Planning clutch job soon, anything I should add?

Discussion in '2011+ Ford Mustang V6 3.7L Tech' started by sarjxxx, Dec 7, 2022.

  1. sarjxxx

    sarjxxx Junior Member

    Planning to do a clutch job soon, wondering if anyone has some advice on any additional work I should go ahead and get done while I've got the trans out? It's a 2011 and over 160k so I'm sure there's some additional maintenance I should probably take care of. I'm thinking trans fluid replacement... any suggestions?

    I've already done the shifter bracket replacement some time ago, and I'm going to be changing to braided clutch line during the process as well.

    Should I consider attempting to open it up and replace synchros/gears, Or is that a mostly unnecessary step?
  2. pass1over

    pass1over I like it LOW

    I've watched a few videos on opening up an MT82, you need a case spreader at least. It doesn't look fun. If I ever need to get internals fixed, I'm just going with a Calimer transmission and be done with it.

    I just did a clutch on mine. Clutch, PP, flywheel, braided clutch line, replace fluid, that's all you need to do. Not sure if rear main seals are a common leaking point on coyotes, but check it while you have trans out and replace if necessary. Inspect u-joints, carrier bearing (if still present) etc for wear and slop, replace if necessary.
  3. JC SSP

    JC SSP Member

    Unless you're having grinding or having engagement issues, I would leave the tranny alone. Not sure what the drain/fill interval recommendations are for the MT82 are, so I would research the owner's manual.

    I have done a drain a fill twice in the 20 years I have owned my little 5.0 coupe. True it has gone through several T-5s in its lifetime, but so far my Liberty Pro-Shifted has held up well... I am currently running a CenterForce D/F clutch, pressure plate and throw-out bearing kit. SFI Billet flywheel, new roller pilot bearing/bushing and updated double lip one-piece rear main seal.

    Lock tight on all bolts, torque to specs, grease clutch fork, T/O bearing (Mine is not hydraulic) and contacting points appropriately. Keep flywheel and disc face super clean. Make sure no wires fall between motor & bellhousing, use the supplied spline alignment tool and tranny should slide in effortlessly.

    Take your time and do an easy break in... then go bang some gears!
  4. 86GT351

    86GT351 forum member

    Contact Lethal Performance or Beefcake racing for your needs
  5. Tizzy

    Tizzy Junior Member

    Pilot bearing. Bread trick to get old bearing out.
  6. pass1over

    pass1over I like it LOW

    I tried all the tricks to getting the pilot bearing out. None worked. Get an inside bearing puller, not worth screwing around with all the other "tricks" and prolonging the job. After 11 years and 195k miles, it wasn't coming out easy.
    Midlife Crises, GlassTop09 and JC SSP like this.
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