Luillo's 2013 Shelby Build thread

Discussion in '2007+ Mustang GT500 Tech' started by luillo, Dec 12, 2020.

  1. DieHarder

    DieHarder Senior Member

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    Looks like a nice setup. Interested in how you go about routing those cables.... When you assemble the connections if you decide to crimp any of them I'd recommend Soldering/Tinning the ends of the cables first; then slide the ends on; then Solder (fill the connector ends w/solder) using a torch (be careful not to burn the insulation). Then crimp the eye connectors and finish with the heat shrink tube. Soldering (in addition to crimping) will provide the best/longest lasting connection possible but you're going to have use a torch to get it hot enough. No way even a large electric heat gun will work - I tried. Recommend practicing on one of those crimp connectors and short piece of cable to get the technique down prior to assembling the main connections.

    If your battery cables are the screw style I'd still solder/tin the ends to make them stiff before inserting them into the ends and tightening down the screws.
     
  2. luillo

    luillo forum member

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    Finally got to finish this phase. Took me too long (3 months) because if many changes i made a long the project. I never liked how the setup was initial, therefore, i had to buy new parts and do new layouts. I think is good now but obviously I will look for better ways if needed. How the setup ended I have everything hidden and protected from heat. This was almost a full re-do of wire loom and some of the wiring from Ford. Ford decided to bundle up everything during the routing of the cables. It wasn't an easy swap of wire gauge as I thought.

    Below are the original materials:
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    As you can see, I routed the wires inside the car. This would have been better outside but luckily; I had enough room. Tight via the door sill but fit safe.

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  3. luillo

    luillo forum member

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    Next:
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    Looks like some battery damage from prior owner and I never noticed until now.
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    The images above are from the first layout. I change that and rout all power and ground wire through the side opening in the firewall. The image below is the reason why i changed the layout. I didn't want to have that huge distribution block on the front. The new, red and smaller distribution block is now hidden in the cabin air filter location.

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    Below is the new fuse block. I change the layout here also because this block works with Mega fuses which are slow blow versus the ANL that are a little faster blow.
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    DieHarder likes this.
  4. luillo

    luillo forum member

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    Here is the wiring i had to build. I bought the original plug and rout the wire to the front passenger strut with a mega fuse 100 amp.
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    With the EPS built and the alternator wire upgrade done i was able to eliminate this huge bundle of wire.
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    Below is my new alternator fuse holder and it penetrates through the firewall.
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    Below is my 1/0 AWG for the alternator and you can see the new EPS conected.
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    golkhl likes this.
  5. luillo

    luillo forum member

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    I forgot where I put the ground wire upgrade, but I will find it or take new pictures. This was a pain in the ass that I would not try ever, lol. The car runs great and never noticed any issues. I did a few hard runs to get the car hot and then checked the wiring. All good cold no resistance issues at all.
     
    MrBhp likes this.
  6. DieHarder

    DieHarder Senior Member

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    Nice work there. I would have routed them inside as well.
     
  7. luillo

    luillo forum member

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    Now the dilemma I have is how and where to route the IC/HE/Ice task hoses; there is not much room to play.

    So far, I think the best way for my application is from Intercooler to Heat Exchanger to the Ice Tank and finally back to the Intercooler. T

    This way if I want to use ice it will be most beneficial during track days, and during normal driving (street) the water still be good seating the ice tank once it comes from the Heat exchanger for a few seconds.

    The issue is that there is not much space to rout the 1" to 1.25" hoses. I also want to keep the IC pump close to the system to avoid long house routs. I will be looking to reposition the pump to the passenger side under the fender.
     
  8. DieHarder

    DieHarder Senior Member

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    Depends on your setup. From my experience not really that much room down there to work with. I mounted my IC pump to the bottom of the driver's frame rail just ahead of the tire. Of course I'm only running 3/4 lines but my cooling needs aren't as stringent as yours. It may make it easier (routing wise) if you invest some nylon braided line and hose fittings. I did but found I didn't need them so may put them on the market or use them for another application. Not sure yet.
     
  9. luillo

    luillo forum member

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    If you have posted your IC pump install in the net, then i think i have seen it. Thats maybe the way i will go but now i am seriously considering the chassis work before venturing on this next phase of cooling upgrade.

    I will be installing the RSM tubular front end and i found a shop that has done those already so is just a matter of scheduling and me taking the engine out.
     
  10. luillo

    luillo forum member

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    Guys, I have been considering the Super Snake wide body rear only for a while now.

    The reason I’m thinking about it is to add more tires width to the rear and the esthetic of the rear wide body. Not looking for the added weight but I don’t think is too much anyways.

    I believe Shelby doesn’t sell this kit any more but if I was to find one, what are your thoughts?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
  11. Midlife Crises

    Midlife Crises Senior Member

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    I think a Mustang can use all the tire you can get under it. The wide body looks a hell of a lot better than having the tires poke out.
     
  12. luillo

    luillo forum member

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  13. Pentalab

    Pentalab forum member

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    A 305/315 will easily fit..and not poke out..with 11" wide rims. DiMora put MPSS in 335 on 11.5" wide rear rims on his 08 GT..and they don't poke either. He had his 10" rear rims widened to 11.5". Search for..'operation steamroller' here on S-197.
     
    luillo likes this.
  14. Pentalab

    Pentalab forum member

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    Last edited: Feb 21, 2022
    dark steed likes this.
  15. luillo

    luillo forum member

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    Well guys, I pulled the trigger on the Shelby Rear kit. Next will be to research what Forgestar can do for me. I will need to find the specifications Shelby recommends for the rear wheels (Off-set, back space).

    I know they recommend 20x13 which is what I will be aiming for. I also forgot to mention that I got this in my storage to go with the kit once I do the installation. The red Cobra badges are 2009 originals. I still need to search for a better trunk red Cobra.

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  16. luillo

    luillo forum member

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    I never seen Dimora's thread, but I have all those items to accept wider wheels. the bump stop relocation with the plate and FRPP lowered bump stops with all new insulations.
     
  17. luillo

    luillo forum member

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    Finally Arrived. Started the talks with Mustang Manny for installation.
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    golkhl likes this.
  18. luillo

    luillo forum member

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    Finish running all the 1" lines, relocating the pump, and installing the engine bay tank. All good but I am curious if I need to install a T-hose line to create a by-pass. Coolant is flowing well no issues with foam but the temp is just the same as usual, 30 deg over outside temp. I don't know if a bypass improves the flow and adds better cooling to the system.

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    This was a lot of work routing the hoses but drove the car and is all very good.
     
    jewc75 likes this.
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