Oil Separator Hoses

1950StangJump$

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Need some opinions on these options . . .

With my Moroso oil separator, it came with shitty, low pressure fuel hoses. When they get hot, you can clearly see them sucking shut under vacuum.

If I step up to high pressure fuel injector hose, they don't suck shut, but they are hard to work with; I am finding it almost impossible to get them fully on the barbs, and they don't cleanly bend around curves.

I can go back to the low pressure stuff and use an inner hose support spring . . . but only from the separator to the intake. The opening at the PCV on the valve cover is too large, and the spring would fall down into it -- so the spring is out for one of the hoses.

So, I thought I would use a brake booster hose. It is specifically made to not suck shut. But, I wonder if it will handle the oil okay? Obviously, it is intended for air and not oil.

Thoughts?
 

lenko

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What I did is buy a MOTORCRAFT KCV166 {#4R3Z6A664BA from Rockauto and cut it to fit the dimensions (length to connections) and affixed it to the separator attached it in the same manner as the OEM breather. I kept the original as a spare in the event I removed the separator. You can also cut the foam type covering to put on the hose on both sides of the separator to make it look like OEM.
 

EBABlacknChrome

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Here is what I did to mine. I wish I could fine this emissions tube by the foot. Rocketcarx had a good idea to use boiling water to shape. I used a heat gun but would not recommend that! I would like to use stainless steel tubing next time.
817046cc41edf1b7d981dea757a5d9e3.jpg
d786897e2cf16bcc3ccce1edc84c21ef.jpg


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eighty6gt

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I... use -10 A/N, black braided

I'll get a photo. I have some tidying up to do, need to buy another length.
 

EBABlacknChrome

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I... use -10 A/N, black braided

I'll get a photo. I have some tidying up to do, need to buy another length.
Look forward to seeing it! Spent hours looking at different options until saying the hell with it. I just wanted to drive it again at that point.

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1950StangJump$

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Thanks for the replies, fellas. Opinions here aside, I just couldn't get a definitive answer on whether brake booster line would stand up to the oil/fuel and PCV fumes.

So, I did a ton of research on different hoses and their ratings. I couldn't find any one hose that had all I wanted . . . and I couldn't find a definitive answer on how hot PCV gases are, given that a hose's rated temp means its other ratings could become null and void.

I concluded I wanted a 1/2" ID fuel/oil rated line with a vacuum rating of at least 24 in/hg and temp rating of 250F+. The PSI was obviously less important, although most fuel/oil hoses seem to rely on that rating. Theoretically, the higher the PSI burst rating, the more sturdy it will be for vacuum also . . . at a cost of being harder to bend and harder to get over the barb fittings.

I ended up with Gates 4219XL. It is rated at 257F degrees and 35PSI. Gates shows it as only 10 in/hg for vacuum for the 1/2" ID. But, one step smaller than 1/2" gets you 24 in/hg, so I suspect the 10 was a conservative number.

Regardless, as you can see from the pictures, I used the spring support in the longest run out of an abundance of caution. This makes the vacuum rating somewhat irrelevant for that part. Since the inlet barb on the Kenne Bell throttle body has a very small opening, I didn't have to worry about the spring being sucked in. Worked out nicely.

On the PCV side of the oil separator, I couldn't use the spring because the PCV opening is so large, and the spring would slide into it. But, I ran only a very small piece of hose based on the position of the separator . . . even if 10 in/hg is accurate and not conservative, it would be very difficult for such a short run to be sucked shut. So far, even when hot, the hose is holding open find when I'm at 26 vacuum on the boost gauge.

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eighty6gt

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That is electrical shrink tube on the end of the -10. I made that end a long time ago. I use a razor blade and you get the plastic crap tube off of the factory fittings, which then work very nice as a push on for the braided. I haven't finished this setup as I need to buy one long length (I spliced two) to go back to the intake elbow from the outlet of the provent 200, and also shorten the inlet side. I got tired of my shitty, dinky, POS non functioning oil separators that are only sold by outfits like JLT etc to make $$, not to actually do anything. The fittings are from ebay to go to hose ends - I am probably going to make my own that will go to A/N. They have NPT on the canister side with an O ring in a groove to seal, and make their own threads as you run them in.

The provent likes staying warm so it doesn't fill up with frozen water/etc. Behind the fan is a good place. I made the bracket, it uses the holes from the enormous gigantic VMP intercooler reservoir that is pointless and that I no longer use. I am building an aluminum canister for the provent to drain into since I generally only summer drive the car. Empty 1x a year. It will also collect from the PCV bubbler system - two independent sides and drains. The bubbler needs a line back to the vaccuum/metered side of the inlet tract.

I took a picture of the inside of the provent but my POS phone didn't keep it, so I'll get that later. It works.



IMG_20181002_205128.jpg IMG_20181002_205142.jpg IMG_20181002_205204.jpg IMG_20181002_205214.jpg
 
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1950StangJump$

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I like the braided stuff . . . a couple years back on a Camaro, I used heat shrink on nylon braided line -- just like you did.

My concern here . . . you need the line to be rated for fuel/oil while still having a high enough vacuum rating to keep from clamping shut when hot and under high vacuum. It could be that there are lots of 'high vacuum' lines capable of handling fuel/oil. But, the manufacturers don't rate and advertise them that way, so it is a guess. If the rubber can't handle fuel/oil, you risk it dissolving over time and ending up in your engine.

The only sure way is to use a fuel/oil rated hose and insert the spring support into it to prevent collapse under vacuum . . . assuming that your setup will not allow the spring to get sucked into the intake or the crankcase.

P.S. The Moroso is catching a bunch of oil . . . and the hose exiting the Moroso and going to the intake has been very clean . . . insinuating that the can is doing its job.
 

eighty6gt

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Description:
This hose is made to resist extreme heat, abrasion and corrosion.
It offers superior flexibility & bending with maximum vacuum service.
Operating temperatures are from -40°F to +350°F.

Application for:
racing fuel, pump gas, fuels with ethanol, alcohol based fuels, diesel, motor oil & coolant etc.
You could use it for your car, motorcycle, marine, mower, and all kinds of automotive, just need to choose the right size of your machine.

Material:
* Outer layer: High quality braided nylon
* Middle layer: 304 stainless steel wire mesh sleeve
* Inner layer: CPE synthetic rubber
 

1950StangJump$

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Fair enough. I'm okay with where mine's at but, out of curiosity, what is the brand/model of the hose you just described?
 

eighty6gt

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Generic garbage from amazon - the Earl's/etc will be even better or actually perform. I don't know whose I'm using, it's in a roll at my speed shop - I just know it's bloody expensive. Looks nice and tidy when it's all done, though.
 

Scott

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I modified the OEM intake and valve cover fittings with a file, hose end finishers and used 10AN stainless hose and fittings with my JLT.

q23byp0.jpg
 

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