Long tube headers - 5.0 Coyote

Steven210

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Just an FYI depending on what sound you're looking for, the X pipe will give you a raspy sound. The H pipe will be a deeper tone
I have a JBA H pipe and like the sound. Thought about trying something different. Not sure if I’ll like the raspy sound though.

Pypes long tube headers are Chinese replicas of the Kooks.
I heard that the steering shaft hits the header.
 
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Dino Dino Bambino

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I heard that the steering shaft hits the header.

That's a common problem with many headers. Clearancing either by denting one of the header primaries or shifting the engine slightly over towards the passenger side solves the problem. Some also elect to swap in urethane engine mounts.
 

JEWC_Motorsports

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Did you have the tune revised when you switched headers?


No, most tuners for the Coyote turn on adaptive learning and no revision is needed.

I heard that the steering shaft hits the header.

I did not have to do any modifying of the headers to get everything to fit. You have to jack the engine up so naturally you have to adjust things when you lower it back down. Its easy.
 

Disarray

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While I don't have a Coyote, I'm very happy with my Kooks long tubes and catted H-pipe. Sound good, and top end feels stronger.
 

CorteXracing

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They are for 11-14 Mustang GTs which have Coyote engine. Not sure if there is a such thing as "coyote swap" headers for 05-10 cars. For that application you just order 11-14 headers.
 

Dino Dino Bambino

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Not even close. The headers are very different. Kooks are a midlength, and headers are long tubes. I have had both. Kooks dont burn up o2's on e85, pypes do.

According to this video, it's the placement of the O2 sensors in the header collectors that can make all the difference.

 

MrBhp

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As to fitment, for every brand I've installed on the twenty or more s197s and 550s: About 50 percent have interference with the steering shaft. Out of that 50 percent, Pypes are the biggest offenders. Easily fixed with a slight ding. Sometimes you can just shift the engine over, but seldom is that a permanent fix. Braking while turning will provide some surprises if not properly clearanced. I've seen washers installed on the drivers side motor mount to jack it up a bit, that works. I still prefer the ding in the tube.
 

drive_55_not

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A couple more choices ...

I installed the MBRP headers with full 3" Flowmaster Outlaw exhaust on my 2018 w/A10,, They were easy to install and no clearance issues..

Back in the day the Dynatech headers were a good,, but now pricy choice for the then new 'Yote ..

For an economical choice,, a lot of guys on the 6G
forum like the Texas Speed headers ...

One thing to pay attention to is how the midpipe connects,, If you are lowered you may wanna go with a slip fit over a bolt up connection like the Dynatech. Those connections hang under the frame rail and will drag over speed bumps ..


.
 

Pentalab

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Whatever U get, Make sure they are ceramic coated. I use JBA titanium ceramic coated LT's and catted H on my 2010 4.6 L. No clearance issues to steering shaft, even with the eng lowered 1/4" via the new steeda eng mounts. Toss the oem eng mounts, too mushy. I can put my fingers on any of the 8 x primaries after a romp, with blower on, and don't burn my fingers. Reduced eng bay temps by 30+ deg F. Hi-flow cats are below seats, instead of at base of eng bay, further reducing eng bay temps. Primaries are the coolest thing beneath the hood. The rest is hot.
 

RavenGT

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My main go is sound if it makes more HP, then bonus. Any advice would be great.

Your main goal is sound? Then a set of axlebacks is cheaper and easier and can give you all the sound you want.
 

Grabber Blue 5.0

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The Kooks midlengths are the way to go. As already mentioned they won't cause any o2 issues especially if you want to run E85.
 

Laga

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According to this video, it's the placement of the O2 sensors in the header collectors that can make all the difference.

It’s just not with E85. When you install a separate wide band O2 sensor, the directions point out to put it pointing upwards on the outside.
 

travelers

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When I installed the ARHs on my '11 GT it did get louder as I did it with OR H pipe. I also have the GT500 mufflers that are 3 years old and it sounds great. No drone at all. Now when I installed the 2.3 super charger that also made a difference and the same mufflers are now 7 years old and still sound good. Oh and I also spent the money on Swain ceramic coating.
 

ghunt81

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I've never cared for Pypes just because I know their headers are copies of other name brands, AND they charge more than the no-name chinese knockoffs. Maybe the fitment is a little better but judging from what I've seen of the fitment on their axle backs that I've seen on people's cars, I'm not so sure about that.

As an aside, I chose my JBA's specifically because they came with an H pipe. I just do not care for the raspy high pitched tone of X pipes, which most Coyotes seem to have on them.
 

MrAwesome987

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I've never cared for Pypes just because I know their headers are copies of other name brands, AND they charge more than the no-name chinese knockoffs. Maybe the fitment is a little better but judging from what I've seen of the fitment on their axle backs that I've seen on people's cars, I'm not so sure about that.

As an aside, I chose my JBA's specifically because they came with an H pipe. I just do not care for the raspy high pitched tone of X pipes, which most Coyotes seem to have on them.
I did not realize the Pypes were knock offs of other brands when I was looking, but the ones I got for my car look fantastic, and fitment was perfect. If Pypes can afford to sell the same thing for almost half the price as other brands, then the other brands need to get off their high horse and bring the prices to a more reasonable level. I would buy Pypes again.
 

ghunt81

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Pypes can sell them for that much less because other companies have to actually design their headers, and some are USA made...Pypes just copies them, and makes them in China.

My JBA's were made in Mexico but at least they were actually designed by JBA.
 

86GT351

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Any will help. Overall outcome will depend on supporting mods also. On a stock based car they will not give a huge performance gain. On a power adder car they will allow the power adder to perform more efficiently with proper tuning.
 

RED09GT

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If I had an 11-14, first thing I'd do is get rid of the necked down section of H-pipe.
You don't see dyno tests in magazines for that as they'd rather sell you a $1200 set of headers.
 

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