Luillo's 2013 Shelby Build thread

Discussion in '2007+ Mustang GT500 Tech' started by luillo, Dec 12, 2020.

  1. luillo

    luillo forum member

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    This car is a beast now. I just played a little bit with a Hellcat and completely SMOKED his ass in 2nd gear pull and 3rd next. The guy and his girlfriend slowed down and pulled their other set of keys saying that he wasn't riding with the red key. I told my wife to shout that we only have ONE key and is all out 100% or non. We all laughed but I think he knew the extra 200 HP might of not been enough. I pulled like 2-3 cars by the time i was shifting into 3rd gear on street tires.

    I cant not imagine once i finish my rear end with 3.73 instead of the 4.10s i was planning and put some good wide sticky tires.
     
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  2. LarryJM

    LarryJM forum member

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    I test drove a black key Hellcat and they are no different then a 4500 lbs Scat Pack. Roadkill had one with the 1320 wide body version. It was doing mid 13's Demon parts and all. I like Roadkill as those guys remind me of me when I was 16 and my first car.
     
  3. luillo

    luillo forum member

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    Yeah, I’m not too familiar with Mopar but I can’t wait to have my car ready for some 1/8 mile fun and test against any of those cars available at the track. Almost all the owners I have meet they hype the car too much but non of them want to play when possible.

    Once I have the rear end, transmission, wheels and tires I will see how they stand against mine


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  4. Pentalab

    Pentalab forum member

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    What do you mean by 8.8 built rear end, yet using a 9" housing ?
    The Eaton 8.8" Tru-trac LSD comes in 2 x versions, normal, and HD. The normal version comes with 3 x PINION side gears ( 3 per side). Normal version uses 31 spline axles.

    The HD version uses 4 x (FOUR) PINION side gears (4 x per side). The LSD box is also heavier duty. The HD version is used when the 60' times are down around 1.4 seconds. The HD version HAS to use 33 spline axles..and you can only get those from either Moser...or Strange Engineering. The story I got was the Strange Engineering 33 spline axles are slightly stronger..and also slightly cheaper.

    VMP in Florida sells both versions of the tru-trac.
    https://www.vmpperformance.com/Eaton-31-Spline-TrueTrac-Differential-for-05-14-8.8-solid-axle

    https://www.vmpperformance.com/Eaton-33-Spline-TrueTrac-Differential-for-05-14-8.8-BUILT-solid-axle

    (oem axles are 31 spline)
     
  5. luillo

    luillo forum member

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    Thanks for that info. I have always been confused because it looked like there was 2 trutracs with different prices but I never could find in-depth info.

    My 8.8 housing has 9” ends welded.


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  6. Pentalab

    Pentalab forum member

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    Considering your power dif
    For your drag race application, and the amount of rwhp / tq you have, and sticky tires, the meager price difference between the 2 x versions of the tru-trac is a bargain. $729.00 - $584.93 = $144.07

    That will probably be the best $144.07 you will have spent.

    Just remember, with either version, use 75W-140 dino oil... like Lucas etc. NO synthetic, and NO friction modifiers.

    Another item worth having is a catch can for the rear axle. Without it, you will be puking oil out the overflow vent.

    I used one of these on my 2010 GT. https://bobsmachine.com/product/mustang-2005-14-axle-reservoir-kr-style/

    On a 2 post lift, with all 4 x wheels dangling down, there is plenty of slack on the supplied interconnecting hose. Expensive, but it's built like a tank, and all heliarc welded.
     
  7. luillo

    luillo forum member

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    That’s the tank I am planing to buy. Currently I bought the 31 spline kit lethal sell with the 9” ends. I got the rear end with the 9” welded already and the axels from a friend. I thought about upgrading but I guess I will once I blow this set of axles, lol.


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  8. luillo

    luillo forum member

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    Well, after 5,300 miles on the gates belt it started to make noises. I checked the pulleys and there are a few idlers with a very minor play on them but nothing I could attribute the belt issue to. I flipped the belt to swap the side that looks to have ware on it and worked for a few miles and started to make noise again. I will be buying the BPS pulley kit and a new belt to make sure everything is good to go.
     
  9. luillo

    luillo forum member

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    Well, the IC water pump is dead and I don't want to just replace it, I want to upgrade the system.
    The plan is to add the following:
    1. EMP Stewart pump with -20an fitting
    2. J2 Fab S197 Bay IC tank
    3. Fischer Motorsport Hot Water Mod
    4. KB Bigun IC with big fitting single pass -20an or -16an
    5. Fragola houses 1-1/4" Diameter
    Now the issue is that I will need to hurry up and relocate my battery to the trunk. Below is a drawing with what i have in mind and i need help with the fuses and amperage. Please let me know if you see something out of normal or if any of the items I put together would not work. The only item i am not sure is the 300 amp fuse I have at the battery protecting the main run of 1/0 wire to the front of the car, i hope is not too big. Pretty much I have the following for the relocation:

    1. Taylor battery case
    2. 1/0 positive and negative wire
    3. 300 amp ANL ceramic fuse at the positive battery
    4. 300 amp positive distribution block at engine bay
      1. 4 gauge wire to starter
        1. 100 amp ceramic fuse
      2. 2 gauge wire to alternator
        1. 200 amp ceramic fuse
      3. 4 gauge wire to main fuse box

    [​IMG]

    Again guys, any advice is welcome and thanks!!!!
     
  10. DieHarder

    DieHarder Member

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    Ensure ground cables are in good condition. Use heavy duty gauge cables- short. I would recommend an 2 gauge in back and at least an 04 up fUpgrade your ground
     
  11. luillo

    luillo forum member

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    I will try to fit 1gauge for grounds. I’m currently concern about what size fuse to use on alternator and starter because of the larger wire


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  12. DieHarder

    DieHarder Member

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    Fat fingers. O2 in back. 04 engine ground or better up front. If your voltage is low add another 04 from a mounting bolt on the alternator case back to the passenger strut tower. That should take care of business.

    looks like you’re going to have one hell of a system there.
     
  13. DieHarder

    DieHarder Member

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    Larger wire will simply spread/carry load better, run cooler (I.e. offers better connectivity, lower resistance). Doesn’t have anything to do with sizing fuses. Size fuses for the loads expected plus a little headroom.
     
  14. luillo

    luillo forum member

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    That’s the rout I’m taking. Installing an ANL 200 amp for the alternator which is what’s in the current stock wire and another 100 for the starter. I’m adding the 300 amp at the battery just in case something happens and also for future alternator upgrade. Once I have a bigger load with the fans and possible fuel system I will most likely add a Nations 270 amp alternator.

    Thanks


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  15. DieHarder

    DieHarder Member

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    That’s some kind of overkill in my book (not sure you’ll ever need that much power) but okay by me. Just ensure you maintain the connections every once in a while (1-2 yrs) depending on environment and salt exposure. Get yourself a digital voltage gauge to monitor the system and if you notice voltage dropping start with grounds.
     
  16. jewc75

    jewc75 S197 Junkie S197 Team Member

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    Does your track require an external battery shut off switch? Something to consider while routing wires.
     
  17. luillo

    luillo forum member

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    I don’t think my track cares at all. The first time I ran the car i needed a helmet and they say “have at it”.

    I only do test and tune thing for now


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  18. DieHarder

    DieHarder Member

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    By your graphic I would add two more grounds. ((Not sure if/where the ground junction block connects to the body/frame.)) 1) A 2 gauge ground from the ground junction block to the passenger strut tower. 2) A 4 gauge ground from an alternator case ground/mounting bolt back to the passenger strut tower ground. This will ensure you have the same ground potential end-to-end for the charging circuit and maximum output from the alternator. Just went thru this goat rope myself. See Finally found the cause of my low voltage...Beware, the all important grounds thread....Easy to find/fix once you know it's there. Just have to understand the alternator ground back thru the block may be at a different potential (i.e. the case of the alternator may be at a different ground potential) due to the inherent resistance differences of the physical metal connections (back to ground) vs. a direct ground wire to the body/frame ground at the passenger strut tower... which will leave you scratching your head why the Sam Hill is my alternator output low?
     
  19. luillo

    luillo forum member

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    Thanks for the info. I totally forgot to mention that I will upgrade all the engine grounds to one size bigger or at least 4 gauge. But all that info is great, thanks.


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    DieHarder likes this.
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