Need desperate help!!!

[BlueChappy]

Looking for some mechanical help.

My car started to bog down hard and it threw the codes you see in the pictures. From other threads I see that the alternator can give bad diodes causing the codes. I changed it and still had the problem. I changed the Cam Positioning Sensor on Bank 1 and it’s still there… anyone have any ideas what else it might be?

I appreciate any and all help.

 

[Dallas281]

Well start with the basics, have you disconnected the battery for a bit so it wipes the codes and do the codes come back? You changed the alternator for a brand new one correct? Are your grounds clean? Next, you need air, fuel, spark and compression. The motor is getting lean and misfiring. Have you checked or replaced your spark plugs and fuel filter yet? Have you checked/replaced your air filter, cleaned your maf? Have you touched your throttle body at all? Have you done a compression test yet? Once you know the health of the motor then we can start crossing things off..

 

[redfirepearlgt]

More info would help. Year, engine, mileage, what you were doing when driving it, noises heard...

Guessing with nothing more than codes and assuming its a Coyote given its calling out "intake cam sensor" and "intake camshaft timing over advanced" you are looking at a mechanical failure of the intake cam phaser system on bank 1 passenger side. 4.6L 3V engines are SOHC configured where as 5.0L Coyotes are DOHC configured. This could be the phaser, phaser proportional control valve, internal cam phaser filter, or anything related to that mechanical system directly.

IMHO if this were related to erratic voltage issues there would be more erratic codes popping up and not codes so specific to one system. If this were airflow related you would see lean codes on both banks and not just bank 1. Your STFT's and LTFT's on bank 2 likely will look normal if you scan them. Additionally if is possible that when you initially start the car it will idle fine, but then start laboring on bank 1 again within 30 seconds after startup or after a light engine rev. A light knock sound may also be heard. If such is the case shut the engine off because this is valve to piston interference caused due to the mistiming issue. Observe LTFT1 and STFT1. Chances are they will be way off compared to normal readings on bank 2. This further would conclude that the issue is specific to bank 1 and that anything common to both banks would not be suspect I.E. throttle body, fuel pump, alternator, MAF, vacuum issues, intake issues, etc. It will be specific to bank 1 given the brief info you have provided.

FYI - Don't confuse this with Spark advance timing if this is the case. It is mechanical timing of the cam to the crank that is controlled by the cam phasers (2 on each head on coyotes, 1 intake, 1 exhaust) not the spark timing that the codes are pointing at.

 

[Dino Dino Bambino]

I'm guessing he has a 4.6 3V since he's posted in this tech section.
The most likely causes of the cam timing being off on bank 1 (passenger side) are either a bad VCT solenoid, a broken cam phaser, or a failed timing chain tensioner.
A cam phaser that's bad enough to trigger cam timing codes would also produce some knocking, particularly when the engine's hot. If you aren't hearing any knocking at the front end of the passenger side valve cover, that's less likely to be the problem.
A failed timing chain tensioner would cause the chain to rattle, particularly on cold start up and at low rpm when you load the engine.
If your engine isn't making any noises at all, start by replacing the VCT solenoid. While you have the valve cover off, you'll be able to inspect the cam phaser. Take a photo of it straight from the front, and another at a 90 degree angle from the side, and post them here for us to see.

 

[BlueChappy]

So I have a 2005 GT. 4.6v, 146k miles.

I went into a store, came out, started it, heard a slight valve tap. Very low volume. I pulled out of the parking lot, and it was stumbling on itself. It was like it was choking. But after a minute or two of limping it home, it started to red normally. Still some hesitation but very little at this point.

i came home, pulled the codes, and went to work. After reading the forums, I changed the alternator. I don’t know if it was bad, but O’Reilly’s changed it for me since it was under warranty. I also bought and changed the cam positioning sensor on bank 1 (passenger side). I started it up and it did the same thing. I didn’t want to run it to see if it would go back to normal after a while in case something big was happening.

 

[BlueChappy]

Well start with the basics, have you disconnected the battery for a bit so it wipes the codes and do the codes come back? You changed the alternator for a brand new one correct? Are your grounds clean? Next, you need air, fuel, spark and compression. The motor is getting lean and misfiring. Have you checked or replaced your spark plugs and fuel filter yet? Have you checked/replaced your air filter, cleaned your maf? Have you touched your throttle body at all? Have you done a compression test yet? Once you know the health of the motor then we can start crossing things off..

so, when I changed my alternator, I cleaned my throttle body. I also changed my CAI filter.

 

[redfirepearlgt]

I'm guessing he has a 4.6 3V since he's posted in this tech section.
The most likely causes of the cam timing being off on bank 1 (passenger side) are either a bad VCT solenoid, a broken cam phaser, or a failed timing chain tensioner.
A cam phaser that's bad enough to trigger cam timing codes would also produce some knocking, particularly when the engine's hot. If you aren't hearing any knocking at the front end of the passenger side valve cover, that's less likely to be the problem.
A failed timing chain tensioner would cause the chain to rattle, particularly on cold start up and at low rpm when you load the engine.
If your engine isn't making any noises at all, start by replacing the VCT solenoid. While you have the valve cover off, you'll be able to inspect the cam phaser. Take a photo of it straight from the front, and another at a 90 degree angle from the side, and post them here for us to see.

I lost cam phaser on my 05. Did not have to be hot or even warm to cause the issue. Valve interference noise arose right after throttle decel after throttle up of some nature. Simply started and left to idle the car would sit and run for an hour with no issues. Rev the engine one time and the infamous interference tap/knock would return...sometimes with codes generated, sometimes not. Def loss of power. Replacement of same resolved the issue.

Maybe its the scanner indicating "intake cam" that is causing confusion given the 3V has no intake cam...it has a conventional cam. From recollection my codes did not specify intake they simply called out cam. Either way as I mentioned the system as a whole is suspect. Determining what specific mechanical device is the failure be it phaser, prop valve, a failed banjo bolt, a filter in this system (they are on the coyotes not the 3v's) is likely the issue as I mentioned.

 

[07 Boss]

Definitely sounds like a phaser issue. I went through that and swapping phasers and retiming the engine solved my issues.