Hatchman
Stangless
I was planning to do a very detailed DIY on my Katzkin leather install, but after seeing how it was done, and seeing how self explanatory it is, I thought not.
But, here are some hints/tips for those thinking of doing it.
1. Watch the video on newtakeoff.com and motorz, and that will get you about 80% trained.
Motorz TV How to install Katzkins on a Mustang
2. Only two sockets needed, a 12mm and a 15mm.
3. Four 15mm bolts hold the seat backs to the lowers, two on each side. They will have to be separated for the install.
4. Power seat button pops straight off. Head rest removed by inserting small screwdriver in hole opposite of pushbutton. Recline handle removal just like window crank handles, need to pop off the c clip holding handle to mounting pin, can use special tool or even small screwdriver.
5. Seat brackets are made by Gillette and will cut through anything they come in contact with, especially door sills and center consoles (ask me how I know).
6. Install the new skins before doing any cutting. There a few spots like the head rest holes and recline lever on the front seat backs that will need to be cut.
7. Lubricating plastic bags under headrests makes it much easier to slide new leather skins on. I used Eagle One Nano Protectant which is a Vinyl and Leather cleaner and conditioner as a lubricant.
8. Factory take-offs can be removed without any cutting/mod. Easily sold and reinstalled on a cloth S197, if so desired.
BTW, I used the Eagle one Nano-Protectant for the seats for several reasons.
1. The seats are half leather and half vinyl and you can use the same product for both.
2. Satin finish with no sticky or greasy residue.
3. Cleans and protects
4. UV protection
But one other: Smells like..., well, lets say it's not so good.
Katzkin product opinion:
1. Good stuff, factory quality or better.
2. Was hoping they would be softer than stock, but they are just a tad stiffer than stock, should last longer though. Katzkin has a Tuscany option that is higher quality and probably softer.
3. Fit is pretty good. I got the side airbag version and put in on a non side airbag car, so a tad baggy in those spots.
4. As stated, they do require some cutting/trimming to fit, but easy to do with a razor, or just use the seat brackets (j/k).
5. Was hoping they would be all leather, but they are only leather where your butt sits and your back rests against, just like factory front seats. Unlike the factory, the front of the head rest is also leather, an added plus. Of course, the rear seats have leather on the butt/back portions, which the factory seats are not.
Install special tools:
Hog rings and pliers. I didn't reuse the hog rings nor get a set of hog ring pliers. I cut the hog rings and replaced them with pretty thick, quality zip ties. Some say the zip ties will dry rot and snap and that is why they still use hog rings, but I disagree. The hog rings are attached to a small plastic rod that is run through the seat foam. There is only about 1/4 of an inch of foam over these rods set inside the seat foam. It is VERY easy to pull this rod right out of this tiny layer of super flimsy foam seat material (ask me how I know) covering this rod. So I figured after ten years, my dry, crusty, dry rotten zip tie will still have about 100 times the tensile strength over my 1/4" of 15 year (car's already 5 years) old seat foam. Feel free to conduct your on tests and prove me wrong in 10 years, and I'll buy you a beer.
Other than that, I only used a few sockets, phillips screwdriver, one small torx bit, razor, hole punch, trim removal tool (a must for all the plastic pins!), flat head screwdriver, and other common hand tools. Your hands will probably be sore the next day from all the pulling/tugging/prying.
Anyway, here are the pics.
Hope this helps someone, someday.
But, here are some hints/tips for those thinking of doing it.
1. Watch the video on newtakeoff.com and motorz, and that will get you about 80% trained.
Motorz TV How to install Katzkins on a Mustang
2. Only two sockets needed, a 12mm and a 15mm.
3. Four 15mm bolts hold the seat backs to the lowers, two on each side. They will have to be separated for the install.
4. Power seat button pops straight off. Head rest removed by inserting small screwdriver in hole opposite of pushbutton. Recline handle removal just like window crank handles, need to pop off the c clip holding handle to mounting pin, can use special tool or even small screwdriver.
5. Seat brackets are made by Gillette and will cut through anything they come in contact with, especially door sills and center consoles (ask me how I know).
6. Install the new skins before doing any cutting. There a few spots like the head rest holes and recline lever on the front seat backs that will need to be cut.
7. Lubricating plastic bags under headrests makes it much easier to slide new leather skins on. I used Eagle One Nano Protectant which is a Vinyl and Leather cleaner and conditioner as a lubricant.
8. Factory take-offs can be removed without any cutting/mod. Easily sold and reinstalled on a cloth S197, if so desired.
BTW, I used the Eagle one Nano-Protectant for the seats for several reasons.
1. The seats are half leather and half vinyl and you can use the same product for both.
2. Satin finish with no sticky or greasy residue.
3. Cleans and protects
4. UV protection
But one other: Smells like..., well, lets say it's not so good.
Katzkin product opinion:
1. Good stuff, factory quality or better.
2. Was hoping they would be softer than stock, but they are just a tad stiffer than stock, should last longer though. Katzkin has a Tuscany option that is higher quality and probably softer.
3. Fit is pretty good. I got the side airbag version and put in on a non side airbag car, so a tad baggy in those spots.
4. As stated, they do require some cutting/trimming to fit, but easy to do with a razor, or just use the seat brackets (j/k).
5. Was hoping they would be all leather, but they are only leather where your butt sits and your back rests against, just like factory front seats. Unlike the factory, the front of the head rest is also leather, an added plus. Of course, the rear seats have leather on the butt/back portions, which the factory seats are not.
Install special tools:
Hog rings and pliers. I didn't reuse the hog rings nor get a set of hog ring pliers. I cut the hog rings and replaced them with pretty thick, quality zip ties. Some say the zip ties will dry rot and snap and that is why they still use hog rings, but I disagree. The hog rings are attached to a small plastic rod that is run through the seat foam. There is only about 1/4 of an inch of foam over these rods set inside the seat foam. It is VERY easy to pull this rod right out of this tiny layer of super flimsy foam seat material (ask me how I know) covering this rod. So I figured after ten years, my dry, crusty, dry rotten zip tie will still have about 100 times the tensile strength over my 1/4" of 15 year (car's already 5 years) old seat foam. Feel free to conduct your on tests and prove me wrong in 10 years, and I'll buy you a beer.
Other than that, I only used a few sockets, phillips screwdriver, one small torx bit, razor, hole punch, trim removal tool (a must for all the plastic pins!), flat head screwdriver, and other common hand tools. Your hands will probably be sore the next day from all the pulling/tugging/prying.
Anyway, here are the pics.
Hope this helps someone, someday.
Last edited:
