Nitrous Guys, Input on Cutout Issue

[psfracer]

First the easy stuff--some as previously mentioned:

75 shot, keep stock plug gap.
Verify bottle pressure is 950 psi. System will work terrible if only at 800 psi for example.
Check the ground for the fuel selonoid. Did you verify it is even opening? A week ground will cause the selonoid to not function properly. Sounds like its not when you mention hardly any fuel is coming out, and by changing the fuel jet it didn't make a difference.

Have you monitored your A/F while spraying?

Now, when I ran nitrous 4 years ago, with the stock converter, at 125, the converter would lock/unlock on the big end, causing the car to fall flat on its face. Is it possible that is what you are experiencing?

 

[Corpo]

The zex nmu is a single ground for both solenoids. Possible still though.

 

[3VPOWA]

Is your window switch reading the correct rpm at idle ? Not close, I mean exactly ? Which wire you tapping into to get your signal ?

Using the same wire I tapped into for my Raptor Shift light on one of the COP plugs.

Do you have a "fuel pressure switch" on rail,
could be dropping when system fires.

What you do mean by "fuel pressure switch on rail"? Do you mean the adapter for the fuel line for the nitrous? If so, then yes, that's where it taps off at.

How is your fuel filter? Possibly something plugging up the solenoid. Or maybe a solenoid failure. Soo many things can be the cause

I know. That's what's so frustrating about it.

Im gonna say its the fuel noid. Can you get at them on the zex kit? Need to pull it apart and see if there is a chunk of shit in there.

I'll have to pull the box apart to take a look. I'll probably hold off on it, though. I remember when pulling the nozzle out of the intake a small amount of fuel being in it. So it possibly isn't a fuel issue, I'm not 100% sure.

First the easy stuff--some as previously mentioned:

75 shot, keep stock plug gap.

Verify bottle pressure is 950 psi. System will work terrible if only at 800 psi for example.

Bottle heater didn't work last night. I feel like a dumbass saying this, especially since it's been said in this thread numerous times, but I'm not sure what the pressure was all night. After doing a lot of reading/searching/etc, I'm thinking it just might possibly be too low of bottle pressure causing the surging issue.

Like I said earlier, the car ran fine when it would "cut out", so I'm wondering if it was dumping fuel into the intake but no nitrous when it would surge. Before I run it again I'm making sure the damn bottle heater works and I'll have my nitrous pressure gauge hooked up as well as a gauge on the bottle.[/QUOTE]

Check the ground for the fuel selonoid. Did you verify it is even opening? A week ground will cause the selonoid to not function properly. Sounds like its not when you mention hardly any fuel is coming out, and by changing the fuel jet it didn't make a difference.

Ground is incorporated into the Zex NMU. Only one ground wire comes out of the box.

Have you monitored your A/F while spraying?

No...

Now, when I ran nitrous 4 years ago, with the stock converter, at 125, the converter would lock/unlock on the big end, causing the car to fall flat on its face. Is it possible that is what you are experiencing?

Car is a manual, so I don't think that's the issue.



I do want to thank everyone for your advice thus far. I'm definitely going to work through all of the suggestions before using it again and hopefully one of them will remedy the problem.

 

[07 procharger]

Not trying to be mean...but you are going to hurt your car if you keep running it like this. "Cuts" while spraying can be plugs melting, or fuel cutting..either way its a lean condition that you dont want... trust me.

You need to know what your bottle pressure is...you really do! And I would not spray without a wideband and a window switch...but i know lots of guys dont.

Question...your TCS isin't activated while you spray is it?

 

[TheKurgan]

Using the same wire I tapped into for my Raptor Shift light on one of the COP plugs.

Zex box doesn't like the COP signal. Polarity is not right. I would go with the negative injector wire. At least that's what I had to do to get an exact rpm reading. Comp also told me the same thing.

I'm 99% sure this is your problem.

 

[3VPOWA]

Not trying to be mean...but you are going to hurt your car if you keep running it like this. "Cuts" while spraying can be plugs melting, or fuel cutting..either way its a lean condition that you dont want... trust me.

You need to know what your bottle pressure is...you really do! And I would not spray without a wideband and a window switch...but i know lots of guys dont.

Question...your TCS isin't activated while you spray is it?

Yes, I know I'm a dumbass for doing it.

I'm checking the plugs today to make sure I didn't burn them up.

TCS definitely isn't activated when spraying. I've got myself into a habit that when I start the car I turn TCS off immediately. I have a window switch as well (Zex) that's set from 3200 - 6100 RPM, and a wideband is next as well as fuel pressure.

I'm not spraying it again until I get everything completed.

Zex box doesn't like the COP signal. Polarity is not right. I would go with the negative injector wire. At least that's what I had to do to get an exact rpm reading. Comp also told me the same thing.

I'm 99% sure this is your problem.

Seriously? I thought I remembered reading that somewhere but couldn't find it again. Dumb question, but which color is the negative on the injector? Is it like the COP plugs where the negative are all the same color?

 

[TheKurgan]

Yes, I know I'm a dumbass for doing it.
Seriously? I thought I remembered reading that somewhere but couldn't find it again. Dumb question, but which color is the negative on the injector? Is it like the COP plugs where the negative are all the same color?

On the injector wires, the negative wire is a different color on every injector. On mine the positive wire is red. Like they say, a pic is worth a 1000 words...

Had the same problem on the dyno. You could see the drop in HP when it cut out.

 

[5.0lightning]

Had this same problem, after I swapped to the injector negative wire it solved the problem. Mine actually ran fine on the 75 shot from the COP but once I went up to the 125 shot it would spray and cut repeatedly. Let us know if that fixes your problem.

 

[3VPOWA]

On the injector wires, the negative wire is a different color on every injector. On mine the positive wire is red. Like they say, a pic is worth a 1000 words...

Had the same problem on the dyno. You could see the drop in HP when it cut out.

Kick ass. I appreciate it, man! I'll definitely give this a try.

Had this same problem, after I swapped to the injector negative wire it solved the problem. Mine actually ran fine on the 75 shot from the COP but once I went up to the 125 shot it would spray and cut repeatedly. Let us know if that fixes your problem.

Will do!


Also pulled the spark plugs a minute ago. All of them looked fine. Car runs fine n/a as well. This is signal wire is probably the issue then.

 

[QWKSNKE]

First the easy stuff--some as previously mentioned:

75 shot, keep stock plug gap.
Verify bottle pressure is 950 psi. System will work terrible if only at 800 psi for example.
Check the ground for the fuel selonoid. Did you verify it is even opening? A week ground will cause the selonoid to not function properly. Sounds like its not when you mention hardly any fuel is coming out, and by changing the fuel jet it didn't make a difference.

Agree with the above.

For me though, my cars always ran best between a 1000 and 1100 psi pressure.
Also, I don't know why i have seen in this thread but nitrous does not need any spark plug gap adjustment. You would have to be a very large shot (250+) for that to be considered. Lowering gap adjustment is a boost thing. You do need to look into colder plugs at 125 shot and above though.

 

[3VPOWA]

Just finished changing the RPM signal wire over. Works like a champ now! Thanks, fellas!

 

[psfracer]

All right, glad you got it figured out.

 

[TheKurgan]

Just finished changing the RPM signal wire over. Works like a champ now! Thanks, fellas!

Good deal.

 

[bthornton10]

Now post a video, since you got it running right.

I was thinking about going nitrous but I really want start gathering turbo parts together.