides. Seriously though, a long extension makes it easier, i used a 2 ft 3/8 one to do the starter bolts.
 

Juice

forum member
Joined
Aug 24, 2017
Posts
4,622
Reaction score
1,904
Cmon man, its only a 2 hour job for both sides. Seriously though, a long extension makes it easier, i used a 2 ft 3/8 one to do the starter bolts.
This is not a complaint thread. Im just posting my experience of installing coyote headers. Im not asking for any tips or anything. lol
2 hour job?? No way. But I do take my time for a few reasons: Im not as young anymore, and I dont want a "comeback".
 

Pentalab

forum member
Joined
Mar 5, 2013
Posts
5,215
Reaction score
1,104
I have JBA LT's on my 2010. That was the one mod that actually did something. The difference was blatantly obvious, night and day.
 

Juice

forum member
Joined
Aug 24, 2017
Posts
4,622
Reaction score
1,904
I have JBA LT's on my 2010. That was the one mod that actually did something. The difference was blatantly obvious, night and day.
That is the reason I am doing this HP and I will re-dyno. I would be happy with anything over 15 HP. 420 rwhp or better, and Id say it was worth the effort.
 

Pentalab

forum member
Joined
Mar 5, 2013
Posts
5,215
Reaction score
1,104
That is the reason I am doing this HP and I will re-dyno. I would be happy with anything over 15 HP. 420 rwhp or better, and Id say it was worth the effort.
I bought 'titanium ceramic' instead of the slightly cheaper 'silver ceramic'. Mine is battleship grey.
The 8 x primaries are the coolest thing under the hood. I turn the blower on full bore in 2nd gear, 2 blocks from home, get out,and everything under the hood is hot... except for the 8 x primaries. I can push down on any of em with my fingers, and just warm.

My theory is since they are ceramic coated both inside and outside, that the internal temps of the exhaust gases are hotter. The hotter the internal gases are, the faster they will flow, which I believe is a huge chunk of the effect I'm seeing.

After the LT install, we did a dyno test ( 1st and only dyno test)..and it was a tiny bit lean, so VMP tweaked the tune slightly. I had em tune before..and after the LT install, for 94 octane (no ethanol in our 94 octane). The jba lt's are longer than kooks, and the tq curve is shifted slightly lower..where I want it. After the LT's went in, the tq increase was phenomenal. Now it pulls like a mofo, whether nblower is on..or not. Of course it pulls a lot harder with blower on. It's 'free' hp + tq, and works in NA m ode, or blower mode. The mating jba catted H works good, and new hi-flow cats reside under the front seats. That eliminates a ton of heat vs oem cats at bottom of eng bay. The ceramic coated LT's also eliminate a ton of eng bay heat. It's a huge drop in under hood temps.

Before, my steeda ( black) stb ran hot, not it doesn't.

I also installed a 7 bar upper grille, which eliminated the 2 x 90 deg bends for air entering the 'snorkel' that in turn feeds air into the oem airbox. Now it's straight into the 'snorkel'. Also installed a K+N panel filter into the oem airbox. Also installed the FRPP twin 62mm TB. The whole package comes together finally.

Some other related mods were the eaton tru trac LSD, DSS-DS..and also the whiteline watts link. ...+ a ton of other suspension mods.
 

Juice

forum member
Joined
Aug 24, 2017
Posts
4,622
Reaction score
1,904
I do believe I have the titanium ceramic. ;) Greenish-grey color, and yes, the insides are also coated. I'm liking the reduced heat benefit. While I never overheated or even ran hot, and I have run track events in 100*F heat, any cooling benefit is welcome.
 

JEWC_Motorsports

S197 Junkie
S197 Team Member
Joined
Aug 22, 2010
Posts
20,471
Reaction score
1,596
Location
Texas
This is not a complaint thread. Im just posting my experience of installing coyote headers. Im not asking for any tips or anything. lol
2 hour job?? No way. But I do take my time for a few reasons: Im not as young anymore, and I dont want a "comeback".
Now you cant take alittle ribbing? 2 hour job, absolutely...with the right tools.
 

Juice

forum member
Joined
Aug 24, 2017
Posts
4,622
Reaction score
1,904
Now you cant take alittle ribbing? 2 hour job, absolutely...with the right tools.

Rib away! lol
I think it took me 2 hours just to get to the passenger side. That 2 hours included:set it on jackstands (4), remove cats, xpipe, batt &tray, PCM, and overflow bottle. Maybe there is more room in an 11&up? It sure is tight in an 07.
 

Pentalab

forum member
Joined
Mar 5, 2013
Posts
5,215
Reaction score
1,104
I do believe I have the titanium ceramic. ;) Greenish-grey color, and yes, the insides are also coated. I'm liking the reduced heat benefit. While I never overheated or even ran hot, and I have run track events in 100*F heat, any cooling benefit is welcome.
I used a fluke 62 IR..and probed every where. I saw a good 40 deg F heat redux. The oem cats at base of the eng bay, cook the eng bay. Oem exhaust manifold runs stupid hot..and also cooks the eng bay. In my case, with my 2010 auto, tossing the oem upper grille, and replacing with a 7 bar grille
(upper foglamp delete) meant one helluva lot more airflow into the upper grille. My roush 2010 M90 uses a 18" tall x 21" wide HE. The oem upper grille blocks off 80% of the airflow, fubar oem upper grille. With the new 7 bar upper grille, the HE now gets hit with air from both the upper and lower grille. Way more airflow, + dumping the heat from oem cats and oem exhaust manifold resulted in the 40 deg F under hood heat redux.
 

JEWC_Motorsports

S197 Junkie
S197 Team Member
Joined
Aug 22, 2010
Posts
20,471
Reaction score
1,596
Location
Texas
Most likely yes, didn't have to take anything out but the battery and tray, pull starter and motor mount and out comes the stock header.
 

eighty6gt

forum member
Joined
May 9, 2011
Posts
4,299
Reaction score
405
My set of the exact same headers do not stay as cool. I would blast my fingers off touching them after running lol

Really nice quality stuff but I got a factory seconds 3" H that I had to have expanded. It had pieces added on to it in Mexico. Scratching my head figuring that out. Maybe returned to summit?
 

Pentalab

forum member
Joined
Mar 5, 2013
Posts
5,215
Reaction score
1,104
My set of the exact same headers do not stay as cool. I would blast my fingers off touching them after running lol

Really nice quality stuff but I got a factory seconds 3" H that I had to have expanded. It had pieces added on to it in Mexico. Scratching my head figuring that out. Maybe returned to summit?
I used their 2.5" LT collector option, and also their 2.5" hi-flow catted H mid section.... which then mates with the oem aft 2.5" section..... that mates with the pair of M80 resonators....then more 2.5" into the pair of FRPP FRS-500 mufflers. By keeping the entire mess 2.5", it was all plug and play and all went together nicely.
 

Juice

forum member
Joined
Aug 24, 2017
Posts
4,622
Reaction score
1,904
I wont have to deal with h/x pipe issues. The headers included 3"collector attachments. I will be welding the cats to that and the X from the magnaflow catted mid. Have to add after cat bungs. First project for the TIG setup.
 

Support us!

Support Us - Become A Supporting Member Today!

Click Here For Details

Sponsor Links

Banner image
Back
Top