Missfire 2006 ford mustang v6

[Kevin712]

Misfire on cylinder 3 and 4 after changing crankshaft pulley : basically changed the pulley and started driving and would misfire randomly so I changed the coil wires and still the dam issue so today I changed the fuel injectors for those positions and still misfire any clues ? Only throws codes for cylinder 3 and 4 misfire as well as random cylinder

 

[86GT351]

Misfire on cylinder 3 and 4 after changing crankshaft pulley : basically changed the pulley and started driving and would misfire randomly so I changed the coil wires and still the dam issue so today I changed the fuel injectors for those positions and still misfire any clues ? Only throws codes for cylinder 3 and 4 misfire as well as random cylinder

Possibly damaged the Crank Position Sensor.

 

[GriffX]

AFAIK the crankshaft position sensor is right at the pulley, I would check it.

 

[Kevin712]

This is what it looks like rn do you think I should just change it to see if it’ll run better ?

 

[GriffX]

Did you remove the sensor during install? (I would do so)
Is the cog wheel on the new pulley identical to old? It looks a bit miss aligned?
Before throwing more parts at it, I would re install the old pulley.

 

[Eman]

Why did you change the pulley?

 

[Kev555]

I think the sensor wheel sits too far in? Compare the old pulley to the new one.

 

[Kevin712]

Essentially my serpentine belt was giving me some sounds so I changed it and the sound went away but then I noticed the pulley was wobbling more than usual so I thought it was time to change it so I took it to my uncles mechanic shop and they changed it for me and next thing you know I start driving home and it started misfiring, but the thing is I’m pretty sure we threw away the old pulley so I’m kinda cooked on that part but I’m essentially going to undo it and torque it again to see if that fixes it does anyone know the specific torque for it I read online that it’s 80ft lbs but just want to make sure I’ll end up doing that tomorrow and keep you guys updated

 

[Eman]

Like every other part most are faulty, defective or made wrong. I'd suspect the pulley of it has the tone wheel on it and the problem began as soon as the part was changed.

 

[GriffX]

so I’m kinda cooked on that part but I’m essentially going to undo it and torque it again to see if that fixes it does anyone know the specific torque for it I read online that it’s 80ft lbs but just want to make sure I’ll end up doing that tomorrow and keep you guys updated

Ford Workshop Service & Repair Manuals - fordrepair.info - 2005 Mustang A Engine - 4.0l Sohc Crankshaft pulley

Ford Workshop Service and Repair Manuals, 2005 Mustang Workshop Manuals Powertrain Engine A Engine 4.0L SOHC IN-VEHICLE REPAIR Crankshaft Pulley

www.iihs.net

 

[Kevin712]

Ended up retorquing and didn’t fix so bought an oem pulley from ford and it worked like a charm 194,000 miles and still going strong, thanks bros

 

[Eman]

Any time you change a part today it's usually worse than the part you took off or causes a new problem. Glad you got it fixed.

 

[86GT351]

Ended up retorquing and didn’t fix so bought an oem pulley from ford and it worked like a charm 194,000 miles and still going strong, thanks bros

View attachment 113736

This is why even though more costly, OEM parts are always suggested. Working at a dealer in Sefvice, I see it all the time. People have independent shops do work and the car still is not fixed. Ends up being the aftermarket parts. I did not believe this was that much of an issue until I started in the dealer world! Ends up costimng more and wasting time as well.

 

[GlassTop09]

This is why even though more costly, OEM parts are always suggested. Working at a dealer in Sefvice, I see it all the time. People have independent shops do work and the car still is not fixed. Ends up being the aftermarket parts. I did not believe this was that much of an issue until I started in the dealer world! Ends up costimng more and wasting time as well.

100% agree w\ this............FWIW, even down to most of the bolts\fasteners used to mount\secure the OEM components when clamping tq forces are important\imperative to keeping stuff from coming loose\in proper position once torqued.

Yes, OEM Ford stuff is generally more expensive to buy..........especially bolts\fasteners due to the way Ford packages these (mostly meant for dealerships to assist w\ inventory costs management........why these are usually packaged in groups........usually 4 count per package.....), but I've known for quite some time (due to being associated w\ my Dad's auto garage & body shop business growing up) that if you want to really do a job once & be done w\ it for the foreseeable future, if you can afford them.......OEM warranty-certified replacement parts\fasteners are the go to parts to use, regardless of the brand or platform.

The buy once, cry once phrase is very appropriate here.

My 2 cents.........................

 

[GriffX]

Depends on the part. If you can buy them from the OEM manufacturer, parts are usually in good quality. Mercedes wants ridiculous prices up to 10 times more than the not branded part. TRW caliper 50$, same with engraved star 500$.
Driveshaft flex disk from SGF 40$, via Mercedes 120$. And there are the small parts, O-ring 10$ instead of 10 ct, M14 bolt 20$......