procharger or SC?

Discussion in 'Mustang Chit Chat' started by whitmanink, Oct 12, 2021.

  1. whitmanink

    whitmanink Junior Member

    35
    4
    hey guys ,,
    been looking over at the forced induction options,
    i seen a procharger kit on AM ,, but it says it makes like 400 sumthing hp..
    it dont say weather you have the option to change pullys for diffrent psi for more HP?

    anyone that has a supercharger or a procharger ,can you shed some light into this? are only some able to change psi? or none at all?

    i like the flexablilty of a turbo with psi ,, just not the rat nest of tubing that goes with a turbo lol

    point is , i dont wanna drop almost 5 gs to be stuck at a single number for hp
     
  2. teeje

    teeje Member

    Age:
    25
    559
    88
    Just to clarify... a procharger is a brand, not a type of forced induction. They are both types of supercharger. There is a roots style blower (sits on top of engjne) or a centrifugal supercharger which sits in front.


    Annnnyway

    It's user preference. There are certain kits out there that will only let you make so much power. Stock block you would want to stay under 12 psi or so. Any centrifugal I've heard typically sounds loud at idle (doesn't sound bad) and most roots I've heard are quiet at idle and whine pretty good...however..

    I have a kennebell intercooled supercharger and the damn thing sounds like a jet is drying to take off at idle and whines a pretty damn good amount too.

    Sent from my SM-G998U using Tapatalk
     
  3. Dino Dino Bambino

    Dino Dino Bambino I have a red car

    Age:
    58
    3,060
    994
    Most of the popular supercharger brands will have the option of swapping a smaller pulley to increase boost pressure.
    The cleanest installations with the least amount of underhood clutter are the positive displacement blowers (e.g. Edelbrock, Roush, DOB) and the non-intercooled centrifugal superchargers (e.g. Paxton, Vortech). The clutter increases once you add a front mounted intercooler as there are more pipes, but the intercooler will add more power and reduce the risk of engine detonation by significantly lowering the IATs.
    If your engine still has stock connecting rods, you're effectively limited to ~450rwtq or ~500lbft at the crank on a safe 93 octane tune. How much boost you'll need to achieve that will depend on whether you have other midrange torque-enhancing mods such as LT headers.
    If you're a HP junkie, a centrifugal supercharger will deliver the highest HP number as boost increases with rpm. The intercooled HO kits typically deliver ~6psi at 4500rpm and ~10psi at 6500rpm. The downside is that there's very little boost below 3000rpm. You could delete the charge motion control valves from the stock intake manifold to gain additional midrange/higher rpm torque, or install a Ford Performance intake manifold to gain HP at the top end while sacrificing some in the midrange. You could also swap in aftermarket cams to gain HP/TQ above ~5000rpm, but you'll trade away performance below that rpm level.
    If you want instant boost from low rpm and big block like torque, a TVS or twin screw positive displacement supercharger is the way to go.
    Turbos are also a great way to go but the performance is typically in a fairly narrow 3000-6000rpm band, and the turbo itself is typically mounted at the front of the engine with its plumbing taking up a lot of real estate.
    So many choices!
     
  4. whitmanink

    whitmanink Junior Member

    35
    4
    thanks for the correction on the procharger being a brand,, you can see im still kinda new to this stuff lol ,

    anyways ,, i plan on rebuilding the block with better internals , but first wanna get like 12,000 miles out of it before i tear it down (just got the thing , but has 160,000 on her but is running strong..
    with that said , im in the process now and am getting new roller followers and lash adj.. and got new valve and intake gaskets (my pipe is leaking under manifold) and and also wanna change the head gaskets while in there , along with a new timing chain and all the other supporting parts ie.... "vcts ",,ect ect..

    so that should make her happy until a rebuild ,

    but that said i wanna be able to run her safe @ 450rwhp and around 430 tq ,, and than have the option to going 500+ hp after said rebuild,,

    i like the top mounted sc style .. but the side mounted turbo style is the cheaper way into the gate ,,

    i seen a kit on AM go for like $3800 but not sure what it in-tails and limitations ,,,
     
  5. eighty6gt

    eighty6gt forum member

    4,232
    379
  6. whitmanink

    whitmanink Junior Member

    35
    4
  7. AHaze

    AHaze Member

    96
    47
    Positive displacements and centrifugals produce completely different power curves. Think big block vs. small block with big heads/cam/intake.
    Even if they make similar power numbers, the driving experience is completely different. That should be your primary factor in deciding which to get.
     
  8. Dino Dino Bambino

    Dino Dino Bambino I have a red car

    Age:
    58
    3,060
    994
  9. Pentalab

    Pentalab forum member

    4,435
    735
    The PD blower gives you instant boost, bam, right now. IE: you get the big TQ hit at low rpms, like at idle.... (or any rpm). Centrifugals generally develop boost to the square of the RPM. IE: say 8 psi @ 6 krpm.... 2 psi @ 3 krpm......... .5psi @ 1.5krpm...... and .125 psi @ 750 rpm. IMO, that's like buying 1/2 a supercharger. (while on a rant, IMO a convertible is like buying 1/2 a car).

    My small M90 on my 2010 GT (with 7 bar upper grille, K+N filter, Twin 62mm TB, LT's, hi-flow cats) is 5.8 psi right at idle, with gas mashed. On the hwy, it's a bit > 6 psi... like 6.2 psi. The 7 bar upper grille eliminated 2 x 90 deg bends into the oem 'snorkel' that in turn feeds the oem airbox...hence the slight increase in boost when > 50 mph.
     
    DieHarder likes this.
  10. Ryan D

    Ryan D Junior Member

    28
    1
    I'm not there on my budget yet, but I think I saw Jason say he may discontinue complete kits soon. That worries me. I will probably be this time next year before my forged build is ready and my budget up to snuff for a 1,000+ hp kit. Hopefully if he does stop the kits he will continue to provide build lists to match the charger/HP level goal
     
  11. Dino Dino Bambino

    Dino Dino Bambino I have a red car

    Age:
    58
    3,060
    994
    The key component is the intake manifold so I suggest you buy that while it's still available. You can buy all the other components elsewhere as your budget allows, including some used items from a wrecked GT500 to save on cost.
     
    DieHarder likes this.
  12. Ryan D

    Ryan D Junior Member

    28
    1
    Very nice. I'll be sure to do that. Thanks for that tip!
     
  13. Pentalab

    Pentalab forum member

    4,435
    735
    Excellent point. Without the manifold, he is dead in the water.
     
    DieHarder likes this.
  14. eighty6gt

    eighty6gt forum member

    4,232
    379
    I'd only try for 1000 with a sheet metal intake and turbos, on a 4.6
     
  15. DieHarder

    DieHarder Member

    692
    280
    Two things I recommend if you do decide to buy the DOB manifold: 1) Get the insulated option (composite heat barrier). It's an absolute must to keep the IAT's down especially if you're shooting for a 1000 hp. 2) Spring for the anodized option; color? Your choice of course but I went w/black which is what Jason recommends. Looks great and will keep the manifold protected for years to come.

    DOB Supercharger Manifold.jpg IMG-0341.jpg
     
    Tman and crjackson2134 like this.
  16. Ryan D

    Ryan D Junior Member

    28
    1
    Tell me more.
     
  17. eighty6gt

    eighty6gt forum member

    4,232
    379
    Maybe one turbo

    A 1000hp capable blower is stupid expensive and probably takes 100+hp to spin. IMO you'll have to also move a shipload of water around to exchange all that heat, adding weight and complexity.

    The bypass operation is annoying on my 650hp application. A wastegate/bov system would be much nicer.

    1000hp cars are loud, turbo(s) tame the exhaust note.

    The means of which the factory computer adds fuel is annoying also. Power enrichment/etc. I would want to use a terminator x/similar. Probably SD tune so you can blow off to atmosphere, I defer to expert tuners.

    You'll need to build the engine with lower compression and I dont know how 94 would work. E85 would solve the octane/knock problem without spending a billion dollars on race gas.

    I've watched a few people do 1000 hp stuff, it has always, always ended in tragedy. Multiply your budget by 4 times. Do it all yourself or expect $50,000 in labor, if someone quotes you less they will go broke and leave you with garbage.
     
  18. BAD3VLV

    BAD3VLV Junior Member

    25
    13
    I installed a Roush r2300 stage 2 kit on my 2005 gt and some comp 127550 blower cams with the phasers locked and a lund tune. The car had 152,000 miles on it. As long as the car was maintained correctly and you have a good tuner you should be alright.
     
    crjackson2134 likes this.
  1. This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
    By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.