Koni yellows pair best with...

[irishpwr46]

velgen VMB7

http://velgenwheels.com/project/velgen-wheels-2/

 

[Norm Peterson]

Steeda springs are on their way.. I was also told that the stock upper strut mounts won't hold up that long and I should look into having them upgraded/replaced when install the rest of the new parts. What should I get??

I think the Steeda HD strut mounts would be a good match for your struts and springs. More durable and with really easy camber correction. Just make sure you get the right part number (I don't know offhand what year your car is).


Norm

 

[BMR Tech]

I think you will enjoy those springs.

I have a feeling you are going to end up wishing you went with a stiffer spring though.

Are the ones you went with, one of their sets that includes a rear 2.5" Hyperco coilover spring?

 

[blackGTny]

I think you will enjoy those springs.

I have a feeling you are going to end up wishing you went with a stiffer spring though.

Are the ones you went with, one of their sets that includes a rear 2.5" Hyperco coilover spring?

I hope so! I can always swap them out for something else if I end up not liking the Steedas.

This is the set I ordered: http://www.steeda.com/2005-2010-mustang-parts/#/product/1333 - no hyperco spring

 

[csamsh]

Kelly have you guys looked at doing a stock-style linear front spring in the neighborhood of 350-400 in-lb? Could any of the aftermarket struts you've messed with handle that?

That rate combined with a coilover rear spring on a weight jacker would seem like a good product to me...limited ability to move weight around and do ride height adjustment, and easy ability to change rear rate.

Lack of front spring rate seems to be job #2 (after wheels/tires) for getting an S197 to turn (in my opinion).

 

[MustASH]

Just finished to install my Koni Sport on H&R Race, with MM Cc plates :

Can't wait to see the improvement on track !


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Mark Aubele]

Kelly have you guys looked at doing a stock-style linear front spring in the neighborhood of 350-400 in-lb? Could any of the aftermarket struts you've messed with handle that?

That rate combined with a coilover rear spring on a weight jacker would seem like a good product to me...limited ability to move weight around and do ride height adjustment, and easy ability to change rear rate.

Lack of front spring rate seems to be job #2 (after wheels/tires) for getting an S197 to turn (in my opinion).

Shocked no one has done it. H&R race are close but lower the car way too much.

 

[SlowJim]

They are only advertised at 1.5" all around... do they end up lowering more than that?

 

[BMR Tech]

Yes, I went up past 300lb/in.

I tested them with Koni Yellows and Bilsteins.

I did not like it. At all.

Like I said above, I was on a mission to provide the stiffest spring I felt comfortable with, with stock location and style dampers....and 240-260 range was the highest I felt comfortable with.

I will say, I think the 260lb springs with our 38mm Front bar is a homerun.

 

[csamsh]

Yes, I went up past 300lb/in.

I tested them with Koni Yellows and Bilsteins.

I did not like it. At all.

Thought you might say that...I guess it takes a revalve or a race damper to take a big spring

 

[MustASH]

They are only advertised at 1.5" all around... do they end up lowering more than that?

I'd say almost 2" on my vert.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Mark Aubele]

Yes, I went up past 300lb/in.

I tested them with Koni Yellows and Bilsteins.

I did not like it. At all.

Like I said above, I was on a mission to provide the stiffest spring I felt comfortable with, with stock location and style dampers....and 240-260 range was the highest I felt comfortable with.



I will say, I think the 260lb springs with our 38mm Front bar is a homerun.

What didn't you like about it? Running 550s up front and still have a full turn of rebound damping left. Although I have raised upper mounts and I only have the car 1" lower than stock so I have a decent amount of travel.

Springs in the mid 300s had the car on the bumpstops everywhere. I would like to run much stiffer than I am but I know I am at the upper limit of the Konis.

 

[BMR Tech]

Post #10, I shared some info.

I did not test the springs on a slick. I wish I would have.

The majority of the testing was done on Nittos and Toyo tires.

The car felt unstable and jittery. The springs I used were exactly a 1" drop.

The set I put on a 14 GT500 with Bilsteins, barely dropped the car at all....it was really close to the Track Pack ride height. (0.2" lower)

The S550's have a similar front strut set-up. I am testing a 300lb/in spring on a few as soon as the aftermarket catches up. I may be getting some protoype Koni stuff, and I am going to try and chat with them about some stuff.

 

[blackGTny]

Just finished to install my Koni Sport on H&R Race, with MM Cc plates :

Can't wait to see the improvement on track !


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Nice!! Those wheels are 18s?? How does it feel on the street so far? Your drop looks a lot lower than I wouldve expected with your setup, still looks clean though!

 

[GoinDrivin]

Sorry to sidetrack, but is there an advantage to having the rake in the Mustang? Granted, I'm about to do the suspension on my '05 GT and have narrowed it down to the BMRs but was curious why most manufacturers go with an even drop (1" all the way around, for example) as opposed to leveling the rear with the front.

 

[MustASH]

Nice!! Those wheels are 18s?? How does it feel on the street so far? Your drop looks a lot lower than I wouldve expected with your setup, still looks clean though!

Yes wheels are 18s. As I didn't run much the setup yet, the only thing I could say is that the ride is much comfortable on street than the oem shocks, but veryyyyy stiff at the same time. I set them at full soft at this time, but I'll ajust when I'll track it. Also, I didn't reinstall my eibach rear swaybar.

More feedbacks to come...

 

[DPE]

While on the subject, I run Ford P-springs on my Koni Sports with the Steeda upper mounts. Lowered the car approximately 20mm all around, which I liked. But I'm going to have to agree with Kelly; progressive springs are not great on this car. I'd never really had issue with them in the past on different vehicles, but these springs are clearly for those who want the drop and don't care all that much about performance (and perhaps do care a lot about ride; rides better than OEM with the Konis turned down, which is nice). Not that it's bad, and the setup is night and day compared to stock Brembo Pkg parts, but the springs allow too much flop before taking a set. In comparison, on my 2010 I had the same setup but kept the OEM springs (which I believe are linear, or at least act more linear?), and it just generally felt more taut and more responsive to initial inputs.

Kelly, do the BMR handling springs lower a full 1.5" front and rear? You mentioned above that you were testing some springs with only a 1" drop, which I find ideal. 1.5" is a little lower than I'd prefer, but I'm thinking of giving them a shot as a winter project to see if it cleans up the handling a bit. Maybe put them on with your new Watts Link, while I'm at it .

 

[JerryZ]

I just recently installed them with the 11-14 specific Koni Sports; they lowered 0.75" front and 1.5" rear. The ride height really looks perfect and the ride is awesome. I agree with you that lowering springs should be linear. My last car had Eibach progressives and I was always scraping on speed bumps.

 

[TGR96]

Don't forget an adjustable pan hard bar, lower control arm relocation brackets, and caster camber plates. And put an adjustable upper control arm on you list as well. When you lower these cars, there are several supporting mods to consider if you want to do it right.

 

[Mark Aubele]

I don't consider the relocation brackets or upper arm mandatory. I found the wheelhop went away almost completely when I lowered the car 1".

I realize there are other reasons for the two parts but I think the car works pretty well as it is.